Jimbob

dito !!

second that, dye has alcohol in it...even oil dye has a it of it...that dries the leather out....so using neatsfoot oil is a good thing...but very thin coat and use comon sense....and yes it will ruin a 100 dollar holster in no time if dunked in oil!!

thats exactly what it is....I use the walmart stuff alcohol all the time...works fine....

pure is as is PURE, and compound is as Cyber thrasher said a mix of something....thats why it is cheaper and not pure....like Olive oil, virgin is pure and expensive....good stuff, second harvest or just pure olive oil is a mix and much cheaper.

I used Fiebings all the time and then used 99 cent crafts acrylics on top of it, no problems...now I switched to Angelus dye and use same acrylics....no problems either...but I do always seal lwhen finished painting with clear leather laquer....real thin film/layer...works fine for me. Hope that helps a bit too...

The "secret" is wet forming and then using a glue like Barge that also will glue wet leather!! U be surprised how you can bend, stretch, shape and cheat leather when it is wet!! (veg tan only of course...) James

Super nice, cool, awesome and well made...enough said....

And again, as it has been said and will be said for a long long time....You, are still the KING of all wallets !! Period !!

Cool, love the detailed painting and coloring!! Well done!!

NO HOT WATER ON VEG TAN !!!!!!

super slick, love the design...very nice tooling....V-star...is that a Norwegian Lawn mower company ....haha.... I love the idea of attatching the wallet chain to the ring!! Well done!!

what I said....I mean what they said...brilliant too....show us more pictures....pleeeease!!!

Love it, no flames and no skulls....but I LOVE IT....very nice detail and certainly well done on the antiquening....great job.

I use Fiebings Aussie, several coats and dry in between...works good.

I staple all my original plastic seat pans...never had a problem....get urself a good upholstery gun and adjust air to where staples wont go to deep and cut your 3-4oz leather....if leather is damp and even less air so it wont be cut by these staples!! If you have a custom made seat pan, then rivets are the way to go....of course all metal pans needs to be riveted or laced as mentioned..if seat pan is rather flat, then you can wrap it bottom and top and then sew arround it...looks cool and lasts for a long time too...always glue your top to the seatpan or foam! Greetings. Jimbob

The eagle is cool, the holster is nice, but the darn edges are over the top...wow, very nice and super clean!!! I am starting to get the hang of it now too....using Fiebings Glitzerin soap and finishing with Parafin wax....good looking edges just make the hole project look so more professional!!! Well done,...... Jimbob

First of all, I think your machine is not made for what you are trying to do....13mmm is about an half inch or so and this is knee lift....your actuall sewing lift is near 1/4 inch.....maybe good for light upholstery or heavy garment. You need a larger machine, like an Adler, Cobra or Cowboy,,,,your machine needs to do at least 138 or 207 on top (thread size...) and do 92 or 138 on bottom for 2 layers of 5/6 latigo!! Do some research on this forum, trade your machine back in or sell it, or keep it for very light leather....then call Bob Kovar, or Steve or other Sewing machine sellers here on this forum....they will guide you in the right dirrection!! And try to learn as much as you can about leather sewing machines...!! Guess how I know all this....haha...been there done that. Greetings Jimbob

your work is amazing.....I pull my hat!!!! Wondeful art work...!! Jimbob

Daltonmasterson I would be interrested, wonder how much you want for the machine head only....dont need no stand or motor,,,,planing on using handwheel only!! Send me a PM or call me..thanks 276 690 five zero 8 four thanks James

called a Stippler....

ja Heilandsack, das ist ja ein super Fund....Klasse was man da alles in einer Scheune finden kann...cool !!!!!!!!!!!

I always take room temperature dark beer and cold pizza to the swap meets....works every time.....

I think for this kind of money I would NOT buy a Tippman, for hand operated or needing a loud compressor near....not my thing....and lots of complains from people own the newer Aluminium housing ones.....as been said, look for a used clone, or add a few bucks to purchase a new clone.....or find a good Adler 105 class...there are options, I would rather buy "real' sewingmachine....just my two cents!! Jimbob

will try again on different leather and different stages of moisture content.....its maybe me just not holding it right.....but it drags so bad.....you can actualy see drag marks on the cuts.....so not sure what to do,,,,calling BK will be next, thanks for info and advice, maybe some more people will have ideas how to fix this... thanks