Gluing layers for a gun belt

[Hildebrand]

How do you guys lay out the 2 layers to apply the contact cement and then put them together?  I am afraid the instant bond of contact cement will make my 2 pieces off if I am not perfect when I touch them together the first time.

Thanks,

Todd

[Bonecross]

You are right to be wary of placement! The best way to learn is to make mistakes though, so be bold...

And maybe make a jig to help align the pieces  Usually I sorta curve the top belt leather and guide it along with my fingers as it gets laid down, like laying a transatlantic cable! If you make a sound like a machine it helps

You will need to sand it anyway, so maybe make one piece slightly larger and then the edges don't need to be perfectly aligned. You can clean it up after.

Edited June 1, 2018 by Bonecross

[garypl]

1 hour ago, Bonecross said:

You are right to be wary of placement! The best way to learn is to make mistakes though, so be bold...

And maybe make a jig to help align the pieces  Usually I sorta curve the top belt leather and guide it along with my fingers as it gets laid down, like laying a transatlantic cable! If you make a sound like a machine it helps

You will need to sand it anyway, so maybe make one piece slightly larger and then the edges don't need to be perfectly aligned. You can clean it up after.

Agree with Bonecross - mark one piece larger , glue the pieces, then trim both edges.  You can also place a piece of paper over the bottom piece to keep the ends apart while you are placing the top piece onto the bottom piece.  This will not stick to either piece and you can move it down the length as you work your way from one end to the other.

Gary

[IngleGunLeather]

Make your liner 1/4 inch wider on each side. Trace your outer layer on to the flesh side of the liner. Apply glue to both flesh sides. Lay outer layer in the traced area. Stitch after glue has cured. Cut away excess material. Sand, bevel, burnish, finish.

[Dwight]

I set my cutting gauge and cut both pieces exactly the same size.  Also try to get them both next to each other out of the same hide if I can.  

Do the ends of the liner and the belt blank.

Apply cement and let dry.

I then fold over my buckle end so I know exactly where I want my liner to start, . . . and with the liner doubled over backwards above and over my left hand, . . . I slowly feed the liner down onto the belt and use my thumb and forefinger of the left hand to line them up and make em fit right.  

I then go over the belt with special emphasis on the edges, . . . with a wallpaper seam roller.

I then sand both edges flush, . . . stitch gouge both sides, . . . sew, . . . bevel, . . . and finish.

It is the fastest and easiest system I've developed so far, . . . turns out belts that don't get complaints, . . . that makes me happy.

May God bless,

Dwight

[dikman]

I have a comb binder (for making booklets etc) and the front covers are A4 size thin acetate. If I don't want the layers of something to stick straight away I place pieces of this between the layers then gradually remove them as I work down the two pieces. I like the idea of making one piece overwidth, never thought of that (duh!).

[immiketoo]

Oversized then trim is the only way to go.  Nothing beats a freshly cut edge to make your burnishing process easier.

 

[Rockoboy]

I am working on a couple belts and some dog collars right now. I cut the liner over-width on the second attempt on my 1st dog collar ... made things much easier. Yeah yeah I know ... 1st attempt was a learning experience.

[Silverd]

Two established belt making techniques.

1. Same size blanks and liners that require an accurate joining process to keep the edges aligned.

2. Oversized top or liner that allows for noncritical joining but requires the over lap edges to be trimed.  

Do I have this right?

Silverd

 

[JLSleather]

If you're making "plain" belts, solid color especially, you "could" line them up 'close' and then trim or sand to fit (keep in mind it should fit the buckle without excess room).

If on the other hand your belt is carved, then it may be more important to keep the width accurate - not trimmed.  I cut the front the size it needs to be, then cut the back (liner) about 1/4" wider SOLELY so I don't have to go nuts trying to line it up.  Trim and finish edges.

If you want to try to "save" that 1/4" of leather, you can glue both pieces, then separate them with wax paper, which will prevent the layers from sticking before you are ready.  Works a bit like the backing on a postage stamp or address label, and is commonly available in your neighbor's kitchen

 

[LumpenDoodle2]

I cut the lining larger than the belt, then offer the belt to the liner.    Make sure the centre of the belt touches down first, Then trim the lining to fit.

Cutting everything to size first, I found just wasted more time for me getting things lined up than the leather saved was worth.

[Dwight]

You guys are a lot better than this old codger. 

Trying to cut 1/8 of an inch off each side of a liner, . . . then have to still sand the edges to be sure they are "flat", . . . sure is a lot more work than I'm willing to do.

They start out the exact same size, . . . and only need minor sanding where the stamping may have swelled the top out, . . . or something like that.  

Oversize or same size, . . . still gotta sand it, . . . why put yourself in a pickle for that extra step???  Besides that, . . . I know me, . . . I'll slip with the old cutter, . . . and wind up with a slice in the belt, . . . nahhhh....

May God bless,

Dwight

[Bayou Bengal]

I do it the same way as Dwight.  Except I lay a long piece of wax paper down first and lay the top side face down and apply the liner.  Then I fold the wax paper over tap on it, then place a metal yardstick over the belt and wax paper and put a few clamps on the bottom of my table over the yard stick.  Never had any problems and sanding the edges has always been simple. 

[Joon1911]

An old woodworker’s trick for gluing laminate to countertops works well too. Have a bunch of short 1/4” dowel that you can lay down every 4” or so and once you get the two layers aligned you can start removing the dowels and sticking the two layers together.  Works like a charm. And if the contact cement is fully dry to tack, it doesn't even stick to the dowels.  

Edited June 2, 2018 by Joon1911
Typo

[Lobo]

I always used Fiebings Tanners Bond cement. Allows a reasonable working period to get everything in alignment. After it sets up you cannot separate the two layers without using a blade. Always figured what was good enough for saddle makers should be good enough for belts and holsters.

I also cut my lining layers a slightly wider dimension, then dressed the edges down on the sander after stitching, then bevel edges for finishing.

[koreric75]

8 hours ago, Lobo said:

I always used Fiebings Tanners Bond cement. Allows a reasonable working period to get everything in alignment. After it sets up you cannot separate the two layers without using a blade. Always figured what was good enough for saddle makers should be good enough for belts and holsters.

I also cut my lining layers a slightly wider dimension, then dressed the edges down on the sander after stitching, then bevel edges for finishing.

The Tanner's bond is pretty quick to stick if you let it sit and dry first... If you join while still tacky/or right after applying you can move it around a bit depending on if you peel off the flesh with it.... Then you'd just be smushing two pieces of unglued leather together.  You can touch up with a little dab in these small spots and be ok for a belt, also provided your liner doesn't stretch...

[PJCustomLeather]

I have a question along this subject matter. I was looking to line a belt with something and I was wondering what leather and thickness people use. I have looked at quite a few custom carved belts and it looks like they have a liner but it looks pretty thin. Any suggestions?

Edited June 21, 2018 by PJCustomLeather

[Dwight]

PJ, . . . depending on the desired thickness at the end of the job, . . . it will be between two layers of 6 oz and two layers of 8 oz.  I like cutting the pieces from the same hide, . . . side by side if I can.

I don't do much custom carving (actually try to avoid it) so I'm not the best source, . . . just giving you the info on how I do it.

The video shows how I put em together.  

 

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited June 21, 2018 by Dwight
Added a video

[chrisash]

On 6/2/2018 at 1:32 AM, garypl said:

Agree with Bonecross - mark one piece larger , glue the pieces, then trim both edges.  You can also place a piece of paper over the bottom piece to keep the ends apart while you are placing the top piece onto the bottom piece.  This will not stick to either piece and you can move it down the length as you work your way from one end to the other.

Gary

I do like this paper idea, so simple but so so effective

[garypl]

Thanks for posting the video Dwight - I like how you mate up the liner with the folded over buckle end of the belt!

Gary

[plinkercases]

Sometimes I make one larger and sometime not (depends on the thicknesses since thinner tends to wander a little more) and also I will use WAXED paper to help prevent premature sticking of items when gluing them.

Good video Dwight thanks. Nice touch where the liner and the outer meet at the buckle end.

That's one hefty belt.

[PJCustomLeather]

Thank you for the video!

Also I have seen where people put a stiffener inside the belt like a piece of poster board then line it with something. I feel like it would have to be lined with something really thin?

[Rockoboy]

3 hours ago, PJCustomLeather said:

I feel like it would have to be lined with something really thin?

I use webbing if I feel there is a need to add some strength, such as for a dog collar for a big dog, which I made previously and posted details of.

I use webbing which is 8 - 10mm narrower than the belt. The webbing gets glued to both pieces with contact cement.

[Hildebrand]

Thanks Dwight.  I think I am going to give this a go for my next project.

[malabar]

On 6/20/2018 at 11:25 PM, Dwight said:

PJ, . . . depending on the desired thickness at the end of the job, . . . it will be between two layers of 6 oz and two layers of 8 oz.  I like cutting the pieces from the same hide, . . . side by side if I can.

I don't do much custom carving (actually try to avoid it) so I'm not the best source, . . . just giving you the info on how I do it.

The video shows how I put em together.  

 

May God bless,

Dwight

We make heavy-duty gunbelts that are way over 1/4" thick and put 'em together almost exactly the same way. Only differences: I never thought about putting the strip underneath to get a better grip -- I'll have to try that; you have a fancier technique for making the knuckle; we use a heavy-duty lineoleum roller instead of thw wall-paper roller. 

Thanks for sharing.