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Sunstar 380BL, could anyone help me with threading this machine, its used of course, and the manual is not clear on proper threading. Thanks!

Thank you @Dwight for taking the time to explain how it was done. 😃 Now that you describe it, I can see how it was done that way. Like you say, a lot of work but it looks beautiful.

It is actually not weaving . . . there is a piece of leather over the front cover. . . with edge stitching The exterior layer of the front cover has a series of round holes making up the center of the design . . . and an off spaced set of slits . . . the leather comes up out of the center . . . over to the edge slit . . . back to the center . . . etc . . . until it is all done. The place where the little concho is . . . has a filler under it . . . and the leather strips just go in and out the same type holes on the edge of it. Actually a rather unique design . . . have never seen that before. After it was all done . . . I would think he probably made some kind of press mold that would allow it to be thoroughly wetted . . . and the press mold laid on top of it . . . let it dry . . . to get the depth around those stitches . . . and then contact cemented to the actual flap of the purse. Personally . . . I like it . . . but it is certainly one long piece of work. May God bless, Dwight

If you want a kit, you can get them on Amazon but if you will be making leather repairs frequently, if might make more sense to buy the basic items like Chuck says. The items in kits are fine for hobbyists but I think you will need better quality for your customers. For items like sheaths, Tiger or Rhino thread should work. The ones on Amazon you cannot depend on if the brand is unproven and unknown. For cutting, your box cutter is fine but change the blades if you are cutting any leather to repair. I know that you are a bladesmith so you might find it more convenient to get a leather knife and sharpen it a needed. Needles, John James, for finishing, Tokonole for the edges, Resolene, Supershene, Aussies and any others you might come across, for finishing the rest of the sheath. Search on this site. You will find plenty of information about them. If you have a leather store like Tandy's near by, you could go there. Their staff is sometimes very helpful although do come here and confirm what they say. Some of them try to push the products they carry even if not as good as others! Incidentally, to search on this site, use the following on google: Site:leatherworker.net search term Hope that helps a bit.

I found this pattern online and would like to learn how to do the pattern on the front flap. What type of weaving is it? I would appreciate any information.

So is the long groove of the needle facing the front?Do you have a manual for it?

Hi AlZilla, Thanks for the tip! I am not sure this option existed when I was on this forum last--Its been several years! Much Appreciated, ~Only

I would like to leave a huge shout out to Ryan Neel at, Neel Saddlery and Harness 12712 South Ave #5 North Lima, Ohio 44452 330-549-9904 I purchased a cowboy 3200 from a family member about a year ago and was struggling with the initial setup because he had passed and nobody knew about the changes he had made. Ryan helped me out even knowing I had not purchased it from him. Well today, 8/8/25, he spent the better part of 3 hours on the phone with me, AFTER he had closed, knowing I had an anniversary gift project due in 3 days, and my machine suddenly decided to act up. I was afraid either the hook was bad or it had gone out of time. He went through the whole thing with me via photo exchange and his step by step method of diagnosing and adjusting until he got it going. Turns out the roller of the primary tension had gummed up while setting since its last use. I would never have thought to check that specific item. But between my pics and his questions he narrowed it down to that and then went through all the settings until its now throwing perfect stitches again. He really got my bacon out of the fire, and I will do my business with him until I sew no more. You should too. Customer service is a lost art and we need to support anyone that still goes the extra mile to help someone in a bind. Thanx Again, Ryan

OK, so it took a bit of fettling but from what I've learned ALL binders need some fetting. For starters, in my ignorance I asked for the wrong folder and it was too small. I had a couple of this type to play with and they seemed a bit simpler. Took a bit of working out to get it in the right place whilst retaining all the up/down backwards/forwards options. I also wanted to keep the original bits in case I need them later. Yay! My first ever bind. not perfect yet but definitely progress. I won't show you the back side just yet

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Hi Ola, How is this machine with sewing leather? I have the opportunity to buy one for a good price.

Hello, I have already searched this forum and none of what I found helped. I am running a JUKI 1541s, when I insert a new bobbin and rotate the hand wheel the needle will pick up the bobbin thread. Once I start sewing it will no longer pick up the bobbin thread, just leaves a nice row of empty holes and the thread in the needle is frayed like crazy. When I take the plate off so I can see the hook and turn the hand wheel it seems to work fine, the hook picks up the thread every time. I have re-threaded the machine, changed the needle (135x16 size 23), lubricated the machine including the bobbin and hook, checked the hook timing and spacing, the hook is turning so its not clutch issue. The needle is in the correct way, I am holding the thread for the first few stitches, I have played with both upper and lower tension. Any ideas? So frustrated!!!!! Could it be the needle is to big? I am currently running Mandala bonded Nylon #138 with a #23 needle. I have ordered smaller needles, but could that be the issue?

Thanks @friquantand @CowboyBob. Turning it clockwise and the feed moves the leather backwards. It doesn't pick up the bobbin thread anti-clockwise. I'll do some photos/video tomorrow.

Moved your post to General Saddlery Discussion. When you are making a post or answering a post, below the area you type in is an area specifically for adding files to your post. jpeg or jpg or png are the best picture files to use. Resize to 800 pixels in the longest dimension if your files are too large.

I hate to ask,but are you sure your turning it the right way?

Hi everyone. I'm doing my research and trying to gain as much information about my saddle. It was made by Milton Cole. I'm considering selling it, but I want to be sure it's priced accordingly and hopefully find a collector that would really appreciate it's history. I know it was made prior to 1951, but I don't know the year. I have photos, but I don't know how to insert them here.

I don't have any experiece with a Pearson #6, but if you can post some videos of what you're seeing maybe someone here can make sense of it. In general if it picks up the thread when there is no material under the foot, but doesn't pick up the thread when there IS material under the foot, I would think it's a timing issue. Just speculating. On my vertical-shaft machine I can take the cover off the bobbin and watch the hook go around and see it drag the thread around the bobbin. You may be able to do something similar with your setup to figure out what/when it's missing.

I think it is primarily for cooling.

thank you, Pastor Bob thanks Northmount

Might try buffing it with a micro fiber rag. Then get some mink oil or other type of conditioner to rub into it, then wipe off with a white microfiber rag. Repeat process until white rag no longer shows blue.

Hello Can anyone help with this please? Just can't figure it out. The needle will pick up the thread but it doesn't make stitches. Thanks.

Thank you AlZilla Indeed we will. We could not believe how much force it needed to get back into place. She is purring like a kitten. . Ron and I are happy it’s fixed. It was a stressful week. Thank you again everyone for the great suggestions. All the best