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Nice set up. I really want an airbrush and the knowledge/skill to use it. I spray all my dye thru a DeVilbiss Finish Line HVLP auto paint gun. Just a great big airbrush. 55-60 lbs pressure. Any less it wants to get spotty when spraying really light. Tried the spray bottles and little sprayers at Home Depot. Not even close. I do understand what Dwight is saying about it being more like a topcoat. I use sheepskin for black and many coats usually. Everything I do is the same dye with black around it. I started spraying the dye when I made those backgammon boards in my albums. I was using veg tan for the fields, so I made a template 1/32" bigger than the points/pips and taped the stencil to the raw veg tan. Sprayed very light probably 10 coats at least so it wouldn't bleed past the stencil. No cuts in the fields. The guy was professional player. The blue on the outside of the Braves board is sprayed and it turned out pretty even. I get up to a 12" pattern if I want and total control how much dye. Almost everything has a coat in all for directions and then some. I haven't really noticed the sprayed dye being a problem with all the stuff my wife and daughter have. I still understand what Dwight is saying.

This how I do it in a nut shell: i) Apply Jojoba oil. The oil is undiluted and applied with +30 psi to the veg tan. Wait 24 hours. My theory is that with +30 psi the Jojoba oil is forced in the leather and causes the leather fibres expand to allow for better dye absorption. The reason I don't use Neatsfoot oil is there is a possibility of it going rancid and degrading stitching over a period of time????? ii) Apply the dye. The dye mixed with 99 percent rubbing alcohol at a 50/50 ratio and applied at +30 psi. Wait 24 hours. On the shoes (done August 2023) I used a Paasche airbrush with a psi setting of +45 psi. iii) Apply Jojoba oil to the veg tan. Wait 24 hours then finish. Here is a couple of photo's of one shoe from each pair of shoes (done August 2023) after two years of wear. Like @Dwight mentioned you can do some nice fading which can be seen being a lighter tone on toe and darkening to the body of the shoe. kgg

Thank you, I will do that

Thank you so much for this very thorough list!

No, sorry later i found an adler assembly and changed it. the paff assembly did fitt but i had to modify it a little bit

In multi layers or thick leather move up one size from the needle size recommended. EX for V138 I normally use a #23 but in thick I would go #24. kgg

That would be amazing. If you do please let me know, and how much you are asking for them

Long ago I used to make Shotgun shell belts (20ga only) and I did a similar thing. On mine the loop was essentially "closed" and the shell had a stop of sorts that way. The bottom looks pretty similar, although with 2 slits showing per shell rather than your 1. What I used was a die that cut a piece for 5 shells at a time and stitched them to the belts. Usually a total of 4-6 and then I would stitch a flap that would cover the 6 and secure with a stud when folded down over. Basically fully enclosed from the elements. I got the pattern idea from a Russian shell belt 20 or 30 years ago. If I stop at my old shop sometime soon I'll take a photo. There's a 30 year old prototype still hanging on the wall....!!! EDIT: I guess I have the die that I used here at the new place:

Oh wow!! I've only been doing this for 6 years and I learn something new every day! Looks like I need to get some overstitchers. After you asked yesterday about the needles I started googling and read and I ended up ordering some new needles as well. My Class 26 takes 135x16 and I got DP tips. I noticed when I got home a lot of the needles I had were 135x17, which I read weren't the leather needles but for nylon and such as you mentioned. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

I bought some Uniters paint and primer and followed a step by step process I saw online with heat and sanding. On two test pieces, I have results I'm happy with. It took 4-5 coats, sanding, and heat to get there, but it looks professional. My previous project was edge painted with bad results. I just smeared it on and it looks far from professional Now that I can do this level of work, I'm much more excited about working with chrome tanned leather going forward. These are my first two attempts. One with two pieces and the other single. I don't feel like I have to hide the edges if I can do this good of job.

So the second oil is to draw the dye into the leather a bit more? Then finish? And thank you for that post, it's always good to hear how other people do certain aspects of leather work.

What you describe is exactly what I'm planning. My chrome tanned leather is floppy/spongy so I'm going to add a stiffener between the leather and the micro suede lining. I'm planning to terminate the lining edge on the outside edge of the stitching holes. This way the stitches will cover the edge of fabric and not be in the edge painting. the stitches going through the microsuede will probably keep all the fraying contained. I'm shooting for Hermes results with very little experience. I've spent a lot of time planning and will start the project tonight with gluing the stiffener to the leather.

Do you have any pictures off the pfaff on the 67? Thanks.

Darn it! Now thanks to you guys, I have to get off my lazy butt and make myself a tobacco pouch. Thanks for the inspiration.

HI @AlZilla thank you for this info. Should I make a new post or modify the original post?

I wrote the European distributor. They contacted the maker and said, "The manufacturer states that the thread is "M10", I hope this helps." She did not specify the thread pitch.

post some pictures. I once bought front shaft for my 29K71 restoration from College sewing in the UK and I remember the gear was very tight on the shaft but it worked. But I had the OEM gear.

Please post a good clear picture from front and and back of your machine .

Adler 69 should be the same and i once made an tension assembly of an pfaff 145 fit onan adler 67 Adler 67 68 69 167 168 and 169 all have the same tension assembly

I split this off an old topic since it really doesn't match up with that thread. Better to not mix topics in the same thread, especially old threads.

Thank you, this very helpful. do you mean that when sewing multiple layers of upholstery leather I should use a larger needle than the chart recommend? Thank you Ok thank you

Hello, Recently acquired and old adler (chandler) 67-gk373. The tension assembly on the front of the machine is a mess, to say the least. To get the original part (0067 000224) it's about $400 canadian. Ouch. Are there any alternative replacements that might work? There is an adler 69 assembly available from Amazon, but unsure if that would work. I tried searching here but couldn't find anything. But that could just be my incompetence at searching. Lol Thanks for your time!

2/3 oz "peanut" Bison inside, 4/5 oz veg outside. Fancy edge at the top will be "chocolate" gator

That's going to be a nice wallet. Is it chrome tan interior and veg tan shell? I just can't get a nice wallet. Functional, but nothing special and the pockets are always too tight.

Thank you. Should be able to improve the looks with a little more time than an hour also? Winters coming so maybe lots of time to expand on the idea.