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As I wandering the lanes of Scotland I heard a farmer shouting I thik ne was a Rolling Stones fan but he got some of the words wrong He was shouting ' Hey M'Cloud get offa ma you'

I'd skive and roll the edge (at least on the 'outside' of the panels), but using contact adhesive. Basting tape will be a pain to stitch through (and also to stick down in curves) and can damage your thread. Notching would depend on the radius and thickness of the (skived) leather; do a test on a bit of scrap first. You can also go for slightly rougher look by skiving the edges of the leather tape really thin and leaving them as-as. And finally you could go for a 'coupé net' where you don't add any leather tape on the edges of the bag panels and seal them with edge paint.

I also needed to repair the Belly Band, (or whatever it's actually called.) The owner didn't keep the leather clean, it was covered in sweat, dirt, and oils. I cleaned it with saddle soap and a toothbrush. My repair was to replace the broken loop that held a D-ring. Miss T was going to cut back the stitching so I could remove the rivet and the old loop, then replace them. Then I would saddle stitch the removed stitching. She took the band into her shop, pulled about 1-1/2" of stitches and discovered they had glued the two panels together. So I cut a square into the back of the band, and drilled out the rivet. The loop was glued into place as well. I cut out as much of the old loop as possible and made a new loop, and put it on with a chicago screw. Worked well. A closeup of the new loop. Unlike the pics of the fenders, this piece hasn't been treated with Mink Oil yet. I also made new laces so she could wrap the fenders near the blevins like she prefers. I wasn't going to try and recreate that. The project is pretty much done at this point. I'll be back to sheaths and holsters, a belt now and then.

Wow, been away from the topic for a while. Weather. We had ten days of snow and ice and because of my physical challenges the wife won't let me out to go to the shop when the footing is challenging. Thirty surgeries so far and don't need thirty one. LOL. The weather finally turned decent and I was able to get back out and finish the work. I was also waiting for hardware. I had ordered rivets and burrs, but the first set that came in were too short at 1/2", I reordered 1" rivets, and Springfield is a great company, but slow. It took a week. I also ordered more Mink Oil, it was a lot faster coming from Amazon, two days. No matter, stuck in the house ten days. The view of the Fender Assembly from the rear: I didn't remake the stirrup straps, the owner didn't ask for them. I reused the blevins for the same reason. But, everything went together well. The shape of the back pieces is by design, she will curl them and lace them to keep them curled. The view from the front.... For a first attempt, I was happy with the result. My daughter sent her friend pictures and got back a one word reply. "Wow!" I guess she was happy, that's all that matters.

As a note the difference between a 1341 and 341 is minimal. You probably don't have the manuals for your machine so here a some that will be helpful as well as a needle size to thread size chart link ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) : kgg Juki LS-1340&42 Servcie Manual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Instruction_Manual.pdf

@Hags @Handstitched @fredk thanks so much

does anyone use outside spring calipers/inside spring calipers in leather working or even other tools like those besides wing dividers? if so what is best way to use them?

A. short finger nails are a must or latev/rubber gloves to cover them b. run a groover between all the stitching holes before you stitch

Nice work!

I just picked up a used 1341 and noticed some of material slightly slips while sewing. When the needle reaches the top most, shouldn't the presser foot go all the way down to the throat plate? If so, can anyone help me and explain how to adjust the presser bar to go down?

A few thoughts from my first time applying tools or finish to leather... Workspace is important! Everything must be clean! And I understand why I've seen people wearing gloves working with leather. My pieces look thoroughly manhandled, which of course they. I felt like a fingernail scratched some surface every time I moved. I already know what I'd do different. I beveled the edge. Smooth, even passes are critical. I presume I'll get a feel for the right angles and pressure. I sanded with 240. I tried to go "one way" but again, I'll figure out the grain. More like wood? Or steak? 😉 I did one pass with tokonole. Clearly I used to much. But I see what one application did and how to make it better. Even for a first time, I think it looks better than it was. This weekend I teach myself saddlestitch!

That's almost too simple for a pattern . . . use a manila folder . . . wrap it around the gun . . . mark it and cut it . . . voila . . pattern May God bless, Dwight

KC is a great guy and have done business with him multiple times at Traditions. The Live Oak leather they have tools nicely. It just doesn't seem as "sturdy" or have as much density as HO. Almost kind of floppy. But after tooling and dyeing, it firms up pretty nice. I have been pleased with it. It seems to be cheaper too.

Thank you Chuck

Yep. Check etsy

' How do men in Australia find sheep in long grass?' Very enjoyable indeed HS

i think it came out pretty darn good!

Yes, you can notch the life out of the first fold because no one will see it. More careful with the second. Skiving might help as well.

This seems good and fine, but is there any digital version out there aswell?

I didn’t really stretch them that much, they always shrink tight. I started off using dental floss on some of the more delicate wallabies to attach them to the frames until one day I was in a hurry and tried the pneumatic staple gun and found it heaps quicker and neater. The cows were strung with builders string onto a makeshift raw dogwood frame. My place is surrounded by dogwood so that was easy to grab at the time! im not 100% sure what the timber is on the cat frame, my neighbour has a Lucas mill which I help with from time to time and gave me a lot of the off cuts - he says it’s American redwood. But this is the outer sapwood. I like the look of it so have left the cat on it! last night I took down the cow hides off their frames, I have heaps more room now! Im in tassie, love it here.

I trying to find new rocker to order and new screw for sure the thread is damaged in there, so will replace for new thank you

My daughter needed a gift for the buyer of her project at our county stock show. Since her buyer happens to be my boss’s wife I was able to customize a purse for her. I used 5/6 oz Hermann Oak skirting for the panels, and for the gusset some chrome tan that I found at Tandy on clearance I thought look nice. The pattern I used was from Tandy’s purse pattern pack that I modified to have an interior pocket and have a wider gusset with a shoulder strap instead of the wrist strap it called for. I used the tooling pattern that came with it slightly modified to incorporate the brand. I gave it a couple coats of neats foot oil and used mahogany antique and finished with tan-kote. Sewed it together with Maine Thread .040 twisted thread. Here are some pictures, let me know what you think.

My friend just got into the 3d printing hobby. The other day, it was his birthday. In true hobbit fashion, he gave me gifts. several animal stamps, 3d printed with carbon fiber plastic. When I tried the previous stamps, a texture from the printing became visible after finishing. This time I sanded it a bit and got rid of that. So now stamp production is so cheap, it almost isn't worth considering buying a metal stamp for these. He has also made some rollers, which are for impressions on clay, which is a hobby his sweetheart loves. (I sense some motivated learning there) If you want a stamp, it is now shockingly inexpensive and easy to have. I may devise a durability test, but the one I tried last went over a dozen uses with no visible wear.

dikman, I thank you again for your feedback. I’m presently working on purchasing the machine which would be my first industrial machine. As you mentioned, it should be a good machine and is reportedly in working order. If the shipping comes in reasonable I’m ready to, and excited to get it as it’s looking like a fair deal. I was trying to see if someone was familiar with this no further letters/ numbers following the 211 identifier. I have heard that it is a machine for which spare parts are not too rare and that it is the precursor to many other reliable machines. All in all things seem to be promising. It will take me a while to get her online but I’m looking forward to get it, inspect it, clean it and eventually having it working as well as I can. I’m excited. Thanks

I was buying from Springfield in the past until both of my last two orders got sent back. In my eyes what they sent to me should never have left their door. It’s sad to think that they lost a good customer by obviously trying to pull the wool over my eyes and hope that someone somewhere will just not send it back and just bite the bullet on accepting inferior leather. I’ve since bought two sides directly from Wickett and Craig and was absolutely happy with both the quality, price, and shipping.