Spinner

Something else that helps with avoiding cancellations, especially with a long backlog is communication. I've made myself a good reputation for communication with my clients but I've been trying to figure out how to improve it during the 'blackout period' between the order and job construction. Figuring that typically I'll have a good discussion on the project specifics, invoice the client & confirm payment and then the wait...then once the job starts we begin communicating regularly again but in the middle there could be 1-2 months of them not hearing from me. For most this is fine, they understand the wait for custom items but I personally want to improve my review marks so starting next week I'm going to be putting together a newsletter of sorts that will go out to clients that have confirmed orders that aren't in process (in process orders get pics of the major construction steps so they are already hearing from me) just to let them know I haven't forgotten about them. I'm still working out what to include to keep it short & concise. As for accounts, I struggled with it for awhile thinking multiple accounts would be a pain but it has worked out well. I actually have 3 bank accounts for the business. I also use paypal but it's linked to the main bank account and I simply transfer funds each time I get paid to keep the records easier to manage and to be able to use their shipping service (not to mention Paypal's sales reports suck, my bank's are much better so putting it all there makes my life easier). Working Capital: this account has all confirmed/completed order payments and is used for buying supplies, etc. Deposits: This account is for payments received but are held until the job start. Once the job begins, the related funds are transferred to working capital Taxes & Fees: this account gets a 10% cut from all completed jobs and is used as a backup source for paying taxes, business fees/licenses, etc. Why the third account? It's simply a safety net in case I don't have enough in the main business account to cover when Uncle Sam comes calling. At the end of the year, once everything is paid the remaining funds move to the working capital account - kind of like a year end bonus or tax refund.

Thanks everyone, the transition to the Bearmen is going well and they hope to be up and running shortly. They have about an hour of video of me turning 'my way' & narrating to get through so we'll see how that goes, hopefully I don't bore them into comas!

It likely done on a post bed machine, the lay down stitch would be on the side of the gusset for the second side sewn or like the OEM cover, the laydown stitch for both front and back is on the gusset. A cylinder bed can't do the laydown for both pieces like that and a flat bed couldn't either...at least that I know of. The zipper on the bottom is what makes it possible. Once you have the seam stitches in, simply open the zipper and sew the top stitch down through the opening (with a post bed as mentioned) Not a problem, Ron is a good guy to deal with too. Good luck with it. FYI - call Ron to place the order instead of doing it via ebay or the website so he can make sure any extras like edge guides can be added without extra shipping costs.

very carefully. The front side is a simple sew the seam and then top stitch to one side so it will lay flat. The back side is just a seam stitch and then trimmed closely so it will lay down as much as possible. The front side was sewn first and then the back side, done inside out and once sewn the piece was turned right side out. The advantage of oil tanned buffalo and other leathers is they are very flexible and don't wrinkle much if at all when done this way. veg-tan would wrinkle like crazy if folded over on itself 180 degrees. Here's another shot of the gusset with the stealthy zipper (the one on the left is the one I did, the right is the OEM pleather cover):

I don't know anything about sewing baseball gloves but I have a 2700 and love it. It will sew 3/8" thick at slow speeds pretty easily. I've maxed mine out a few times (thickness and turning radius) making backpacks and backrest pads but it has done what I asked of it without complaint. The only thing I miss with the 2700 versus a similar size flatbed machine is the availability of presser feet. Here's a couple of things sewn on my 2700 as examples: Hornback section of a gator tail + 6oz veg-tan: 3/4oz garment cowhide & lamb stacked 5 thick at some points: Stingray + 6oz veg-tan for the bib, 3/4oz lamb and 4/5oz buffalo + stingray for the backrest pad:

If you "qualify" the client well enough you shouldn't have many returns/cancellations. When I'm talking to the client about the piece I'll ask them how much experience they have with leather, approaching it from a care perspective to make sure questions are answered. This allows me to gauge how well they understand that it's a natural product and will have some "proof of life" characteristics. Those that talk about "perfect", flawless, etc. I ask a few more questions of to determine if I just need to be pickier of where I cut their piece of hide from or if I should direct them to the local vinyl sewing upholstery shop. The fun part is, by asking the right questions I find that many bikers like to have some kind of authenticating mark (usually a very light and/or small scar or stretch mark) to show it's real handcrafted leather versus pleather or vinyl. We bikers tend to enjoy showing off a bit if you hadn't noticed. As for them not liking it, that's one reason for the final picture being sent pre-shipping. Get them to sign off that the finished product is designed as agreed. Damages that come from shipping, etc. are a hazard of doing business and are dealt with separately (shipping insurance, etc.). If the returns are due to work quality then it's time to figure out if it's actually your work or their expectations, either way something wasn't managed 100% during the sales process. Funny thing is, the two times I have had to re make a client's item after it was all tooled, etc. was due to my opinion of it, not theirs. I had one client call me all dismayed that I wouldn't finish on time because I decided to retool a piece I had just finished the night before. #1 shop rule: If I wouldn't be proud to hang the piece on my bike, it doesn't ship out.

Very cool idea. I can see where there would be a good market for this, especially those that are sentimental about such things. If cost is ever questioned, simply point out that if they plan to keep their corsage a real flower one will need to be freeze dried professionally, etc for it to remain as pretty as long adding to the cost of a "real" flower. Not to mention yours look much more durable!

I don't do holsters but with the motorcycle bibs & gear everything is pay up front. Main reason it's every piece I do is customized in some way, some more so than others and I can't guarantee that I'll be able to sell it if the client backs out or something happens to them. A minimum 50% deposit is required, although most folks prefer to simply pay all up front to get it out of the way. Any remainder is due prior to shipping. I send a final pic for job completion approval with the final invoice. As for holding onto other people's money, I do keep a separate account for job deposits/payments just in case of a cancellation. It's only happened twice but it can happen especially with a wait time of 3 months or more like I'm running with now. A client can request a full deposit return up until the day before I cut the leather and they can request a refund after leather is cut but before any custom work (tooling, etc) is done of $80%. The 20% is a stock return fee I charge as it could be months before a piece for that specific bike is requested again so I have to store the raw bib separate from everything else due to their odd shape. Once the tooling begins, if it's a specific or client supplied artwork piece (versus a standard design I do a lot of like POW/MIA) then the bib is trash and they can request 50% back the other 50% covers materials and time wasted. Chris

If you're looking for a metallic silver lace, Y-Knot has it. They also have gold, pewter and bronze. I talked to Barb about it not long ago and she said it's pretty durable stuff.

The sanding drums work really well for this, 100grit will take them down pretty quickly. FYI - dry erase markers work great for drawing guidelines on lighter color stingray and cleans right off with a damp rag. For darker colors, I use low tack pinstriping tape.

Some of it's personal preference, edge longevity, weight, blade grind styles, word of mouth, etc. The list of reasons why to get one over another vary. I have both Barry King and LeatherWranglers and while the King's are nice, I gravitate towards my LW SK-3 for 99% of my cutting. Overall, the weight is less so I can hang on to it longer on larger projects, the action feels a slight bit smoother and I love Paul's blades. I don't know what he's feeding them but they stay sharp longer than any blade in my shop, swivel knife or otherwise (although my Knipschield Detail Knife holds a damn fine edge too). That means less stropping and more cutting. I was thinking of adding another maker in there just for the fun of it but haven't decided which to try next. Chris

Yep, most production houses use this technique as it's fast and holds up pretty well. The benefit of it is speed. The also use an edge paint that is fairly flexible and applied via a special belt/roller machine. The main difference is the edge will eventually crack and break off doing it this way, the same problem folks here have with using EdgeKote and similar products. Traditional Burnishing is a process of flattening and polishing the fibers versus simply burning them, it's the friction polish step that causes a traditional edge to last longer and allows for repairs. The burned/painted edges can never be repaired as well as a burnished one as the color/fade/cracks will show somewhat. As far as the tool, it's actually a tip that's attached to a torch end, likely propane or another gas. The tips are approx. 1" x 1/2" with the channel cut out so a soldering iron would have a heck of a time getting it hot enough with all of that metal. There are heavier duty versions used in woodworking for branding maker's marks onto projects that would work if electricity is preferred over gas. Those iron heaters run around $80-100 and the tip is usually custom made but any metal shop can make one with the provided specs. Something else to keep in mind, once the edge is burned and painted/sealed it will still need to be buffed/polished to get a decent shine out of it. At the end of the day, unless you plan on putting out wholesale numbers of edged items on a regular basis, traditional burnishing will likely be cheaper and cleaner (can't imagine having the smell of burnt leather in my shop all day everyday) in the long run.

Clay Banyai is doing a great series on the lessons from Jan Schoonover on leather embossing figure carvings. They aren't free but the ones I have seen are worth the nominal fee. http://badlandsleatherart.com/schoonover.htm

Oxalic Acid or pure lemon juice are both good at lightening leather and removing spots. Use light applications with a qtip or clean paint brush should help. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works well too but can lighten the leather very quickly if you're not careful. If you lighten the spot too much you can always do the surrounding areas to even it out.

I'm thinking edge burning/branding technique to give it a burnished look. Using hot irons to brand cattle is ages old so it makes sense that using a modified iron (The U-shaped end is notably hot, likely hooked up to a torch tip of some kind) could be used to burn the edges rather than burnish. Burnishing is the result of heat + friction, this method is just heat. Many paints and heavy pigment dyes can be heat set as well so it's possible there is a bit of dye on the edge that is being heat set while the fibers are essentially being cauterized flat to give it a finished edge.

Very Nice KK, thanks for sharing. I like the idea of an animated gif to explain the process without the time & overload of a video.

Thanks for the compliment Keith, I appreciate it. The dual corners is definitely the major drawback so I do strop more often than a straight blade user would but it's a fair trade off for more comfort. I've been a semi-professional woodturner for 10+ years and blade/bevel geometry is a huge consideration there which is what made me rethink the swivel knife blades I found available. They aren't readily available from most makers but folks like Paul (and I'm sure others) are willing to do custom grinds if the buyer knows exactly what to ask for. Interestingly enough, I don't think I have large hands but I do hold my knife the traditional way with the yolk up around the end of my finger (ahead of the first knuckle area) and use a standard length barrel with a large (rounded) yolk...best of both worlds maybe? Or it could be I'm just a little odd. haha Cheers, Chris P.S. - thanks for the critique/comments on stem design above, I'm currently studying Sheridan pattern design and that was an excellent tip.

I personally disagree. While I'm obviously not a floral carver, or up to your skill level Keith, I believe the angle blade gets a bad rap most of the time. Part of the problem is companies like Tandy that make all of their angle blades with the hideously acute angles (50-60 degrees) with a hollow grind and call them a standard angle blade when really they should be called detail blades. In my opinion, a good 'working' angle blade shouldn't have an angle of more than 25 degrees or less. Difference is, with a low-angled angle blade (sounds odd but it's the best thing I can think of to call it) when the handle is in the upright position, it's ready to go in a more natural hand position, presenting the same amount of blade into the leather as a straight blade angled back for normal cutting operations. For tight curves, you tilt it back like normal but the amount of tilt required is less. For long straights & flowing curves, the blade is angled forward slightly to present more blade length to the leather. For finger and finishing cuts, a low angle angled blade with a shorter bevel grind works very well as the shorter bevel gives a width similar to a straight blade presented at an angle and can be drifted in & out of cuts just as easily. I had to figure this all out due to a wrist problem I have in my cutting hand. Due to a hockey injury years ago, having my wrist in certain positions for too long will cause the joint to lock up. The standard 'angled back' cutting position of a straight blade was just such a position and i would fatigue quickly when working on large carvings. I worked with Paul Z at Leatherwranglers to come up with a blade angle that solves the problem and I can use for all my cuts. Not saying either one is right or wrong/better or worse, just my opinion on swivel blades in general. A couple of examples of pieces I have done using only a low angle 3/8" angle blade for those interested are attached. Cheers, Chris

A very sad loss indeed. Paul was talked about for many days via emails, phone calls and Facebook quite a bit and to clear up the misconception, his passing was also posted about here on LW.net in two different threads: http://leatherworker...showtopic=38107 http://leatherworker...showtopic=38257

medium nozzle will likely be the most common in the hobby store airbrushes and is the most versatile. Most of the harbor freight & TCP global imitations will be variations of the Badger Anthem 155 or 200. They'll spray up to 3" wide down to a pencil line if you get the techniques down correctly. Depending on the brand they'll range from $12 - $80 and usually include a couple of cups, the hose, etc. My Anthem 155 is my workhorse and been spraying all kind of stuff for 8 years now without a hiccup.

Hey Andrew, for just major area coverage you don't need an expensive gun. Go down to Harbor Freight or some similar store and look for an automotive "touch-up gun". It will be between a spray gun and an airbrush in size and usually has a 4-6oz cup on it. Here's an pic of the one I have, simple thing, cost about $15 and will spray a massive amount of dye very quickly. Be sure to have stuff covered up including your nose & mouth as there will be over spray.

I do a lot of decent sized tooling on my tank bibs and I found that packing tape thickness can vary quite a bit. 3M makes one the the thicker ones and it holds pretty well if moisture gets to it through the leather. I have to really worry about stretch as my pieces have to be 100% cut and holes punched before the tooling is done. What I do is use the 3M packaging tape and run it down the piece one direction, overlapping about a 1/4" with each new strip. Then I will run strips perpendicular to the first ones. The first layer controls the stretch, the second layer allows for a slightly deeper tooling like posterboard does. I then use a commerical spray bottle (the big type janitors use) set on spray (but just above the stream setting) to deliver a good soaking. Work the sprayer like a paint gun, overlapping each line of water by 50% to ensure even wetting. Place the piece under plexiglass or saran wrap for an hour or so then spray again. Recover and let set for another hour or two. Now simply uncover, allow the surface to return to proper cased level (takes another 20-60 minutes depending on temps and leather thickness) and cut/tool away. On larger pieces I simply re-wet areas as needed with a smaller lower volume spray bottle set more to a mist setting. If I get too aggressive with my tooling and the leather wants to curl after I pull the tape off, I use the mister bottle to lightly wet the surface and lay it back under the plexiglass with a weight on it. In a temp controlled room, the leather will completely dry under the plexi in about 2 hours with almost no curl to it.

Just got word, It's a go! Ed "Bearman" and Beary have accepted my offer to take over where I left off. It will take a few weeks to transition everything and get them up to speed but for those that are looking for the same top quality burnishers I made, LeatherBurnishers.com will continue to be the place to go.

Sorry Ben, this thread is about a year & half old and I've since retired from burnisher making :http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38337 There is a gentleman by the name of Gary Lyon who is turning a similar rotary burnisher though: http://leathertools4u.com/Tools-for-Sale.html Cheers, Chris

Thanks folks, Just making sure I'm taking care of my family's needs of my time as well. The burnisher thing literally started out as me just turning one for myself and King's X, then silly us posted them on the forums and all hell broke loose. I am looking for a good shop to take over turning my various designs, with a possible change/addition I had been thinking about and inheriting the LB.com website (which I will be replacing on the web tonight to include the change message to clear up any confusion). Hopefully Ed & Beary will say yes to picking up where I left off. As for me, I won't be going anywhere, part of the reason to stop turning is to do even more leatherwork so I can trim my wait list down from 14 weeks hopefully and still spend quality time with my wife and daughter. Glad you got set up with a burnisher, too bad the guy on ebay is a douchebag. I hope he's not a LW.net member...we don't need his kind here. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37023