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I moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is where the machine guys hang out so you are more likely to find answers here.

Have you read my article about how to post photos to our forum?

Hello Guys, im looking for leather Needles for my Adler 220, 7x23 needle System, i found out that 328 Needles have very close specs (length, end to eye). Did any one try this, or is there adjustment on the machine necessary? Thanks!

Recently, I was given this sewing machine. From what I have been able to figure out (not much) is that it's a Consew Model 28 made by Seiko as well as a copy of the Singer 78-3. It's on a Singer Table which appears to be in great shape. I'd like to figure out more. Age? It's the dark olive matte green finish with a black line above the black base. I'd like to restore and use. Any oil recommendations beyond the premium sewing machine oil? Anything need grease? Any idea of the age? I've scoured Google using "Consew Model 28" and only really 2-3 pictures appear in this vintage. Who do I contact at Consew regarding the serial number? Any tips on restoring table? It's age? What is the best think to do to the table top. Any instructions that come with this table? Large factory pin holes found in 4-5 locations on top. Motor maintenance? Can anyone identify the walking foot on this machine? Finally, can anyone explain the weird letter arrangement on this machine? Appears to be two different similar styles of letters. Appreciate any advice, tips and even some criticism. Noah Consew 28 Operating Instructions.pdf

The single star on the front and the 3 on the back are holographic so they change color. The silver may work because one of the trees on the back is silver but it would break continuity with the other Tolkien books I plan to make.

There is no lifetime limit, and the upload limits are pretty broad. Post away!

The "bar" is the lever for knee or foot lift. Pfaff 27/28 and Adler 48 are very similar, you'll find the manuals online.

If so, then I would suggest using two narrow silver lines, to correspond with the silver start in the middle, It would make the gold stars and the Elvish script stand out more that way. (I can't really see if the star is silver or a very light ice blue, but I would use that colour) Brgds Jonas

@paintpony7417 Neatsfoot oil and sunlight. Daily "wear and tear" will in my experinece quickly darken a piece. Brgds Jonas

Something doesn't sound right about that. Maybe @Johanna could look into it. I don't think there's a lifetime limit or anything like that.

or maybe Bison Brown in eco flo.

Try just E-mailing your high-Res. pic's to yourself . Your email will most likely resize them automatically down from a large MB size, to usable smaller KB size. plus it will also convert it to a jpg format . When you open your email, just drag that resized jpg Pic. off your email right to your desktop . Then just drag or attach that smaller KB size jpg Pic. to your forum Post with using the ( choose files option ) in the lower L-corner of your screen. .

Thank you. Please tell me if you have anything.

I posted a picture some time ago and since I didn't know how to resize them it took up all my allowance and can't post anymore. BUT if someone would message me I would text them to them and they could post them for me. I am NOT very digital so have trouble posting some things.

I don't have any experience with this motor. I have been using analog servo motors exclusively since about 2012 or 2013 I still have my previous digital motor with the gradient light beam disrupter wafer in a closet in my trailer.

It looks to me like those parts are likely the same as on an Adler 20-2. I have a 20-2 and have extras of some of the parts you need.

I think I mentioned somewhere that I may have one.... Will check later.... heading to work now...

I am in need of a gear for my 29k machine. It is the one that goes inside to drive it with the wheel on the front. The hub is there. but a previous owner took out the shaft and gear. Has anyone found a gear that size on Amazon or anywhere else? Or made a gear. The singer number is 81869. I can make the shaft and adapt the gear if needed it just needs to be right tooth number and diameter.

I have a complete singer shuttle race for the class 7 not sure if it will fit I have some other bit but have to look for them.

Still can’t find manual that shows pic of machine .. what do you think that bar in vertical position on back of machine is ? I’m not sure why I can’t see pic in manuals that I found , I’ll keep looking thanks guys , if anyone comes across manual with pics could u post please so I can see . Maybe I’m really computer illiterate.😕

Thanks

Love it

Thanks! No issues with copyright. With rebinding as long as I dont make changes within the text block I'm safe. So I can't add my own art or any extra pages inside the text block. I can add things on the back and front though. I can't recreate any Tolkien, Warner Bro, or Amazon art. Even their elvish script is protected. Thankfully a guy made his own "elvish" script that he gives permission to all to use for private and commercial work.

@kgg, Thats $17 AUD if you are a member . I think its quite reasonable for a needle that needs to be specifically made to order and then bought in batches of 1000 only to sit on a shelf for 10 years or so. Landis goodyear welting machine needle cost me about the same and are prone to breaking more often . One of my supply reps once said to me after complaining about the cost of materials . Don't think of what it costs , think about the money it will make you . Fair point . My accountant said to me once after i complained about the amount of tax i have to pay . If you have to pay a lot of tax it means you made a lot of money That's good not bad . Compared to the time it takes to hand stitch as opposed to using the machine a $17 needle is fine by me .

Like Chuck said neatsfoot oil will soften and darken. Adding to much oil can turn your leather into oily mush, so take it slow. Do a few test pieces from the same leather you'll be making the headstall. The dye looks to be Fiebings Pro dye in dark brown When I do a vegtan headstall I tool it then add pure neatsfoot oil, you dont need a lot just enough to dampen the leather. I let it set in for a few hours then apply dye. The neatsfoot oil will act as a carrier for the dye and help it spread evenly. Let that set for a day. If its still stiff I work the leather a little. I roll it up with the skin side up and again flesh side up, I do this a few times. If it's still stiff add a little more neatsfoot oil. If it's not dark enough add another coat of dye. After dying it a second time it may be stiff. Just work the leather and it should soften. If not add a little more oil.