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If I understand you correctly, You are saying that the top thread loop that forms on the right side of the needle is still present as the needle moves up and the shuttle is making its second rotation. If this is the case, I think that you have forgotten to pass the top thread through the hole in the take-up lever! The path is to loop around the three hole pre-tensioner bar, then around the center of the top tension disks, then out the bottom of the disks to the check spring assembly - where you pull up as you wrap the thread around the spring and its channel until it snaps in place. From the check spring, you feed the thread up through a thread guide to the take-up lever. Pass the thread through the eye in the lever from right to left, then down through the remaining guides to the guide ring on the bottom of the needle bar. From there you thread the needle from left to right, making sure that the ribbed side is on the left and the cutout scarf side is on the right. Failure to thread the check spring correctly may also cause this problem as well as cutting the top thread as the needle descends.

Tandy. But you are not going to get them for $2bucks. They are like $12-$14 each.

A few minutes in CAD and hour print time. 2" wide 60 degree diamond stencil for topstitching fabric or leather. Marking pencil for fabric is needed, chalk would be too wide for the slots. Currently working on a quilted canvas and leather bag. File on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1561905-2-wide-60-degree-diamond-fabric-stencil

Nice work. It looks great.

Looks a lot better than mine. Those big boys are awesome! I've had two now in 44mag and even my g daughter loves shooting them. My newest lever action is a rossi in 454 casull and it's a kick in the shorts but the rossi isn't that impressive when it comes to feeding. The Henry feeds so much better.

Thank you Completed the tooling, since the HD logo was the main theme decided to just color it and let the rest be supporting elements.

I have owned a Harold Madden saddle for 70 years and it is still in great shape.

Well it's time again to resurrect the old baby .......3 years down the line and it was never used, a new project is on hand, it looks like if i need to start from the beginning setting it up, what I found problematic is with the tension of the thread something is not correct as it brakes the thread Turning the handwheel to check the timing the hook is passing the needle and is picking up the loop when the needle goes up, turning the handwheel further so that that the hook comes around a second time the thread still has the loop formed at the bottom of the thread plate this the thread has not been tensioned by the tensioner while the needle goes up, I have adjusted the spring so that its very tight but still not working, I might have to struggle a while before I would get it to work again. Any tips as this was used 3 years ago....

Great job, very consistent sewing along the edge! Amann Serafil is my main thread for all sewing machine jobs, for hand sewing I use Amann Serabraid. I once checked Amanns homepage, they make an incredible range of various threads, from anti flammable to UV (sunlight) resistant. Brgds Jonas

Moved your post to Sewing Leather

My son bought a new rifle and showed me this clicker-stamped sew-on thing on the net, actually said it was handcrafted. I didn't know running a clicker press was considered a craft. Well, anyway, it can be done differently, especially for a Henry lol. The 1/4" veg tan lace, skived and burnished, took about an hour of prep. Finished with real sinew, stained Bison brown.

That's coming along. The design is balanced nicely.

Weld wood from the hardware store if it's going be wet molded. I also use the white version if not. It's supposed to save a few brain cells. I also use the double sided tape I get from Makers Supply. 3M stuff and holds very well.

I’m just using the stitch punches that come with the set I got a bunch of years ago. I agree that pulling too tight is not always the best practice

Very nice work.

Thank you for input.

I make rattlesnake hatbands using a 1/2" buckle set. A few years ago, I bought a lot from a dealer that was closing their shop. The buckle components were stamped and plated. I am now out. I want to find something inexpensive to replace what I have been using. (I paid $2 for each set.) I have tried a few suppliers, eBay, and Amazon, with no luck. I appreciate any help finding what I need.

He's got the first 3 listings right now here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/78-leather-and-lace/ He listed a green kangaroo hide and it disappeared right away. All that stuff looks top notch and Ferg is great to deal with. I've bought things from him a couple of times now

Don't know about Ferg, but I'd definitely be interested!

Did you take that kangaroo hide Ferg had for sale? I bet that's a fantastic hide. My wallets usually feel chunky, too. That .6mm kangaroo might be the ticket. I took one of his other hides, the first cordovan one, and what a beautiful piece of leather. I need to come up with a worthy project.

I just bought a kangaroo hide. Wow. Although a little pricey, this is going to be a game changer for my wallets! Great stuff, and I haven't even used it yet!

It has no feed dog so in which way do you think you can use a darning machine for leather work?

Thank you, Hans! I took your advice and I am able to "harmonize" pretty well with my Adler. Although there are times... Lol But, thank you again for your wisdom! Warm wishes, Amy

Glenn, please send me a pm with your information.

Has anyone had experience making watch fob straps? Seems pretty straightforward, just a mini belt. I'm confusing myself thinking about how they're folded, and where all the holes go. I'm also wondering if/how to get fancy with them, not much room for tooling. Suggestions on leather type?