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You've done a beautiful restoration on your machine! I have a gently used 545 that I think is a wonderful machine. I'm surprised that you found the parts for your modification, I rarely see anything for Pfaffs. Where did you find the decals?

I ve found it locally in Romania. At a mechanic

Before attempting to removing the bobbin assembly I would remove the bottom cover on the cylinder arm as you have a 50/50 chance that the tip of the needle fell down there. kgg

Quality content and users is why this forum is better than all the others. Thanks @Tove09Tilda for this well researched contribution!

Others will be along, but 12mm is pretty close to a half inch. I'd be looking at something like a Cowboy CB 4500. I'd think you're using pretty thick thread. I think the CB3500 is the same machine just with a shorter arm. Known genetically as a 441 clone, if that brand isn't available in the UK, something just like it is. Plenty of other capable machines but that's the one I'm most familiar with.

When I do rose petals ,I like the natural 'rounded' look on some of the petals, so I use a small beveller along the line ( i have a fave), and then turn the beveller right around and go along the same line giving it that ' rounded ' look. Perhaps practice that ? HS

Have you looked at the PDF attached to the first post? That seems pretty generic to me. You just need the measurements of the rifle in question. Maybe I'm not understanding something.

This topic wouldn't really "close". That's mostly for the For Sale section. Maybe tell us where you found it to help out the next guy looking for one.

That’s a beautiful machine. I just got a cb341 and our machines are very similar. Congrats and have fun man!

Found it! How can I close the topic? Thanks

I checked out a couple of YouTube videos. seems its a little hammer-like deal that just puts down the impressions then uses regular acrylic paints to color the impressions so its not really anything like a tattoo at all. No ink under the skin. Kind of gimmicky if you ask me, BUT its a way to learn, use and gain some real artistic skills and would look better IMO than a cut and paste laser image no matter how well executed. Sorry folks, I'll take the human effort over machines any day. If money weren't an object i would probably try it out but it is so i might try to recreate the idea with homemade tools. LOl a thick pointed stylus and a mallet. LOL after I wrote this i searched YouTube again, there is a video on how to make one out of a 60 dollar tat gun. so if you have the urge to try and don't want to spend a lot of money.......

Hi guys, In case anybody needs this info. On my 543 DLMN, I ve added needle feed. I made sure the bushings are there, and then you only need the needle frame rocking shaft and its linkages to the forward movement shaft,parts from a 545 and to increase the slot in the needle plate. My issue was that with the rubber coated feed dog and presser, the machine couldn't feed oily leather. Now it works beautifully. https://youtube.com/shorts/rnloVTpOTMM?si=CJgy8PEpiT6QMeQO Probably same scenario can be applied to Pfaff 143. The machine was completely rebuilt by me at the beginning and it is stitching beautifully my belts and notebook covers. It can handle thick threads, upper and bobbin, compared to my 169 Adler. Pics are from the rebuild. The parts for the needle feed were added after everything was assembled. A bit of planning needed but it went ok! Cheers, M.

Don Gonzales has some videos on saddle work if you use you tube.

Ah, is that so. Thanks for letting me know. It makes me feel a lot better because I didn't know the K6 was not a unison feed. Put that together with no reverse and it looks a lot less attractive. So that "loss" turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Cheers AIZilla, I do a little boat fishing and there's these things called sea anchors or drones. They are a conical tube, and I was wondering how the hell would I stitch one on a flat bed machine. The post bed machine seems like the perfect machine for that type of thing too. Also looks like it would be easy to add a platform around it if I needed a temporary flat bed machine.

Thanks Dikman, come to think of it I've never seen a used really heavy duty machine for sale, except through a dealer.

Another trading card, while under the weather.

Yep, that is their primary function, but the fact you can vary the speed is what makes them so useful. It is very difficult to make a single phase AC motor variable speed - grinders, lathes, drill presses etc - but by replacing the single phase motor with a 3-phase and adding a VFD you can adjust the speed on-the-fly with a simple potentiometer. My belt grinder, lathe and drill press have all been so modified, much better than changing belts to adjust the speed. I haven't, however, bothered with using such a setup on any of my sewing machines as the ubiquitous servo is perfectly adequate (and a lot simpler to set up).

Do not touch screw 1 + 2. Remove the 3 screws from the "bobbin case ring" and the ring (the 1/2 circle thingy) it self, hold the latch in the center and rotate it until it comes out. Underneath it is a screw in the center remove the screw and pull out the hook. When reinstalling it make sure you put it back in the right way - you have a 50% change to reinstall it the wrong way. 😉 Taking a look at the parts list may help you.

@TonyD1948, I moved this over to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. This is where the sewing machine types hang out.

I thought VFD's were to control 3 phase motors if only single phase was available

As far as saddle repairs, I think this is one of the easier ones. Post questions as they come up. Good luck, Randy P.S. Basketweave is eating her legs up? Is she riding in shorts?

Hello, I am interested in finding a pattern for a civil war type rifle..or generic pattern to fit most. I love to sew and my son loves giving me special projects. Thank you

Hi, (uk based) Looking for used sewing machine advice, I almost exclusively sew 3 layers of ~3mm thick veg tan leather (Sometimes 4 layers) for tool sheaths. I’ve got my head around some of the advice on here, in regards to walking feet and needle size. wondered if I could get some advice on Exact models to look out for that would handle this work with ease. any help is greatly appreciated, Oscar.

Broke my first needle today and the tip is not in the material, therefore I want to dig into the bobbin/hook area. This is my first cylinder arm and flat bobbin assembly. I'm assuming the bobbin assemble can come out as a unit and before I wade too far in I want to clarify: If I remove screws #1 I should be able to lift the entire guts out; If I touch #2 I'm messing with tension and since I'm into this 2 weeks I surely don't need additional fun which I'll get to down the road. And while we're at it, timing needle hook etc. These two pics are both sides of the clearance at the same time, just two angles. Since I've only had (1) looped stitch on the back in 3 bobbins worth of practice on scrap I really an not interested in opening that can'o worms! Talk to me people Thanks testing reply notification