Any reason not to use PVA instead of contact cement?

[Rocky143]

Michael, Valerie, 1993, The Leatherworking Handbook: Cassell Illustrated, 128 p.

This seems to be a very good general book on leatherworking, but it does not deal with carving and embossing.  It can be found new or used through Bookfinder.com.

Michael recommends PVA glue instead of contact cement.  
She says, "The most versatile adhesive is leatherworking grade PVA adhesive.  It is used to hold gussets and pattern pieces in position ready for stitching, to secure turned edges, and to attach linings and reinforcements....Rubber solution is a contact adhesive.  It is ideal for holding edges together while you are box stitching and for turning edges of lined belts and bags."

Her directions for using PVA are about the same as contact adhesive.  Apply the PVA to both surfaces.  Let it dry until it begins turning from white to clear, at which point it will be tacky.  Adhere the surfaces and press them together firmly.

I never see PVA recommended by American leatherworkers.  My question is whether it is okay to use PVA in place of contact cement?  PVA remains flexible when dry.  Using it would save exposure to hazardous chemicals.  PVA is not waterproof and should not be used for leather swimsuits or leather life jackets, but most leather goods do not get a lot of exposure to water.

I would appreciate reading some discussion of this from other leatherworkers.

Edited November 14, 2021 by Rocky143
a little addendum, spelling correction

[LatigoAmigo]

3 minutes ago, Rocky143 said:

My question is whether it is okay to use PVA in place of contact cement.

The choice depends on the application. I prefer to use contact cement to adhere interior linings to my bags, because I know that it won't fail me. As you pointed out, PVA is not water resistant, and I never know what exposure any of my bags will have in their "lifetime", and would hate to have my choice of adhesive to be the failure point.

[Matt S]

I wonder if the meaning has changed slightly over the years since that was written, or perhaps she was a little mistaken in her understanding. Normal white PVA (like for builders or woodworkers) works well on porous and non-greasy leathers, but it's slow and has no tack. You have to keep it held together with clamps/weights/staples/tacks while the glue goes off. I think that Fiebings leather cement (did it used to be called Tanners Bond?) is basically normal PVA too. If you want a water-based contact adhesive there are a lot more around these days, like Renia 315. Not my preference, but to each their own.

[Dwight]

If you want to use glue . . . just get the white kids stuff they use in school . . . or get white carpenter glue.

Both work quite well on stuff you want to glue for some reason other than contact cement.

Personally . . . Weldwood contact cement has never disappointed me . . . so why should I change?

Besides . . . I can have something stuck together with Weldwood in a matter of maybe one minute . . . it's at least an hour with glue.

May God bless,

Dwight

[fredk]

I've used PVA glue. Have done for many years

Its ok on joints which do not have any forces on them. eg my game boards, leather to wood board

You can get 'weather proof' water resistant PVA. Also you can make ordinary PVA water resistant by adding that floor varnish 'Mop & Glo' or whatever its called in your area. About 5% added to the glue and it dries water resistant

I'd not use the children's PVA I can get, its thinner and a weaker version. For roughly the same price I can get regular wood workers PVA, to which I add 'Astonish' floor varnish.

[bland]

I think it depends on the application. 

PVA glue can extend your working time.  Generally once you stick rubberized contact cement you are committed. 

You can apply PVA glue to wet leather. Contact cement doesn't stick to wet leather very well.  You can wet a piece after applying contact cement and it will stick pretty well.  

I doesn't create voids in edges when slicking them. Sometimes contact cement will pull out on the edges when you rub them.  

PVA glue needs longer curing time.  Contact cement has a stronger initial bond.    

I use both at times but usually turn to the rubberized contact cement 85-90% of the time.   

[Squid61]

I use PVA to hold two pieces until I can hand stitch them, no reason to waste contact cement to hold a seam for 10 minutes.  I use Fiebing's which is overpriced or my wife's Tacky Glue from her craft store but I'm sure no-name white glue would work equally well in that application.  By the way, a dot on the threads is a great way to keep Chicago Screws from backing out.

[fivewayswelshcobs]

PVA glue is very useful on lighter leathers especially before stitching when contact adhesive is too much and repositioning of layers is often needed. It also has the advantage if it drys it can be rewetted and will stick again.

I wouldn't use it on bridle leathers or saddles except when added to edge stain to finish the edges - it saves time and gives a good finish.

[Handstitched]

These days there are quite  a few varieties of contact adhesive  for different applications, for construction use for example , some of which are flexible like PVA  .  

I think I have tried PVA in my  early days of leather, but it just didn't quite hold .  I now use contact adhesive, its like an extra pair of hands . 

On 11/15/2021 at 2:49 AM, Dwight said:

just get the white kids stuff they use in school

We have ' Clag' here in Oz, a brand thats been around for eons ,  a white gloopy stuff . Brings back memories, mostly messy ones   

HS