Spinner

And surgeon-like skills, freehand cutting binding that well takes some good control. Kevin, you mentioned using garment weight cowhide for the edge binding...what weight are you using for the pockets, etc? Do you skive the pocket fold over areas, etc? I didn't see that mentioned but figure with a light enough leather you wouldn't need to. Last question, is that a presser foot you purchased or an OEM you customized? Excellent tutorial and great looking wallet. I'm envious of your stitch control on the designs & overlay pieces. Keep up the great work, Chris

I actually went the other way (WC to HO) and there is a significant difference. HO has a much firmer temper than WC and takes about twice as long to case properly than WC does. WC is also typically lighter in color than HO so you want to wait until it returns to it's true color versus the russet that you're used to with HO. Long story short, use a little less water/time than you would with HO and it should work fine. Chris

Just wanted to let folks know that I have decided that it is time to commence the retirement of LeatherBurnishers.com and the turning of said burnishers. I actually decided to do this back in August 2011 but there was still so much demand that I delayed the retirement and kept things going as long as I could. Well, after my local vendor of cocobolo ran out of stock for the foreseeable future, my bandsaw started coughing up internal parts and screaming at me, not to mention the fact that my lathe has been a push start for 3 months (motor run-start capacitor blew in late November) and only getting 19 hours sleep in the last 7 days it seemed the universe is trying to tell me to slow down and give something up before my wife kills me or exhaustion overtakes me and I pass out while holding sharp instruments. Unlike last time, there won't be an encore presentation. I'm turning the last two orders this week which will clear out my remaining inventory. The website and all references to it on my blog, facebook, forum signatures, etc. have been deleted...making a clean sweep. I want to thank everyone that has purchased, used and commented on my burnishers for the success of them as it wouldn't have gone anywhere really without the spread like wild fire word of mouth from all of you. I have dropped Ed the Bearman a PM regarding his previous interest in turning my designs and carrying the torch onwards. Cheers, Chris

Hey Aaron, I figured out something that works very nicely if you're looking for the deep solid color of waterstains with the abrasion durability of oil dye...use both! When the waterstains first can out I started playing with them to see if I could get the dark jet black color on my tank bibs. Once it's sealed with Resolene or Super Sheen the black is straight out of the depths of hell black, pitch black, 2 minutes after midnight black...you get the idea, but I had the same issues you found...zippers, etc can abrade the tank bib leaving natural color wear marks. Here;s what I do now and it worked out great with some of the bikes being on the road through winter snow, rain, etc. for 6+ months: 2 heavy coats of Pro Oil dye (base color) let dry 1 good application of neatsfoot oil let sit overnight 1 good coat of black waterstain rubbed on with a soft sponge, let dry for at least an hour or more buff the surface to get a dull sheen with a polishing cloth apply two coats of acrylic finish letting dry in between (I spray mine on) let dry overnight to make sure it hardens/dries completely apply Pecard's black leather dressing & buff to desired shine. Cheers, Chris Here's an example of a bib finished this way: Here's one with oil dye only (4 applications, hand rubbed in):

Just need to chime in here as I disagree with this general statement. If you go to an actual graphic paint store versus online or a big box store you will find that there are "airbrush compressors" and they are excellent quality and generally outlast large compressors. My high school best friend has been a professional airbsuh artist for going on 20 years now and of his 5 compressors 3 are also nearing 20 years in service. But again, you have to know what to buy and where to buy it and they aren't cheap ($150 is the starting point for a real airbrush compressor). A typical "true" airbrush compressor is usually tankless, oiless (or uses a special lubricant similar to sewing machines) and is very quiet. They don't necessarily fit on a table top (larger higher end versions exist). They are set to run consistently at the set air pressure when you press the trigger and have an auto-shut off when the pressure equalizes in the hole (i.e. you stop spraying). They do this because an airbrush artist can't take the chance of running the tank out mid-spray with a custom mixed color....lots of $ and time could be lost if the pressure drops unexpectedly like that. All the above being said, for yours and most leatherworker's needs, an "airbrush compressor" is not necessary. JLS is correct that for general spraying techniques a standard tank compressor will work fine. Keep in mind that most tank compressors are noisy when they fill up and there is no safety catch when pressure drops (low pressure in an airbrush results in sputtering/splatter pattern). Most decent airbrushes operate between 15-30 psi however as you get more comfortable you may start to use a detail sprayer (larger than an airbrush, smaller than a paint gun) to do larger jobs like whole hides and those can operate up to 50 psi so a 50-100 psi compressor JLS mentions is a good idea. A 5 gallon tank will suffice but 10+ is better as you'll have more time & control in between the pump running. Most big box stores will have them in package deals for $100-$150 with spray guns, nail guns, etc. As mentioned above, a separate in-line seperator & filter combo is a must. Water in the line can get through the gun and contaminate the dye/paint is left as is. The ones that come pre-installed on compressors are generally garbage so plan to get an in-line one even if the compressor comes with one. Cheers, Chris

Great idea on stitching the various images together John, the piece looks great and as Boma said tells a pretty universal story.

I had replied via email but just to put this out there in case others have a need for the info...a metal shop like a smith is likely the best bet. Woodturning lathes have a max depth for boring of about 6" and that's pushing most lathes. I checked up on prices for the drill bit out of curiosity and it costs about $85-90 for a 1 5/16" drill bit with a 1/2" shank, add in the $15 or so for the wood plus the turner's time and you're likely in for a $150 burnishing wheel. Unfortunately my midi lathe just isn't up to the task.

Thanks everyone!

I do large wet formed items and while they aren't holsters, another good reason for heat drying is controlling the drying process itself. Many times a larger piece can dry unevenly and if you're working with something like my tank bibs where the reference points need to remain constant, controlling the leather movement as it dries is a big deal. I've had pieces move as much as 3/8" off their marks just due to various things like warm spots in the room, heater vent locations, etc.

This isn't an outline drawing, but there are some good silhouettes that can be easily used for a pattern: https://www.google.com/search?q=cowboy+at+the+cross&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&safe=active&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=iWVGT-j_JavH0AHxn9y0Dg&biw=1144&bih=665&sei=3GVGT96OFvO00AHz35CYDg

Thanks guys, glad you like it. It was definitely fun to work on & the client loves it.

This was by far my most challenging tank bib to date. Client asked me awhile back about doing a picture of St. Michael he found on the internet. We got the details pinned down and the job scheduled but later when I was looking at the picture he sent me - a semi-basic computerized & altered rendition of the original painting - I realized I had seen it before way back when in Art History classes. I did some research and found the correct, original version and upon discussing it, he agreed to use the original as the basis. The is artwork was done in 1635 by Guido Reni and is titled, "Saint Michael Vanquishing Satan" or "Michael the Archangel Vanquishing Satan" depending on who you ask. Here is my rendition of it in leather, made for a 2003 Honda VTX1800C. Hermann Oak 5/6 oz A grade from Goliger Leather & triple loop edge lacing in black kangaroo. Golden Fluid Acrylics were used for the colors. I included some progress pictures this time to give folks a sense of what happens during the process. Enjoy! Chris Starting with a pic of the bare gas tank:

Thanks Kevin that's a great compliment coming from you, your tutorials on wallet making were in the back of my head when making parts of this.

Thanks, the sewing machine made the stitching a non-event. Ah, yeah dimensions likely would have been helpful eh? The bag is 7" wide x 12" tall x 3" deep.

In that case, check out the Marine Conchos they have too, they are under the heading "USA Conchos". This one worked out nicely when I used it on a set of side covers. The client loved the two tone/3D effect it has.

Thanks Cheryl! Thanks. The snap is from Trigg Brothers. They have all kinds of conchos and snaps I haven't seen elsewhere. I found the Maltese Cross snap when I was looking for a USMC logo snap (which they also have) and both were excellent quality. http://triggbrothers.com/accessories.html#snaps

A few months back, a client had me make a custom tank bib with a purple chrome tan overlay with applique lacing for his bike: After it was all complete and I informed him that I had plenty of the purple leather he supplied left over he asked me to design & make a purse for his fiance that matched the theme so she could use it when they ride. Here's what I came up with. It's my first purse ever, designed from scratch and sewn on my Techsew 2700. It has an outside zipper pocket big enough for two smartphones, a drawstring closure with flap over. The flap secures via an iron cross snap to tie into the black chrome tan iron crosses on the bag & tank bib. Inside is lined with black peachskin fabric and two interior pockets on the back wall. The flap and top opening are edged with black lambskin. It has two straps, one all leather one for over the shoulder and a leather & woven canvas strap for wearing it as a waist bag. Both straps can secure to the D-rings at the top of the bag. Thanks for looking! Chris

Yep, that is a great benefit and they do it for Discover cards as well. Points/Rewards card? Most banks charge a premium for any of those card types on top of the normal fee. Not Square, same fee for any card or card type as long as it's acceptable. Only major drawback is the lack of website integration and no International cards (U.S. Only)....yet.

I used Square a ton now (previously was only paypal only) and not only have I closed more deals but the amounts have been larger...not sure what folk's hang-up is with paypal but some just plain don't like it. Square is very easy to use, the equipment is free and the fees are pretty much inline with others. I recently did a write-up on the benefits/drawbacks to online processors versus banks here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37326

Funny how that works for some items and not others. I agree, my wallets and notebooks I do at a spacing equal to the lace width or less, motorcycle gear (tank & fender bibs, etc) it's double or more.

hey Suicide - PM sent with info. Cheers, Chris

Forgot to mention something on this part...There is very little leather I buy locally anymore. There are simply too many better options via retailers online that I can get it from and usually for less. Springfield Leather, SavMor Leather and a number of others likely have something more to what you're looking for and most have great staff people that will talk at length to figure out what it is you need. It may take a trial & error for a piece or two (which is one thing that makes Springfield great, they'll cut hides to fill particial orders) to figure out exactly what you want but in the end it's worth trying a few places.

Sounds like it may be an preparation issue rather than simply low quality. Reading up on it, Vachetta simply is veg-tan cowhide from the Colombian Andes. The difference between other cowhides and Vachetta has more to do with visual quality (the lack of insect bites due to the higher altitude) than it's working properties. Any veg-tan that hasn't been cased, skived or conditioned properly (or a combination thereof) prior to bending/folding will wrinkle. It doesn't have a sealer finish on a completed piece but all the references do discuss using a good quality leather conditioner/dressing to keep it from degrading & wrinkling/creasing permanently. A veg-tan with a softer hand/temper might help as well. Tanneries differ in temper, Hermann Oak is stiffer than Wickett & Craig and Chahin is inbetween the two. Calf & Goat are avilable in veg-tan as well and I believe you can find lamb although I have never tried. Are you trying to tool or dye the watch bands which would require veg-tan? If not, a different tannage might work better as well. Check out some of the gusseted cases on here Bob Park (Hidepounder) has shown some great examples where he has used thicker veg-tan than you'd use on a watch band with some compound direction bends & stitching in the gussets without wrinkling. He and others may chime in with tips. Hope that helps.