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I guess that's the one Looks kind of normal screw, you can always but another one. It's the big rocker that is holding the needle bar, this screw is used just to tighten it. The only problem with is a screw could be un-tightening during the use, that you can probably solve with Loctite. I would be careful not to damage the thread inside the rocker. That is for sure much more expensive to change.

Dikman, this is the machine I was referring to. I am unable to see any further qualifiers past the 211 and wanted to see if someone might have come accross something similar and could share some insight. I appreciate you responding to my posting and if look forward to any further response after seeing the picture. Thanks, Mario

ok thanks

you never know Ppl are fickle and they might buy them for the novelty

Thank you !!

As I said, I doubt these will sell. Still likely to purchase a few more with my next temu order. The rivet looks like a more tidy choice, Seems the fewer stitches there are in a line, the less forgiving it is, aesthetically. If that makes any sense. Oh, and now I may just want to make a key-chain coin purse for Sweetheart. She doesn't like the 'app' used for parking downtown, and neither do I.

I hope you are proud to have earned the skills to allow you to build in such an innovative way! She is lucky to have you. It's often more difficult than it should be, to work with anything near the medical equipment world.

That is the coolest thing I have ever seen or heard!! You are an exceptional person and a brilliant thinker.

The numbers are just numbers to use as a reference, you'll probably have to make up a sample with different stitch lengths and write the corresponding number next to them. I've had to do that before.

Mario, we'll need more information as 211 by itself doesn't mean a lot. There will be many model numbers after the 211 which will indicate exactly what they're for and where they were made. The 211 series of machines are good machines - but that's all that can be said without more info/photos.

I picked up a large lot of Serafil Thread sizes 15,20,30,40 (Tex 210, 135,90 and 70). I have the most variety in the 40. Colors include blues, orange, black, brown, burgundy off white. I you have interest let me know what size and I can get a better inventory. This thread normally sells for around $15 per spool.

Or you could go olde-school and use a copper rivet.

I have no idea of the maker and their intended market. Can this be done better? It sure can and most of the suggestions and comments so far are right on. We can all agree on that. It may have come from a kit, may have been clicked out in shop with the holes as part of the die. Simple and easy for most anyone to put together. It's easy for us to evaluate and make a better wallet, but that is why we are here to help the OP. That said, there are some makers who target a market who prefer simple, rugged, or rustic. There is a guy who puts together wallets with copper rivets, lots of them. He has a market for that look. There are belt makers who don't slick edges. Seriously, people intentionally buy jeans with holes in them, why not an unslicked belt? Bag makers can leave raw edges. I carry a pony express satchel my wife made in Aaron Heiser's class at a show - heavier hardware, raw edges, etc. I got 4 or 5 comments in every airport last year. She made a turned seam construction purse at the leather show in Las Vegas, all of the inside seams are bound. Yes, the inside seams that nobody sees but the user - that is a high level of finish you don't see much. Is the simple look their target market for wallets? Are they selling upper end stuff and this is the base? Not uncommon in business to have a bare bones version to drive a higher end more finished product. The bottom price sets the top price. Lot to consider here.

I just get the double-sided sheets off an ebay seller It takes a bit of practice to use the sheets tho

yup, a double-cap rivet. They go by many names I like to use bright brass rivets with one domed head. I think it looks a bit more 'classy'

NO GLUE? OMG! I suspected that. You did the right thing by taking it apart... good experience and a chance to improve it.

Mostly I use Weldwood contact adhesive, especially on larger pieces. Sometimes I use white "leather glue" (PVA?) when the project isn't intended to undergo a lot of stress. Sometimes I use double sided tape, where all I need is to hold small or light pieces together while I sew or rivet. Contact adhesive can be messy and difficult to manage on small, thin pieces. You have to align the pieces accurately on the first try but it is very strong and long-lasting. White glue works here, but takes a long time to dry, which also gives plenty of time to align pieces. Where the tape shines is on thin leather where glue might leave traces.

I have tried a few different tools like the bone folder style but was never pleased. I just could never seemed get the right amount of pressure to give the detail I thought should be there. When I did get the pressure right I somehow always managed to gouge the leather. Probably just me. My solution, design another tool. I made a folder using stainless steel welded rings combined with 3D printed parts. Cost very cheap probably less then a $1 and other costs. kgg

Do you mean a rivet, where those four stitches are, @fredk? Like a double-cap rivet? I'm unfamiliar with the term ready-rivet

@LMP The cotton thread doesn't have a very long shelf life B4 it starts to weaken & start breaking when sewing,but Yes you can try it & the lube would help as long as it is rotten.

thanks

https://pastorbobleather.com/product/glock-17-22-31-pancake-holster-template-with-thumb-break/

Wow. One very large thread to hold the pocket down. At the very least you have a wallet to use as a template. There are a lot of youtube videos on making different types of wallets. Watch several different makers because everyone has a little different way of making their wallets. Corter leather is a good one, Don Gonzales is also very good.

Yes they do overlap a bit but Talas is one of the last companies I would buy from. I've priced their stuff for my books but when you factor in the shipping it makes it unfeasible. That $5 bone folder is $9 for shipping. I ordered $40 in bookcloth and the shipping was going to be over $30. Out of curiosity I added in some Davey's Board and the shipping went up to $71 through Fedex, they didn't give me any cheaper option to ship. So when looking at the "cheap" prices be careful of the shipping.

Probably a card stopper to prevent cards from being pushed all the way down to the bottom stitch.