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From the lace at the top to the binding on the bottom, the first finger measures 5 3/4" long, all the way across. I can't see inside to see the details. It sounds like you're making a new glove?

You should be able to play with your settings to minimize the charring. I keep a box of what would be throwaways for trial and error work. lol

It would be handy if there were a cross reference for beehive tension springs. You know, free length, diameter at base, diameter at top, and force when fully compressed. You can of course bend your own from music wire.

Interesting...Can you send photos of the pieces of leather that comprise a single finger stall?

I'm assuming you only need one. And as others have said, VFD is a convenient electronic solution to get 3-phase.

This is kinda what I use. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Equate-Self-Adhering-1-Elastic-Bandages-2-Count/804779067?classType=VARIANT&athbdg=L1102&from=/search I actually use vet wrap which is used for horses and 4 inches wide. I just cut one inch strips of it. Same stuff. JM2C, Jim

I'm looking for information on this leather cutter I bought from an old cobbler's estate sale. Is there a special use for it? It has an approximately 34 cm deep throat and 20 mm gap on the jaws. There is a long handle, so it can deliver a lot of cutting force. It has a swivel base that can rotate 360 degrees around and pivot 90 degrees forward or back. The maker logo is so worn I can't make out the name. All info appreciated. Thank you.

Truth!!

Just came across this on FacePlant:

I am only telling you my experiance. I used a metric thread gauge and it matched exactly. Then I took one screw that there were 2 alike and tried a metric nut on and it fit just as good as on the metric screw. SO, if that worked here it might work for some others on at least some screws. These were from machines that had never been touched. Some were from a machine my mother bought NEW almost a 100 years ago. If you look at and read the link you sent me you will see that what I said is true. it SAYS MANY of the singer screws match other systems. SOME do not.

Private message sent.

I am working on sewing the finger stalls on a baseball glove. Two pieces make up the back of a finger so there is a welted seam directly down the middle of the back of the finger. The two pieces that make up that seam are sometimes not equal length to create a "3d" curve in the back of the finger. I hope that makes sense, kind of hard to explain in words. My initial assumption would be that they would have to be the same length and the actual curve cut into the piece creates that "3d" curve. But I have also been told that it is normal for those pieces to be different lengths to create that "3d" curve. So maybe I am chasing the answer to an incorrect statement, and they both should be equal lengths. Just looking for any advice or clarity. And if anyone has done this before or something similar with another type of project.

not sure what you mean... Is it that your last stitch is probably to long and not hitting the 1st needle hole where the seam began? If so then you can shorten the stitch with the reverse lever and hand crank the last stitch - if you know what I mean.

What are you making that the three pieces wouldn't be the same length? 4 ounce leather really doesn't have any stretch that would lend itself to easing unequal lengths, at least as I understand easing from doing it with fabric. I'm going to move this to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum.

Thanks again everybody. MERRY CHRISTMAS to everybody. WUTA 3.85. I bought these from PacoLeathercraft on Etsy.

It was an experiment to see if it could be done and how well it did it. As to why - I could lay out a whole sheet of leather on my laser bed and cut out the body and score several different tooling patterns very quickly while I did something else. And they'd be just as accurate as a clicker. You dont lose any skills as far as tooling goes because the scoring only replaces the transferring of the pattern to the leather. You still have to follow up with your SK, and tool it out as normal. It just gives you another tool in your box to create different affects as well as it can increase your productivity. The downside is now you have to deal with some charring on the edges which throws a little curve when trying to bevel and burnish.

I've been using electrical tape. Probably because I'm an electrician and I have plenty around here.

Beautiful work!! If you don’t mind me asking, what stitching chisels do you use?

not sure where how you figured that but I have different experience (I´m living in a metric country). Maybe someone overcut the original threads on your machines. Nothing really metric I´d say: https://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/technical/parts/screw_threads/

I realize this post started a long time ago. BUT, I have worked on 29k and 31k15 machines and much to my surprise, haven't found a screw yet that doesn't match a metric size. Both thickness and thread pitch. Get a metric thread gauge and see if the ones you need match.

I am looking for some help learning how to ease a seem when sewing leather on a 1341. Specifically, a welted seam, where I have a stack of 4 ounce leather, 4 ounce 3/16" welt and 4 ounce leather. Each of the 4 ounce pieces have a curve but the seam lengths could be different, but I need start with pieces even and end with pieces even. I have done this with pieces that are the same length but having trouble with the ones that are not the same length. Thanks

Just adding SOLD as the next comment is all you need to do. Then a moderator picks it up and moves to old/sold and locks it so it can't be commented on further.

Hi, Jup - a VFD is the way to go in your case. Just remember though - in Europe most all 3-phase motors run on 380 Volts. But you can change their configuration so they run on 220 Volt 3-phase. If you want to run a VFD from 220 Volt sigle phase - you will have to also adapt to 220 Volt 3-phase which means that you have to re-arange the brass bars in your wiring different. Wiring for 380 Volts will have the bars connecting U and V and W connected to each other in line. To run 220 Volts you have to connect R to U and S to V and T to W. Only takes a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 7mm socket/nut. Best ya get someone to show ya how it´s done properly. VFDs from Chinesistan ya can buy via EBAY for around 80€ - best buy one that exceeds the current draw of the motor. Greetings from Germany Tigweldor

@Zol, Thank you for your interest in the machine and for sharing the link. The machine has already been sold but unfortunately I have got less than zero idea how to move this post to Old/Sold. @Northmount - would you mind to bother with this, like, again..? You seemed to have some magical powers last time. Or does a "SOLD"- kind of comment suffice for any of the moderators to step in and close the topic? Thank you guys for your support and Happy Holidays everyone Cheers, Grace

I don't want to irritate anyone bumping an old thread but I was doing a deeper study of variations on scroll work and really enjoyed this that was posted 3 years ago. It's another I've chosen to download the pics just to look at in a personal, private study gallery of my own, as inspiration and variety. Thanks to FrenchMich