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wow thats beautifull work and a interesting machine man. i like how you fixed up the real k6 with an old table tob and some vintage legs. that would be my route aswell. but ill just have to wait and see what comes up on my path here and there. and thanks for the tips on parts. ill go take a look always good to have adresses for hard to get parts. but my main goal is fetching up parts machines. they come up around here now and again. i would like a few restored ones and set them up for a few different jobs in my upholstery work. thank you for sharing your post. it was inspiring 😇

I have no doubt these motors are good (they're made by Hightex) but here they're a ridiculous price. I bought "generic" servos and built speed reducers for considerably less cost and they all work fine for my needs. I guess for commercial usage the cost isn't so much a factor - but how many factories want such a slow speed machine? In most factories the speed of making something is very important (time is money) so paying extra for a slow speed you don't need is wasting money. It seems to me it's a pretty specific (and limited) market this motor is catering for? Don't get me wrong, I'd love to change my servos for these but the cost would be absurd, ain't going to happen.

How about diesel or other penetrating oil on the stud? How about tapping the tip of the stud with a long steel rod and a light hammer?

I appreciate any help and yes I was trying to push fork towards the camera and I think i did about 1-2mm and the whole mechanism start to work almost good, but almost it's not perfect. If the fork have thread then the screw should have at least cut so i can unscrew. Everything in this machine should be easy to unmounted. I can take off that fork, i was using a lot of force and even cooling it. I was looking for a hidden super small bolt in the fork holding it so tightly. As I said I was trying everything and no luck. If someone ever unmounted that fork please help. I was trying to unmounted the mechanism behind the fork and still no luck. I can/t reach bolts or they are holded by nut behind the mechanism so still no luck.

I purchased three of the 1000SH motors/controllers from Ryan and I run gargantuan machines (Singer 7-33, 11-20 and 11-22) with them, working heavy leather at slow speeds, no speed reducers required. (Running 230/26 needles and #346 threads.) I can't say enough good things about Ryan and his service both before and after the sale. I will say that the manual, highly technical, needs some clarification at a few points, but for most applications, it's "plug and play." In addition, because of the nature of standard rubber (or rubber composite) V belts to take a "set" while at rest, especially around the small pulley on the motor, I use an "ACCU-LINK" adjustable link V-belt (the green one) with the 3L profile. Runs without distortion or doesn't produce the black rubber dust common to rubber(ized) belts as they wear. Stupidly expensive, but easy to fit and re-adjust as necessary, and clean running.

I once owned a similar machine I stripped mine for parts back then after I found a 132K6 and I do not look back. I think they are not worth upgrading to 132K6 as parts are rare and expensive - IF the upgrade is technically possible at all. But maybe you have luck - dunu. a lot of parts (in general) can be found at College Sewing or Trojan Sewing in the UK or MARFAR in Australia.

Yeah, took me a while to figure out that problem also. Lifting the foot causes it. Shuffling the material around while the foot is up also. Try to keep the foot down when turning and if it's a mild turn keep the needle down as well.

Yeah, I can definitely do that! I'm surprised I haven't gotten more interest.

Ok, hopefully Guest Rob finds this post. I flipped it to the sewing machine sub forum where it should get some action. Later today I'll have time to come tell you a little unless someone else gets to it first. Let me strongly encourage you to join the forum as a regular member so you can get notices of things like this reply. Basically, you have a solid machine, assuming it's working well. The W series serial numbers are all 1940's production.

Just decided to dive in deep - got a working Singer 111W103 with table for $250. Don’t want to pay someone for work I could enjoy doing myself and have a machine for other jobs essentially paying for most of itself on the first small tent canvas job. I am DIY replaced the timing belt and new servo motor - almost made the mistake of getting a reversible one and found out can’t do that…ok. I am looking for a copy/pdf of instructions/parts diagrams - I have found the same copied 100 times 15 page parts list - got that - any other documentation would be most welcome. Can’t post pictures? So Serial number is W760987 Type 111W103

thanks for the mm next to the inch measurment and yeah i think this kinda walking foot system wil do good with car upholstery work. as the materials dont really slide much and i already use mostly hand control with the materials as i sew to keep everything perfectly lined up. on thicker leather i understand it wont do much good as it needs more force to hold the material in place then these machines offer. they all came from the same sailshop. so i think they just got replaced all together at one point instead of being worn out or broken. but ill see. the heavy topstitsch is really populair these days in upholstery in cars and on bike seats so that would be cool to use them for. i just hope they have double needle versions and long arm versions but havent been looking yet for those. thats what im hoping. getting some trust and experience with these. and im sure ill get more comfortable with my 267 if something goes wrong to work on it. these are a fun and beautifull platform to start on

Our autumn is similarly chill. Holy effing eff I love winter. We live in a paradise, @Sheilajeanne I wasn't going to, but did want to dip a toe into the market. I'll give it a whirl, and see if it's worth it. Probably not, but then again, you don't know til you try. I'm going to do a bunch of sanding, to prep a pretty house for its first coat of paint. Also monotonous, but I'm looking forward to it. I find some of that monotony soothing.

The Singer 132k6, with the spring loaded follow foot, was actually designed for the buffing wheel industry. I think there was an attachment that secured the center of the wheel and moved it slowly in time with the action of the machine to sew through all of the layers of cloth in a circular spiral pattern. The capacity is 1/2 inch, or 12.5mm. The follow foot is only useful if it can grab a hold of the top surface, like it can in cloth items. I tried sewing slicked leather belts along the edges only to have the foot slide on the top and do nothing to help the feed. As a result, the stitch length varied and I ruined some things until I got wise and sold the machine. Assuming you can get one of them to work, it might be good for upholstery that is thicker than the Adler can handle, or requires a heavier weight thread. The 132 I had was able to handle up to #346 bonded nylon thread.

They're generally called 801 skivers and there's no reason why it shouldn't be great. When I made a wallet for myself I skived it to death. It's an eleven pocket bifold and is really thin when fully loaded. They're pretty simple machines and most parts are easy to find.

Working on one of these old machines will give you confidence to make adjustments on your new machine. For example, you could take one of these machines and oil it up and make sure it sews...then locate all the possible timing adjustments on it (there are several) and one by one adjust them to match factory spec. Not much disassembly is required to make timing adjustments.

Just throwing something against the wall. . . Did you possibly raise the presser foot with the needle up while going around the curve? Maybe that released the top tension. JM2C, Jim

Your stitch length is unequal as you go around the bend. Maybe that is affecting the tension. In that tight corner, try doing all your turning with the needle down. That is---stitch, turn, stitch, turn, stitch, turn. That will get your stitch lengths to match. And see if that fixes the tension issue as well.

Lori, To make a true 1:1:2 ratio you will need to use "fluid ounces". I assume you need to melt the beeswax and cocoa butter before measuring. Whether you are using volume or weight, you need all ingredients in the same format. It could be converted to volume if you knew the specific gravity of the ingredients. Maybe weigh the pint of olive oil? JM2C, Jim

We've got snowmageddon here this week, and temperatures as low as -15 C. And it's not even officially winter yet! Well the one upside to it is I guess it's going to be a white Christmas!

hi everybody after reading allot of posts on here on the oldschool sewing machines i found myself wanting to upgrade to oldschool 😎. i have a upholstery shop in the automotive world. classic cars and bikes and boats and sometimes furniture. i started with a new bulletproof durkopp adler 267. never had issues with it at al thats why i bought it. but i want to expand my machine park with the classic sewing machine mostly for fun and the challange. would like to restore a few get to know them in and out so i can fix them and maintain them when needed. ashamed to say if something happens to the 267 i bring it to a sewingmachine mechanic i dont dare to touch it 😄 buying it new and costing 2 grand i always feel afraid to mess it up or something. so i bought these 4 singers i thought they where all 132k6,s but turns out 2 are k7,s my first question for the experts on here would be. the difference between the k6 and k7. as far as i have seen the k6 has the walking foot system on it. and the k7 only the bottom feed right ? the next question is can the walkingfoot system be put ok a k7 ? and are the metal bed and head bolted or welded together ? i have one k6 with a broken bed. would be nice if i could put a good one on it from a parts machine. the seller also had a 111w155. i should have bought it as wel same condition as these. but i was going for 2 machines and then came home with 4 already so i skipped it. but i might go back for it 😅 my plans are cleaning them up and see what i got for now. im in between houses and workshops at the moment so cant do much yet. but i would like to restore them to new condition and use them in my upholstery shop eventually. ill mis the reverse for sure. but i know they exist so hopefully i find one again. cause i seen one but was to stupid and didnt wanna pay up and now i have regrets 😂 thank you for adding me to the community. seen many great posts already and great people on here

Well chuck, the hot weather has well and truly kicked in .40 degs + , today and next week, whatever that is in F's . Just as well I'm having our air cond upgraded tomorrow. Our local sparky is doing the installation. No doubt its getting quite cold where you are . Just 2 more markets to go and that's it until next year. Looking so forward to a nice break tbh. Stay safe, HS

Why would anyone want to throw that away? Even if it didn't work , it would make an awesome display piece in your workshop 😀 I'd be like a kid on Christmas day . Great find 👍 Hope you're able to get all cleaned up and working again. HS

I want to get a bell skiver and was curious if this Amazon bell skiver would work. I’m mainly working with 2/3 oz chrome tan for wallets and bags. https://a.co/d/elqlLas

From what I was told by Ryan (if I remember correctly) the 750 SL is let's say the base model that runs as slow as 50 rpm and is rated at 1 hp. The 750SH is the same but is built to run on the slow side longer if that makes sense and is also rated at 1 hp. The slower they run the more heat is generated so I believe it has to do probably additional heat sinks in the controller. The 1000SH is the best one, it too can run all day at very slow speeds and is rated at 1.3 hp. Just last week I had tried one of the generic "750" watt motors with needle positioner from Amazon. I think it was on and off my machine in two days, it would have been sooner but I still have a day job. The Kinedyne is so much more refined, is much heavier is very well built and the positioner is super accurate. The generic one would drift all over the place, the Kinedyne is spot on every time. I really like the controller being separate so ou can easily change settings without having to crawl under the table. They are not cheap, but honestly you get what you pay for. A generic digital servo runs about $75-100, a good analog servo is now about $175. The Kinedyne starts at just under twice the analog model. I would rather not quote Neel's Saddlery's pricing and suggest you contact him yourself. And don't worry about dealing with a smaller company, he is a top notch guy. I did wrestle with the cost, however after getting it I really don't regret it. You might watch the videos from The Thoughtful Woodworker, they helped me make up my mind.

That's called working yourself out of a job lol. But I admire your attitude. Me, I could not, would not sit and make fobs all day. I can't do monotonous in any form. Right now I am down 2-0 on making a credible pair of moccasins, but i am gaining lol. My sole form worked well, but it's a bit too small, and the pattern I am using has some minor issues that I need to change.