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Most of those arent soldered. I doubt you would need to in this case, there is not a lot of weight on it. But if ya want to, then tin them first before putting them on the wallet, then it's just a matter of touching a hot iron to them for an instant. Beware, solder isn't the same color, so it will show, so you have to be careful tinning just the seam.

took the burb out for her shakedown run, it was a beautiful day yesterday, only in the 60s but no clouds and the leaves are changing big time lol. did you know Quaking Aspen stands are really one huge living organism not separate trees like pines and such. They grow from the roots of an existing tree so are all interconnected and actually the same living organism. You can see it in fall, as the colors change each stand changes at slighty diferent times and colors.

I remember scrolling past the post you quoted in the "All Activity" stream. It was there.

nfo and Feibings Golden Mink Oil its a water proofing and conditioner for outdoor gear.

On people not smoking.... maybe 1/3 of the people I've made pouches for in the last few years have now given up! Running joke is if you want to stop smoking buy a pouch off me

They look quite good well done, nice colours too 👍 I've stopped making tobacco pouches, no one is buying them or ordering them, which is no surprise considering the price of tobacco here in oz , anywhere from $70 to $ 120 for 50 grams. Glad I don't smoke HS

Ah, I just noticed the date in your quote, I missed it before, my bad. Makes more sense as I thought it odd that you being a mod and all would reply to a 13-year old post. But it did seem funny at the time.

Actually there was a post yesterday to this thread from Ahahn about pull the dot dies for a hand press. I quoted and replied to that. I don't see the post now. My fear now is that I my have have deleted that reply accidentally as I quoted it (most likely), or it was deleted by the poster (less likely).

Anybody headed to Wichita Falls for the Boot and Saddle Show? I'm finishing a saddle to take and will post some pictures soon. Randy

I use beeswax on my thread to help reduce fraying, needle tips and awls to ease the stitching, on my hole punches and corner punches. I don't use clicker dies, but if I did, I'd use it on them. In addition to being a lubricant, a small bit of beeswax on the fingertips aids in keeping my grip on the sewing needles, too. I also sometimes use it on my edges, or to slick the flesh side when it's needed. I have seen it used as a finishing coat, as well, but I haven't tried that myself, yet.

The design is a pretty simple one but personally I would check what products are designed to meet the safety standards related to fire clothing and equipment before applying anything. I am sure their are standards to cover-off any and all things a fire fighter has on their bodies. Also ensure the leather thickness and sewing thread meets those standards. This for me work be a project best left to those certified and insured to do that type of work. kgg

Hey Bruce, is that a record - 13 years to answer a question?

Thank you. The thickness from the head to the base of the Chicago screw including the silicone washers and the wallets leather is a touch over 1/4" at 0.2814961" or 7.15mm. Personally I like 6 stitches to the inch. kgg

When I'm soldering anything very close to plastic or leather I wrap a piece of wet cloth around the item, just slightly past the area to be soldered. That keeps the rest from getting too hot

You could. That would have to be done once it was through the leather. Depending on the heat source it could be a challenge to not singe the leather

you could solder/braze or whatever to join it and make it more secure

You can see on the bottom center that it's not joined in any way. Just bent into place. Easy to duplicate since it doesn't need or have any strength.

Welcome aboard. Whips interest me but by the time I look at the work and time involved, I just don't see myself going down that rabbit hole. Looking forward to your contributions.

I have to agree with you. Small spacing looks too busy.

I would use Neatsfoot oil and either wax or a couple of coats of Resolene 50/50

I did noticed but was so shocked at the so called repair. One thing that made me smile and wince at the same time was edge shaving the patch after it had already been stuck in place, was waiting for her to slip and damage the seat even more. About the use of tools I always say a mushroomed leather tool is a abused tool. Regards JCUK

Funny enough I had to replace some dressage billets last week the previous person who had done the, who I don't know not only machine stitched them way more than needed (not back stitched them) which led me to believe they were not sure of they were doing but also used a rivet too through the saddle webbing, never seen this before so before I started the repair I checked with the local tack shop who gave me the saddle if the owner wanted the rivets replaced too which they did, the webbing was still safe to use but I wanted a email saying the owner had said yes to the stitching and rivets before I started the repair. I meant to ask a the time of the previous thread concerning sliding reins by that do you mean draw reins. Regards JCUK The stitch used for saddle billets is called a back it gathers twice much of the webbing in one stitch. Regards JCUK

Hey all! I've got a customer that want's a radio strap that's basically raw veg tan leather like the one in the picture. My question is what's the best treatment to keep this looking nice? Just oil it or seal with something? Idea? Thanks Dean