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Very sharp!

Oh it happens. The method that works best for me is to make sure to let the dye dry for longer than you would think. A full day or so. Then, if hand stitching, I will use about an extra 2 feet of thread. The extra thread will pick up most of the dye when sending the needles through the holes, then you can cut off the excess when finished stitching. It isn't foolproof, but does minimize the dye on the stitching in the holes. Good luck.

lol I've done that!

Teaching a class of students of all ages is a blast when they are there to learn, not forced, but wanting to be there. It is a joy to see their eyes light up as they learn new things and even begin turning their imagination into something real on leather. Thanks for taking the time to teach the next generation of crafters.

That is super sharp. About time to get the bows out for hunting. Can't wait.

Always fun to see what you come up with. Very handy addition to the pocket!

pancakes are mostly used for folding knives, so dont need a welt. For a non folder make your welt thinner than the blade so there is some tension built in.

I would say kangaroo lace would be a good choice. As it is strong & don't stretch much.

@Steve75 I fully agree that we should continue to share knowledge and especially to someone who is new to the forum. Generally I think there is a very civilised and helpful tone in here which is just as it should be :-) It is just that I am genuinely puzzled: Did the OP expect another answer?, Should we have offered more help? Was the OP in reality looking for a turnkey operation business plan to make a fortune making holsters? I guess it is just that I always gets so astonished when people don't acknowledge that someone is trying to help them. A simple "thank you" would suffice. Just plain old fashioned regular courtesy. Brgds Jonas

I hear you, but I feel like we should never miss a chance to share our knowledge. While the original poster may not ever respond someone else might happen on the thread and respond to it/learn from it. I learned a lot from just reading the old threads before I posted my introduction thread. The responses I read provided me priceless insight and caused me to join and even work up the courage to share some of my work.

Go with what you know to be the better construction; use a welt

The tool in the centre looks a bit like a rivet setter as I can see a notch in the middle ? HS

I have an order for a knife sheath, pancake style, for a knife that the customer provided for me to use in custom fitting. I have made sheaths for things, and I know that a welt is a good thing to protect the stitches. I've found a few patterns for pancake style sheaths, but they usually seem to be two pieces of leather glued together and stitched ... with no welt. I was thinking three layers? the middle layer is the welt?

What material is it? It looks like it may have been what they used as a strop. Tandy has a white jeweler's rouge that looks similar when applied and used.

@Cumberland Highpower yup that 335 is set up for binding. yeah you guys are right, I shouldn't gamble with my hard earned money, I'll go the safe route and buy the 341 locally. I'll post some pictures over here when It arrives in -several months- ! thank you!

The thing on the left is a swivel knife sharpening jig. The thing in the center, .

You asked a similar question elsewhere, but try this: https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/leather-cord/

If you're using a drill press, be careful applying pressure radially to the bearings (i.e. pressure in the plane of the support table). This will likely cause your bearings to wear out if you do that a lot. Drill presses are designed for "up and down" pressure, but not "left and right" or "forwards and backwards" pressure. Some sharpening systems use a spinning disk are probably fine (basically up and down pressure), but using a drill press as a drum sander is not recommended.

I googled "waxed leather cord" and found a lot of stuff that looked like it could be used for necklaces ... where else did you look? Etsy had a lot of them also.

Yep, me too. I got all excited about all the features on my new wiz-bang first servo and Wiz's comments on analog/brush servos with only a speed control knob had me thinking he needs to move with the times. It's only as I've gained more experience that I've realiised he was right all along. If I could get hold of one of those it would be no big deal to modify it to move the knob away from the motor and near the head unit. That would be an ideal setup. Meanwhile I'll stick with my el-cheapo servos and home-made speed reducers as the Kinedyne motor is not going to do anything better, in fact I suspect my setup is better for my needs as I will get more low-end torque with the reducer. Plus it gives me the ability to tweak the operation by changing the pulley sizes to give me even slower speeds with even more torque if needed.

Nice blogs regarding cutting/punching boards Bruce. Regarding glass, I have the top off a pair of bathroom scales, it's toughened glass and very smooth but only about 15" square. Still very handy for all sorts of things.

Happy 4th of July

I was going to say nice and simple - until I saw the back! Nice job.

The 335 in your top photo looks like it's a clone based on a new type casting Pfaff.(I guess is obvious) I've no experience with "Typical" machines or many clones in general, but the Pfaff 335 is a pretty decent machine for some/most of the work you're looking to do. Most of the Pfaff 335 machines were set up for binding work, but not all. I'm guessing the Typical probably follows the same trend? Dont buy one set up for binding. I've owned Pfaff 335's and I could run 138 top and bottom, same with my Seiko LSC-8 machines. The narrow cylinder arm comes in handy sometimes, but being lazy would prefer the top loading bobbin. Some (many) of the top loaders use larger bobbins anyway and you'll probably like that. Might be a consideration and something ELSE to dwell on. I've done allot of really fine (beautiful) work on my Seiko LSC's...Some work that you might struggle to do on others, but I don't particularly love how the bobbin loads. In fact, I'll use other machines at times just so I can avoid having to reload bobbins. I'd still opt for the "Typical" 318 version (if it were me). But lots of good choices mentioned here.

Maybe they will drop their price if you say "I can import one myself for $XXX." There is quite a bit of difference dollar wise (1916-1124= $794) but as @Cumberland Highpower has noted for the first time / novice buyer having no support could be a bad gamble. I think you will be very disappointed with the ability / performance of the 335. I would steer clear. To bad Jin doesn't do cylinder arms. Jin is the Juki line of "budget" machines. kgg