Trox

Got those guides on all of my machines, can't live with out them anymore. Especially, I like the option of attachment you can use on these. Like welting, zipper and center guides (for French seams) etc. Just fold it up and out of the way when you don't need it anymore, a real simplifier and time saver.

I use the same guide on my 441 with a self made adapter, made before I have seen Uweˋs solution on the hand foot lifter.

The Adler 67 can use all the same parts as the newer 167, part from the hook. However, lots of aftermarket parts for this machine.. Uses the same presser foot as the following: Adler and Duerkopp Adler machines 69, 68,167,168,169, 267, 268 and 269. Pfaff uses a different presser foot. Kwokhing.com have many different presser foot that fits your machine along with other parts. No worries.

What makes those real time systems expensive is that they need a GSM phone card subscription along with the GPS system. Then the system will send you lots of SMS or emails with updated position (on time intervals, one a minute or so). Then of course it's a computer program that manages it all and display it graphically on your GPS receiving unit. This is how most of these such systems works today. Then the GPS unit is also backed up with GSM position and need of coverage of Mobil internet (for greater accuracy) . It's all in one package and it's a limit of how many collars you can use on one system. It's much used on hunting dogs here where I live.

I will echo Keplerts, those Weaver master tool punches are not bad. It's not easy to find good new punches anymore. And the new CSO ones are not near the quality of the old ones was. There might be something old stock in good shape too, check with moderator Bruce Johnson he sell nice old ones in good condition. Tor

Nice machine. But nobody makes a autofeed machine for those good old copper rivets.

It also seems like you have to clean up your sharpening wheel whit the dressing tool. Same tool that is used to square up any bench grinding stones, it normally a part of the skiving machines tool box. Sparks will fly and you will shape up your sharpening wheel angain. Campbell Randall (above) have both the tools you need. CampbelRandall, I need to buy a proper deburring tool myself. My round stone has worked well but it's a bit risky because it can break off. Do you have it in stock. Tor

You always have to grind both side of any knife. I use a round long grind stone for deburring the inside of the bell knife and finishing of by grinding both sides simultaneously- stop at the ecaxtly same time. This way you will not create burrˋs on any side of the bell knife. Campbell Randalll USA and Fortuna Werke service (on facebook) both sells that de-burring tool. Tor

Hi, I know this is an old topic. I have an old 236W-100 standing around that are missing these same belt you talking about. I do not know what I'm going to do with this machine, I got it for free myself. I tried to give it away a couple of times without luck However, I guess it would be easier with a working machine. I might also use it for some delicate work myself, I sure like the look of the head. Reminds me of the style of 1950-60 ties USA, it looks like and old tractor or a cartoon space ship Did Bob find the belt for it. Thanks Tor

Hi Contabulary, yes "discreet", but on the Adler you could adjust easier the hitting same holes when backstitching. Like the paper trick on the hitting the same holes in reverse the on 441 clone. (in short, lots of adjusting/ pain in the ..... to solve it doing it by the manual) The "old fashion" look of the Adler system took care of that in a easy way. Anyway, hitting the same holes in reverse is normally not any big problems on bottom feed machines. By the way, you all did a great job restoring that Textima skiver. Tor

Hi Uwe. yes I know that manufacturing several with the same precision is a challenging task. All things sell slow in the beginning, before the customers know they exist and that they need it. Remember how many different 441 clones there are and all the other types of machines that are based on the same head. Like sewing automats, bartacker...You name it. And it belongs in every 441 saddlers attachment pack do you ask me. After I installed this guide my favorite setup is the slotted plate and harness presser foot. Sewing leather with smooth feet and feed dog the needle does most of the feeding anyway, the feed dog is more a problem than help most of the time. You already have a Ebay store and a web site selling part, ask your manufacturar. I think you will get rid of a lot more than 30 pieces, perhaps some of the companies selling these machine want some of them too. If the price is right, that goes for everybody of course. By the way, the seller of this original Ferdco guide had two guides for sale. The other one had a round needle hole instead of the diamond shaped one that I bought, but they where both original ferdco parts he ensured me. I bought this one because it looked like the original illustration of the part from ferdco.This was some time ago and I would guess the other guide is sold now too. I think there was a description about the diamond shaped needle hole in the patent papers of this part, I cannot remember what it was anymore. I can understand the idea behind it this shape , but I do not think it will have enought practical avantage for the extra cost to make it like that. Some very nice part you got in that Ebay store, I specially liked that solution of the foot lift allowing a roller guide and the flat 441 Adler style needle plate. Looking very good those flat bed attachment too. Keep up that nice job! Tor

HI Brian, It would not be to hard to make this lower guide out of a L angle iron or something, you can do most of the job with a bench grinder, drill press and/or a Dremel tool. It does not matter if it's soft steel, yes you can even try to harden it when it's finish. It's not a very complicated job. Our we can ask the Hightex/ Cowboysew.com to make it. They are always looking for new products, mostly machines that is. But it does not hurt to ask, the worst that can happens is getting a No Having such part installed or in their accessories would be a business advantage, they already have every thing else for these machines. It's a very useful accessory indeed. Tor

Thanks for posting Uwe, I was lucky to find a second hand Ferdco lower N guide. My machine has worked flawless with special needle plates since I installed it. My toothed feed dog is hollow beneath so it was impossible to modify it (see pics). I would not be any material left if I did the same thing with mine as Uwe did. The toothed one might come in handy sometimes too, if I had not stumbled over the Ferdco guide I would have bought another toothed one for modernizing (a more rigid one of course). I also reduced the hight of my bag (stirrup) plate, this way I have more lift when using it and better material support (for my needs , that is). My machine did not function well with that high plate and skipped stitches frequently, it worked much better with the reduced hight.. and later with the lower guide....flawlessly. Tor

Hello Adler fans, I haven't read all the post in this topic. Here is an resource for old Adler documentation http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html Quite a few old Adler 20 has turned up for sale lately, it's a couple for sale here in Norway at the moment too; and the prices has dropped pretty much the last years. In the German pdf below you can see what classes/subclasses they made, what year and so on. Some of the cl. 20 had a "monster" foot lift of 40 mm but only bottom feed and jump foot (spring loaded presser foot, not driven). The one with alternating presser foot, 20-19 has only 16 mm foot lift. VanRhodes, I have a little white (very fine) ceramic sharpening stone I use to fix burrs /chips in hook tips. Remember that a feed dog also works as a "lower needle guide" making sure the needle is not pushed away from the hook and cause skipped stitches. I saw yours was not compleete, the needle can be pushed away from the hook (by the material, thread tension and so on). Those cl. 20ˋs are very strong machines but you got to custom make some pressers for them if you going to use them for leather work, the original ones are very big and clumsy. Happy Eastern, Tor hist_kl-1.pdf

Thank you all! That's just what I want to hear Uwe, thanks. We are going to order some stuff from Kwokhing. I have their new catalog and there are more stuff there for the Juki machines than online. Nothing for the DNU 241 H machine, but a lot of stuff for the 15xx series machines. We compared my Pfaff 345 feet and the only thing that did not line up was the screw hole in the outside foot. It affect the height of the foot of course. Again thanks Uwe, very clever searching the Ebay, why didn't I think of that myself

Hi, a friend has a Juki 241 flatbed (triple feed) sewing machine and he wonder what other newer Juki model that uses the same presser foot. The presser foot looks like the same types used in Pfaff 335, 1254, 345 and so on. And many Singer models, it has that outside foot that goes inside a split presser bar. As you we'll understand he is looking to buy some aftermarket pressers for his machine, like left/right toe and so on. In advance thank you. Tor

Campbell Randall has pressers and feeding wheels for skiving machines, the feed roller are sold on width, 50 and 30 mm (and more) they are pretty universal parts that fit most skiving machines ( Chinese Fortuna clones). I have a steel wheel that I'm using on vegtan and heavier leather, stone wheel for upholstery type leather. My machine has a suction/exhaust system and I never had this trouble with any of my feed wheel. Tor

Hi, this is my opinion, the value of the die is determined based on demand. Most clicker dies are custom jobs based on a particular patterns, the universal dies are most in demand. Like dies for belts, different size squars and holster dies are easy to sell. Spesial dies and shoemaking dies etc. not so much. I have a big box full of shoe making dies and I do not even want the trouble to sell them. Of course the quality of steel and construction adds value, but only if somebody needs it. I think there is a Facebook group about trading dies, it's a closed group but it is out there and you might apply for membership. There are other groups for selling leather tools like " leather tools for sale" and "leathertools for sale trade or collect" One is open and the other wants membership. Anyway, I find these groups easy to sell and buy everything connected to leather work. It's no auction, cost free and with paypal pretty safe. Especially the first group were the moderator has done a good job to exclude bad users/scammers. Many people out there looking for second hand clicker dies my self including, take some pictures of the die on top of a meter ruler and post them in the Facebook group. Good luck Tor

Hi Allan, I do not think there will be competition over such knife. It would be nice to get my plough all original, but mine is unmarked and have replaced parts already. The gradings/scale on ruler is also pretty worn out, perhaps I will get in good working condition and pass it on to others. I bought a good portion of tool to a good price and got a portion of Norwegian saddler history with it. You cannot find much information about that now a days. I know we had a unique way of making horse harness here in Norway and you can tell a lot about a craft man studying his tools. I have also been promised copies of working drawing on all from chairs to saddles from the same old company. I look forward to that and I will do my best secure that history for further generations. You are right about the German tool makers, they often made such clean skin tools, stamped them with their customers brands for further sales. I have not heard the same about the French, I think they mostly used their own brands marks. However, in the older days there where tool makers in every back yards making tools for other suppliers. I belive my plough is made by the same tool makers as yours, a possible German maker with the phoenix bird brand. I have not bought any tools on Ebay for a long time, and yes I too know how it is to live far away with large shipping expences; I buy a lot from the USA. We talk later. Tor

Hi Allan, I see you have found a plough with the same phoenix bird stamp as on my round knifes. I always suspect them to be of German orgin, I also hav another knife (a cornette or French pattern knife) with the same handle material and made exactly the same way. That has only the inscription "Gesmiedet" which is German for forged. There was also a unmarked plough in the same tool lot as the round knifes, that look exactly like yours (pic). Apart from some changed out parts: The steel guide between the ruler and the material guide, who protects the ruler from screw markings among other tings. I put that piece in my self along with the home made locking thumb screw (I will make another one like yours later) Then the knife is of another German brand (Langenhans, I believe). When you look on the details on it, it looks exactly like yours. I always thought it to be German. It was also very common to buy German tools here before, still is when it's awailable. Other stuff in the lot was of German orgin too. I never seen a bigger collection of plougs than yours Allan, do you collect other leather tools as well. There was also a newer Blanchard 20 cm plough in the same tool lot, in very good condition. Together with half a dusin more or less used up Blanchard plough gauge knifes (no Vergez only old stock Blanchard). A good plough will survive at least ten knifes and the Blanchard has always been there to deliver spare knifes. Since most of the other European plougs are copies of theirs (part from the UK ones) Blanchard knifes could be used in most of them. I'm sure thats the reason for your missing knife. I'm not sure but I can imagine that many European tool makers that copied Blanchards tools where careful to do so after the big "copycat" trial between the house of Blanchard and Mayer Flamery. It ended in favor of the house of Blanchard. Perhaps that's the reason there was some brands that only made a few tools like that, I'm only guessing here Nox, If I have not told you before, thank you very much for your post and pictures. It been of big help and is very interesting reading, for sure.

Ok, two lines and ground yes. Then it's just clicking away. Good luck, Tor

HI, Like mentioned by others in an earlier post there are different color machines of the 1245, first one gray color, then yellow and current model is white. The current white 1245 is different from the older ones. The exterior is very different but I do not think they are very different inside. However, the new one might also be produced in China. Perhaps not all the new white ones are produced there, but today's machines most likely is. I do not know for sure where they are produced, China will be my guess. When it comes to spec on the new machine, these are avaiable on Pfaff industrial http://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/applications/naehen/lederwaren I do not think is much different in thread/needle size, bobbin size or foot lift between old and current version. Nevertheless, I cannot be sure before I go in and compare the machine leaflets. Im sorry but do not have these data in my head, I belive you also will find documentation on the old type in Pfaff´s web site. When it comes to quality the old gray machines was better made that the later yellow same looking model. However, what it gains in quality it looses on age/usage. Anyway, if you find a old Grey machine in good condition you have a machine for life. Tor

Every AC motor are originally 3 Ph, if it runs on single Ph it's rewired like in my picture above. (Or a little bit differnt) If the motor has a capacitor or two like mine (the white plastic cylinders) it's rewired for single Ph current. I'm talking about AC motors, DC motors (servo motors) are different, they are not used on machines like this (very expensive when they get this big). When a AC motor is rewired for single Ph it looses a bit torque, but it's always normal to use a bit bigger motor than neccessary when they build machines like these. Therfore, changing the motor will (narmally) not be necessary, just rewire the existing motor like in my example. By using two big capacitors, enough startup torque is stored in them to get the motor running (startup) like normal. When a motor is a bit to small for the aplication, it will struggle to make the startup. Fuses will blow and so on. Get hold of a couple of big capacitors on Ebay and get an electrician to rewiring the motor with them. Mine are on 50 micro farad each and will work fine on motors from 750 to 2000 Watt. A electrician can calculate what power your clicker needs too, but my setup looses minimal power on a 1,2 Kw motor. It's not a big expensive job. Frequency converter/drives are only neccessary when you need to regulate the speed (or other aprameter) on the motor. They are quite expensive too, no need for such on a clicking machine. Tor

Hi, These are knifes for the French plough gauge Blanchard and will also fit most other French and German ploughs of Blanchard pattern. Knifes are sold separately and together with rest of the tools because they do not last as long as the rest of the tool. A new knife like that is 47 Euro @ Vergez Blanchard, but the old steel stamped "Blanchard a Paris" is much better. Here you see some different types of plough gauges, your knifes will fit the two tools from bottom right. The English type of ploughs, Dixon and other (left two from bottom). Uses a other style of knife. Your middle knife have not seen much use, lots of blade left on it. When they get to short they will not ride far enough up against the roller of the tool and have to be changed out. All yours are still usable after some cleaning up but the middle is the best. (If you clean them up do not sharpen them unless you going to use them your sel. Because the bevel should be on the left side of the blade and users like different/personal style of sharpening). I could use a spare knife or two for one of mine tools, if you decide to sell any of them. Thanks Tor

I think that is an old picture of the Don Carlos knife. I have noticed they have changed design during the years, to the worse I'm afraid. It's no idea buying a cheap new round knife today. No doubt it's a real knife, I'm afraid this is what you get buying a cheap factory made knife today. Why not buying a good used US made knife or and old French Blanchard (if you find a good one). Old CS. Osborne Newark stamped rosewood and brass, you might find one from 50 to 100 usd. in fairly good shape. These are good knifes and there are still many around keeping the price down. Has to be Newark stamped or early Harrison stamped with cocobolo and brass. There is no such thing as an cheap good head or round knife, there are only lucky finds Good luck, Tor