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  2. Brilliant!
  3. The file’s still there and I can download it. Maybe copy/paste that link into a new browser window or use a different browser.
  4. That video is helpful. It looks to me like the pin that rides inside the spiral slot is loose. If that’s the case, you most likely have to replace that slider, or the whole eccentric. Unfortunately that’s a bit of an operation because you have to remove bunch of parts to remove the eccentric. Sometimes that pin is a press fit, which is not really repairable unless you can weld it in place. If it’s a thread pin like the one in the picture, you might be able to tighten it . This could perhaps be done by disassembling the eccentric and separating the parts to gain access to that pin, without removing it from the shaft.
  5. Today
  6. Looks like it's ready to serve another hundred years. Great job!
  7. I use the same. I got the sawdust from Home Depot - several kgs of it and they wanted to give me a lot more!
  8. All good advice above, I've used all of them. Another thing to consider is that the leather needs to be relaxed before you start cutting (no no .. not like give it a cup of tea and a comfy chair relaxed). What I mean is that you'll want to lay out the leather flat and not at all stretched nor compressed before you start cutting. It's tempting to pull it taut to make cutting easier, but that will cause problems down the road as it shrinks back to size. - Bill
  9. +1 on rotary cutter, but scissors work well too.
  10. friggin awesome friend!! Heck yeah, it was worth it .
  11. Instead of cork backing, try using 220-400 grit adhesive backed sandpaper on your rules. Right to the edge, as long as you're slightly careful it shouldn't scratch the leather, and it will minimize stretch. I like the rotary cutters as well, but it's another tool to keep sharp. Just another option...
  12. I've long wanted a cobbler's hammer (mainly 'cos I don't have one!). I remember my dad had one but it disappeared a very long time ago and wasn't among his tools when I got them. Very difficult to find, particularly used, so I thought "why don't I make one?". Can't be that hard. Hah, should have known better! I found a ball-peen hammer head for $3 and away I went. First thing was to reduce what I think was a very large tent peg to fit the hole in the head to prevent it from collapsing during the forging. I don't know what steel it was made from but it was tough to move under the hammer! Then it was time to start widening the head and likewise I don't know what the steel is in old hammers but this stuff is also hard to move. Once it got below orange heat the hammer had no effect on it. Eventually I got it to a suitable width and then mashed out the ball part to a flat. This hammering, by the way, didn't do my tennis elbow much good!!! I cleaned it up on the belt grinder and then heated it to non-magnetic and quenched in oil. I thought I'd have to temper it but a file could still (just) mark it so I called it good. I suspect the mass of the head was too much to cool quickly enough in oil and suspect quenching in water would have been better but it should be hard enough for leatherwork. I decided to leave the oil-quench coating on to give it some rust protection and just polished the face. The handle is from some Blackwood that I cut down years ago and saved just-in-case, need to give it another coat of linseed oil tomorrow. Was it worth it? Dunno, but it's something I just had to do.
  13. Right. It also depends where you are, it's also called a "loop".
  14. Nicely done! Sand casting can be a challenge at first, but you’ve got those conchos looking clean. Appreciate you sharing the process.
  15. Used these light for years and they bright with a stout goose neck .. Best LED Sew
  16. until
    IFOLG 2026 Traditional meets modern Illinois Valley Leather Guild
  17. I noted the original post to alert any browsers to the new price, Beautiful looking stuff.
  18. In the upper right corner of your post there are 3 horizontal dots, which is the dropdown menu. Click it. The EDIT option is there.
  19. @AtomicLeather You are correct, the stamps and roll embossers are bookbinding tools. They're even more expensive than most leather working tools from what I've seen!! - Bill
  20. Yesterday
  21. Yeah, spammers are a real pain. I did the reply method that you advised on. Thanks
  22. TomG

    Snake Skins

    Price reduced to $150. Will ship for free to continental USA
  23. Amazon or ebay has a wide variety of them dirt cheap. I just grabbed a few magnetic based, flexible necked lights. If you have a servo motor, the box might even have a plug so it comes on with the machine.
  24. The easiest is just to reply to your own post. If you like, once you do that I can go edit your original post to refer to the new and improved price. The edit window is only a short time, thanks to the spammers. They like to come back and edit their garbage in later on.
  25. I put a Python skin in the For Sale area and want to reduce the price. I can't see any way to edit my post. Can anyone show me the light? I thought messages used to have an EDIT button
  26. Went to look at an appointment only estate sale because I saw they had some exotic wood for sale (I also turn wood projects), and asked if there were any tools or other equipment for sale…. I was amazed how much leather working stuff was piled up in a room, most of it still wrapped up since 2012-2014. There is the neatest set of roller embossing tools that I think are for bookmaking, but will make some great borders for some of my projects. Glad there was a gallon of neatsfoot oil so I can try and rejuvenate some of these hides...
  27. Hello Thought I'd share one of the reasons why I wanted to get my Singer 111W155 sewing again. I have my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban. I learned to drive and work on vehicles with this car. I plan on redoing the seats. If you care to check it out, here's a link to my YouTube channel. My late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMaLPwPr28mlkzzgNSuLCdVyCnJmZ2Pf2
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