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I'm wanting to get my bf a good sewing machine for Christmas. What's a good decent priced sewing machine I can get for basic leather/fur work? What do the prices usually go?

Hello I am currently attempting to create a bracelet, that has no rivets or buttons keeping the leather bracelet around my wrist. I want to glue two strips of leather back to back with raw sides glued inward so they can not be seen and the finished side exposed. The bracelet is being made for a friend so I'm hoping to make the edges where the ends of each strip meet look like they were finished professionally. Any tips on making sure there is no fraying or shifting of the pieces once I am finished gluing the two strips together? thanks for the help.

Hi everyone! I am planning to buy a sewing machine for a small business that I will start preferably next year. The sewing machines that have been offered to me are the following: 1. Juki DU 141NH 2. Juki DU 1181N 3. Mitsubishi LY2-300 BOB The machine that I need must be able to handle medium to heavy materials (I’ll be using a combination of canvas fabric and leather), as I’ll be making bags (backpack, small pouches and totebags). Also, the machine must be user-friendly and if changes need to be done, the machine parts must be easy to source. Each of the machine is being offered to me at $650.00. So I really need guys your expertise and recommendations as I am very new to this thing so my money and first sewing machine will be worth it! Looking forward for your suggestions. Have a good day everyone!

i bought a Toyota fsg325 inexpensively because was top 10 leather sewing machine according to a web site. definitely for lite leather. i plan on being in this business leisurely for sure and professionally until the end. i want to buy an industrial leather sewing machine and after weighing all of the pros and cons, my #1 choice is a juki DU-1181. i make bags, sheaths, clothing, fetish gear, and anything else that comes to mind. can anyone think of reasons this choice needs reconsideration? can you please offer maybe some limitations to this machine? it seems to have all the bells and whistles but will only cost me $1100.00 lastly, are there others with this capability and in the price range that i should review? thank you all

Ok guys and gals, I had an idea. This could fix a lot of newbie questions (me included). Please play the game to help us novices along. Post a few really good pictures of your machine. And even different feet that you use. Explain what you sew with your machine. Explain a little about what you like about it, and don't like about it. If you have more than one machine to brag on, by all means, share about it too. If you guys are willing to participate, we will have a great thread to point people like me towards. Thanks everyone. Keep having fun.

Recently I responded to a post: Singer 16-88 Sewing Machine Started by SueGy, Feb 11 2015 02:53 PM At the time, I had just taken possession, by way of donation, the above machine make and model. I was attempting to glean information regarding this machine when I found the above post. I discovered that there were perhaps four posts on this forum that made some mention of the machine. I feel that the Singer 16 88 machine deserves a bit more exposure then it has at present. The machine that I have had the pleasure of resurrecting, was born in 1910. It's last owner/user had a sail boat business, and of course used the machine in that capacity. Upon receiving it, I found that it needed a new check spring. The needle plate, and hook had needle marks that prevented thread from passing over the bobbin. In addition the needle to hook timing was improperly set. These problems were easily remedied, and with a new needle 160x23, threaded with #138 thread recommended for this machine by Bob Kovar. I also disassembled the clutch for cleaning. It is mated to a two speed reduction pulley. The clutch is composed of rubber friction disk which mates to a very coarse metal disk to engage the motor output to the machine. The sewing table is manufactured by Beswick mfg. circa 1900. After replacing belts, wiring, and general cleanup on the table, I removed all the machine parts that I could, and placed them in a Sonic cleaner to get rid of the 105 year fabric and oil build up. The only components that worked perfectly were the bobbin winding assembly. I repainted this and also the bed of the Singer 16-88. I would also like to say that putting this machine back into service was very simple. This machine is very easy to work on because of it's design. The average domestic machine is by far more complex. The Singer Class 16 uses a Class 15 (oscillating) Japanese hook, bobbin case, and bobbin. These parts are available everywhere on the planet. Bob Kovar of (Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine) informed me that this machine will sew approx. 20 oz leather. I believe his estimate to be pretty close. The motor mounted onto the Beswick table is of the same vintage, and could use an upgrade. The antique Adams alternating current motor labors at 1/4" thickness of veg tan. If and when I do this upgrade, I will be replacing the drive system with a servo motor. Any suggestions for the servo for this table configuration would be appreciated. After reassembly and adjusting, I was able to successfully sew together two pieces of 7-8 oz. leather as seen in the pics. According to the Singer manual, this machine is capable of 1400 Stitches per Minute in it's present configuration, which is perfect for canvas and sail cloth. My next boat cover will be a breeze. Thanks to Bob Kovar for supplying a check spring, thread, needles, and belts, I am able to enjoy this wonderful pastime without having to stitch everything by hand. I love the look of saddle stitching and the size of the thread, but the punishment on my old hands is the motivation for now using a machine. As you can see in the pictures, the machine stitches are consistent and by my measurement, adjustable from 6-10 SPI. I prefer 6 SPI for most of my leather projects. In addition, I don't seem to have a problem with the presser feet marking the leather. The effect is barely visible on the top stitch. I haven't made any belts with this machine, but it's perfect for this leather thickness for a belt or dog collar. It moves quickly, but with a little practice, and short bursts, it's something that can be managed with the clutch motor setup. I highly recommend this old work horse. If you have any questions regarding the repair of this machine and associated components, perhaps I can answer some of them for you.

Cobra Steve of Leather Machine Co. has put together an informational page about Skiving Machines with a video too! Thanks for sharing, Steve!

I think it is fair to say that most of us would like to have a really nice industrial walking foot sewing machine for our leather craft. However, most of probably can't afford one or justify the cost for our hobby. I have been doing to some hobby leather work for a few years, and I finally decided I wanted to "up my game" and do a little more with my hobby like sewing on backings/liners and burnishing the edges nicer. That's easy, right? Buy a leather burnishing tool, and sew on some backings. What I found out is that hand stitching something as a large as a guitar strap or rifle sling SUCKS! After doing a lot of hand stitching, I decided to get a machine, but alas, I couldn't find a reasonably priced used industrial walking foot sewing machine. While this thread isn't intended to sway folks from a real machine, I just wanted to show what was possible with an inexpensive old Singer. First, I researched for a while to see what old Singer machines were suitable for light duty leather sewing. Seams there were lots of candidates, but the on most available with the easiest to find parts was the Singer 66. Here is a link explaining the history of the Singer 66 http://www.sewalot.com/singer%2066.htm I checked eBay and the local classifieds. Singer 66s were relatively inexpensive, and I saw a lot of youtube videos where folks were sewing lighter leather with Singer 66s. I decided to pick up this gem off a local classified add for 120$. 120$ seamed like a good deal because it was in 100% working order, came with a cabinet, working light, knee lever, and a drawer full of extras. What I have here is number 65 cabinet "This modern sewing cabinet and spacious writing desk has three drawers large enough to hold a complete selection of sewing supplies as well as correspondence and stationery." Example of sewing this is about 7 ounce leather.

Hi, this is my first post on leatherworker! I have an industrial machine, a singer, for very lightweight sewing (I had to order special narrow needles) so I am looking to buy a new machine for sewing thick leather, 5-7oz I have found some good machine heads on ebay, Consew 255B, Singer 211W115, and very old but apparently in good working condition Singer 111W115 (someone I worked for had this exact machine, also old but very beautiful and reliable stitching) My current table and motor are in great condition, the motor is a Tacsew, clutch, 5.8 amp. My question is...possibly a dumb one...but will any/all of these machine heads fit and run with this motor? I read your post about clutch vs servo, but still felt unsure about combining a different head with my existing clutch. Thanks in advance! here is a photo of my motor.

Hello all, I desperately need some expert help!! I make elastic Y-back suspenders in six different colors for children, and I'd like to change the leather patch on the back. Right now, I use a faux leather in three different colors and would like to transition to one color that I can have my company name embossed on. I'm extremely green when it comes to working with genuine leather. I've searched around locally and no one can really help me start from the beginning, which is to determine the best leather to use as a back patch for suspenders. The only recommendation I've been given is to maybe try a veg tan leather. My dilemma with that is this: 1) It's not dyed! Yes I do need a color that matches all six suspender colors, but I have no idea about dyeing leather. I can find a color I think might work on the internet, but it's just a picture. I still need to know what color dye to pick and how to dye it. Can someone please tell me if veg tan is really my only option to get the right color leather needed? I don't have the expertise to do what needs to be done with veg tan and no here seems to either or at least they don't want to help. Any recommendations on how to find more potential colors or someone to dye it for me because me dyeing it isn't an option? 2) As explained to me 2/3 oz veg tan is the lowest weight in that type but it still seems too thick for these suspenders. Would you agree? I need something that can be sewn on a sewing machine but not flimsy. 3) After I've found the right leather and color, I need it to be embossed. Can you please advise the best way to make this happen? People have mentioned laser engraving to me. I've also been told about stamps you can buy. Recommendations? 4) Lastly, I've been told that this is the process I need to follow to reach the end result of the actual back patch (assuming I go with veg tan) : once the leather is bought, have the shape clicked out, dye the shape, emboss/engrave the shape, then put a finish on it. Would you agree? Is the process pretty much the same if it's already dyed (click, emboss, finish)? As a side note, I had a die of the shape professionally made, but I do not have a clicker press. It would be optimal if I can find an appropriate weight leather for suspenders that is already dyed to the right color and would emboss well. Please help!!! Thank you! C Pack

I am wanting to make a breast collar for a barrel racer with angora hair sewn on the bottom side of the shoulder straps (so it hangs below the leather pieces). I’m not sure the best way to go about this, I’ve never worked with angora before. Do I need to buy a hide and sew a strip in between the top and bottom breast collar leather? Or is there a way to sew on locks (with no hide)? Any tips are appreciated! Also, i’m not sure where to buy it? Thanks in advance.

Hey there! I am selling one of my TippMann Boss Sewing Machines! This machine was used for two months and is in perfect condition! The only thing wrong with it is the gear shaft has a few missing teeth (Replacement Part $8.99) I would fix it myself but I am a father of two little ones and do not have the time. One day while working I put too much pressure on the lever and the teeth snapped off. After talking to the maker of the machine, I found out this is suppose to happen because if the teeth didnt snap off after so much pressure the entire machine would suffer due to pressure. This is a heck of deal and I am looking to get rid of it fast! Comes in original box with maunals and needles. If you are intrested please shoot me an email at thecodyvance@gmail.com Much Obliged, Cody Vance theleathernomad.com

I want to make decretive Leather Bronc Halter nose bands, with hide, rhinestones, spots, & more. I'd like to use multiple or different hides, leathers such as stingray, embossed leathers. Can anyone help with patterns, & how to sew hides on? What tools & materials will I need, and where to get them? Any help would be so appreciated! I've attached some samples of what I'd like my projects to look like. Thanks, Andrea Any Tools for sale???

I am considering buying and Adler 204k machine, does anyone have experience with this machine? would it work for belts, holsters, gun cases/ how about saddle skirting? Any feel for what this type machine should be worth with power table and various accessories? New at the machine sewing have always sewn by hand in the past, Any help would be appreciated.