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I'll agree with @kgg the brush motor is the one to go with we might have 2 out of 1,000 go bad where we had 3 out of 10 of the brushless type go bad & gave up on them.

There's 2 ways to fix it,replace it OR try sewing & using it w/o locking it up should make the part rock in the grooves to get it to free up,you need to tighten the smaller screw since that is what connects the stitch cam to the shaft.

Great work! I love those closures on the tracker sheath.

Pretty sharp!

Looking good. You are right. Hard to hide any nicks, fingernail marks for sure.

@chuck123wapati you've convinced me, i'll give the ol bunky bbq a rebuild . Our spam comes in a nicely formed lump out of a tin and can be sliced, just like corned beef in a tin , full of fat and God knows what else, a vegos worst nightmare, that and black pudding, ha! But they taste great 👍 HS

Thanks everyone for your input. That is definitely very helpful. cheers, José

I guess it's sort of 'nowhere to hide'? Keeps you honest, though. Larry

Funny, but gosh, that looks OLD! Is it from an old movie?

You need to quote part of the post, or tag the user so he gets a notification. @szeregowy You have some one interested in your machine. To tag a user, type the @ symbol followed by the username, then pick it from the popup box.

12 year old post, but @BearManappears to check in still. Maybe tagging him will draw his attention.

That's very clever Dwight. Concealed suspenders.

Hey Cumberland, Thanks for the recommendation, and the heads-up. Yeah, I figured that Weaver had a premium price on their champagne product but I'm on a beer budget! Nick

Hey Bruce, I'm so glad that you mentioned Texas Custom Dies. I bought a bag punch from them maybe 15 years ago, give or take but I couldn't remember their name. I was (am) very happy with their product and service. I will likely go with them this time... no reason not to. Nick

So was I right?

Can you make another?

Here is the relevant section of the manual. I assume that turning the adjustment screw clockwise is meant to bring the ex-center closer to the center of the shaft.

The bobbin case isn't fitted properly, that tab sticking out is supposed to fit in a notch under the needle plate to stop the case from turning.

Did the problem start straight after you damaged the cable? It's a bit of a coincidence if that's not the cause. IF that's the cause then the chances of getting a warranty claim is unlikely. As far as the manufacturers are concerned these things come under the category of "disposable/non-repairable", I've never heard of anyone carrying spare circuit boards for them. Much like the speed control boards in mini lathes, mine died pretty early and the Chinese company offered me a partial refund as they didn't carry spares. I eventually sourced a speed controller on ebay and adapted it BUT I doubt you could do that with a servo. I agree with kgg, if the board is damaged then the simplest/cheapest option is to buy a generic servo off ebay unless the dealer is willing to help out. As Al said no-one appears to have bothered doing any work on these (probably because there's zero information available about them!).

I assume you removed the hook. When you drop the hook back in, make sure it also drops into the hole of that little piece that moves the bobbin latch opener. If you miss that part, the hook (and bobbin) will be about 1/8" too high, and the screw won't tighten reliably because the hook isn't down where it's supposed to be. It's important not to run under power till you get this sorted. A check for this would be to turn the machine over (gently) by hand and see if the latch opener moves. If the latch opener does not move, then the hook probably isn't down inside that piece. I don't remember exactly what mine looked like that had this problem. This machine Uwe demonstrates on looks more or less foolproof, but I've had a different machine that was quite fiddly to get all the pieces to align so the hook would drop in all the way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfkGrz3OugA&t=277

Some nice work there yuma.

Have you tried unpluging the servo motor cord from the wall outlet. Some electronic items even through you have the power switch in the "OFF" position they are still drawing power and are basically in a "Sleep Mode". I would unplug and wait a few minutes just to make sure it has fully powered down and cleared it's memory. On my LS-341 clone which has a brushless servo motor and electronic control when I throw the power switch to the "OFF" position the electronic display stays light for about a minute before going blank. So there is a power draw. I would contact both the store and Artisan to clarify your warranty. Having a damaged cable could have or is causing a short which in turn could have caused an error or worst case fried the controller. If you damaged the wiring chances are you are going to be on the hook for a new cable and possibly a controller. If it does turn out to be the controller unit it maybe cheaper just to replace the complete motor setup for about $150 to $200 for 6 coil motor or $300 for a 12 coil motor or a brushed servo motor for about $175. The trouble you are having tracing the source of the problem highlights the difference between a brushed servo motor with no fancy electronics and a brushless servo motor with a electronic controller box. As you can tell I am not a fan of the brushless servo motors. I like my machines to be as simple as possible. Sewing machine, speed reducer (on some), servo motor, drive belt(s) and a go pedal. The two machines with brushless servo motors have the needle positioning disconnected. kgg

How to get this stitch length mechanism freed up? In this first photo of the main shaft, we have the timing cog on the right, the feed shaft cap in the middle, and the stitch length mechanism on the left. The large hole in the middle of the stitch length mechanism is for a set screw which I have removed. The smaller hole (upper right) of the stitch length mechanism is where I have removed the lock screw. so that the adjustment can actually be made. Then I rotate the handwheel some, and now we see a different set screw (lower left, already loosened) and the big adjustment screw next to it. The adjustment screw can move about 200 degrees from left to right before it binds. I've soaked the adjustment screw and the hole where the lock screw goes with marvel mystery oil, and even squirted some between the adjustment mechanism and the feed shaft cap. I've tapped on the adjustment screw with a hammer (using a metal screwdriver as a go-between). I've tapped the feed shaft with a hammer. Still nothing budging. Is there anything else I should try (or shouldn't try) to get this to move?