Edge paint

[charon]

4 hours ago, immiketoo said:

And by applicator, he means the tool, not the person applying it

In my case its both I think 

3 hours ago, GoldenKnight said:

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/292384444955

I bought a few of these. Just like one I got from Tandy on sale, but here it is less $$ and in various colors.  Probably the same maker. The only downside is the 1 to 4 week delay on delivery.

Since you are all clnfident that its the wrong tool I ordered one of these, thanks for the tip these cost next to nothing and I don’t have a Tandy around here...

[motocouture]

For what it’s worth, I don’t bevel my edges. I follow a very similar process to @Ferg, and I find the sanding gives as much gentle ‘rounding’ as I need. I find that without bevelling, the surface tension of the edge paint combined with the sharper edge of the leather helps keep a nice straight line. 

Then again, I also learn something new at this every day, too....

[RockyAussie]

I do use a variety of different methods for applying edge coats and I have found for me, for small product pieces a foam piece trimmed down like in the picture below works very well. The advantages are that by loading the edging up in the foam and wiping the edge off on the egg cup edge it holds plenty enough to not need re dipping constantly but has a broad enough surface to stop from getting the edging from going over the top. I made a video for the tube awhile ago that shows how I use this technique for doing belt edges. Note that the edging can be watered down by up to 10% to help give a better flow if needed.Although I sometimes use a soldering iron that is temperature controlled by a light dimmer switch it is not always necessary as some quick sanding between coats will often work as well.I have also put a few pics up of products I've done using the above method. Here is the video link-

Hope that is of some help

Brian

 

[BDAZ]

I take a wool applicator that has been used with USMC black and allowed to dry, slice the end off and slice a flat side and it works like a champ. Stiff enough to keep paint on the edge but holds enough for a decent run down the edge. Price is right.

[Dunluce]

11 hours ago, motocouture said:

For what it’s worth, I don’t bevel my edges. I follow a very similar process to @Ferg, and I find the sanding gives as much gentle ‘rounding’ as I need. I find that without bevelling, the surface tension of the edge paint combined with the sharper edge of the leather helps keep a nice straight line. 

Then again, I also learn something new at this every day, too....

If I remember rightly the Giardini booklet and video actually state this in that you should not bevel the edges but have a straight cut.

[KingsCountyLeather]

On 14/5/2018 at 11:40 PM, charon said:

In my case its both I think 

Since you are all clnfident that its the wrong tool I ordered one of these, thanks for the tip these cost next to nothing and I don’t have a Tandy around here...

Looks like Giardini are charging €24.90 for one of those roller pens.

[immiketoo]

You can get them on eBay for 12 bucks.

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, Dunluce said:

If I remember rightly the Giardini booklet and video actually state this in that you should not bevel the edges but have a straight cut.

On thin edged products this can work OK but is more difficult to keep the edging from going over the edges. It does take several coats and sanding to build up the rounded bead if going that way on thicker edges. The extra coats of paint are not as strong and long lasting as a rounded off edge with fewer coats. With the costs of labour I think Giardini are making mileage of the fact that with edging machines it is quicker to just build up the paint and save the extra preparation sanding time. For those new to edgecoat edging, I warn not to slick the edge smooth without further sanding before applying the paint as it can peel of in a long strip fairly easily. I don't bother with any slicking at all myself as I want to be sure of maximum adhesion. Lastly thick coats in time with most edge paints crack up a bit and are more noticeable than the thinner ironed in coats.

Brian

[Wedgetail]

I've not had much experience with painting edges compared to these other members, but did have a crack at using the pencil once or twice.

The key difference between a pencil and a cone shaped applicator with grooves in it is that the applicator rolls. If you don't roll the pencil too, you'll just end up smudging paint around... that and the grooves store more paint for longer and smoother runs.

But for both, if you are getting a bead of paint on the applicator that looks like a drop, you've got too much paint and will end up with a big glob at the start which will give you a wobbly line for sure.

Less paint, roll the pencil along the edge. Those are my tips

Now I do have a fair amount of experience with painting models and miniatures. So if you want to have a crack at using a small paint brush (good for corners mostly) try this: Thin the paint down a bit, load the brush so that it gets the paint right into the middle of the bristles (that's where the paint should be carried by a brush, not on the outside bristles). Wipe off excess on a cloth or paper towel so it is not globbed on the bristles, and use the side of the brush, not the tip, to apply the paint... think about applying the paint by using the side of the brush at an angle like you would use to sharpen a knife. For me, a brush is best for tight spots.

[Matt S]

4 hours ago, immiketoo said:

You can get them on eBay for 12 bucks.

I use a 50p pencil, or a £2 scratch awl.