Spinner

Shouldn't hurt them at all as it's simply the same as casing the leather but keep in mind that the leather will likely shrink while drying so it you have the ability to tack it up to keep it from warping/curling, etc. I would think they would be fine with a light showering on the grain side. Depending on how thick the dust layer is and if it's just dust and not other particulates like metal dust, you shouldn't have any problems. Wiping could cause the larger bits to scratch or mar the grain side if you build up too much or if it's abrasive in anyway.

Might have something to do with the quantity you're ordering too. Looking at their website, they are the manufacturer and not involved in retail sales. One page, for their holster thumb breaks, lists a minimum order quantity of 1000. I ran into a similar problem last year looking for Buddy-Loc Twist Connectors for bags. Eventually found them but ended up paying 3 times as much for retail as I would have paid to by them (per item) in bulk but I couldn't see using 500 sets in the next 50 years.

Hey Bobby, Got it, thanks! I'll get it turned this weekend for you. RustyMelon - As 2Yutes mentioned, alot of it depends on convenience and volume. Most of my work involves 6oz leather with various shapes and my shop is divided between two different areas (leather inside and wood/metal outside) so getting to the drill press can take more time than the actual burnishing does so I tend to lean towards the dremel bits more but as I'm expanding the leather shop this month I may pick up a $40 HF drill press and make a permanent station if funds allow. If you're doing a decent volume of heavy work like holsters and other thick items that may need some extra pressure I'd go with the drill press version...not only does it have more channels, etc. on one bit as 2Yutes mentions but the drill press itself is heavier duty and the overall set-up will last longer (I go through a set of dremel motor bushings about every 3-4 months). 2Yutes - funny how you can discover new things on something so straight-forward, eh? The various sizes also help quite a bit with the tight edges you find on a slim jim style holster like the trigger loop/curve.

Not a problem at all...in fact, check your Inbox...

Hey Jim, I'd be interested in a good slab as I'm getting ready to expand my bench area for private tutoring I'll be doing soon. Are they available to pick up on weekends or just weekdays? I'm up in L.A. near the 110/5 interchange so getting down to Carson would be a snap. Chris

Thanks Roo, that's pretty funny about the vests...I hadn't noticed that until you said something but they really do look that way! haha benlilly - Yes, it is if you know you'll use the whole thing and not waste it. Also, here's a little secret...the leather quality is better than what you'll find at the retail stores and it's actually cheaper most of the time. Example: a mid-grade 24 sqft hide from Tandy (Live Oak I think is what it's called) in 6oz runs about $150-180 for club members. (I was in a jam last week and needed 4oz...half a side of Royal Meadow 4oz. cost me $85 and still wasn't as nice) The Overstock sides from W&C are $107. The overstock sides from W&C are better quality than the Royal Meadow or Live Oak and generally run about 23-25sq ft. I pay about $20 shipping from them in PA to Los Angeles so even with shipping it's still cheaper. Only downside is the 1-2 week wait for it to get here when I ask them to cut or split it. If you order the 9/10oz, it ships quickly since it's on hand. Cutting and splitting usually adds a week or so to the delivery time. I go through 1-3 sides per month usually so I always order when I'm down to one side of my common thicknesses and colors (I also use their pre-dyed black sides). I try to keep at least a side of 4, 6 and 9oz on hand as that's what I use the most. Chris

Thanks Roo! Funny you mention the maker's mark because after I shipped it this morning I was looking at the pictures and realized I forgot to stamp this one at all! I need to get my workbenches built in the new leatherworking space so I can move my press in (the press is in the wood shop so I occasionally forget to go out and makers stamp a piece). The nice thing is about the bracket is that it uses the same pins as the footpeg so it literally can be installed or swapped out with the footpeg in 2-3 minutes, that is if you know how it mounts.

Nicely done Prince, I can't even imagine the amount of time that went into this.

Thanks Wishful.

This was a bag I did the prototype for last summer. I got busy and never ended up making a production version. Interestingly enough, a fellow rider saw the bag discussed on my blog and asked if I would finish the design and make him a real one. I custom make the brackets out of brass and paint them as well as shown in one of the pictures. 9oz. back panel for stability, 4oz front to do the wetforming and a 6oz. flap to give it a solid look & feel. Triple loop lacing in kangaroo for the edges (I'm very happy with how the lacing turned out, even around the odd corners). Finished the patterns (and converted them along with the wet forming blank to left side mount) and then cut, dyed, laced and etc. the whole thing in two evenings. Gotta love it when a project is inspiring enough to crank it out. Now I just need to make a set for my bike with some tooling on them! The first two pictures are the photos the client saw of the prototype that spurred his request. I'd say the one he's getting looks just a touch nicer. Chris

Finished a pair of whaletail tank bibs for two Honda VTX1300s this weekend (two different clients, same bikes). The first one asked for the POW-MIA tooling and a pocket to hold an iPod & notepad and then asked for the Airborne wings to be added somewhere. The color & royal blue lacing he added on and ended up looking kind of cool (his bike is also painted blue). The second one is a whaletail bib with a double row of 1/4" buckstitching running down like racing stripes. Both were made with W & C 6oz, wet formed to the tank. Kangaroo for all the lacing. Golden Fluid acrylics (white & irridescent silver) were used for the colors. Both have triple loop laced edges and felt on the undersides to protect the bike's paint. On the pocket, I tried something new and did an expandable folded pocket like was shown in the LW&SJ two issues ago. I used 3oz goatskin for the pocket front, veg-tan for the flap and to get a bit more room out of it, I welted the pocket with two 6oz. 1/4" wide welts all around. Kept the pocket fairly flat while providing an extra 3/8" thickness without the pocket expanding. Chris

Hey John, I can confirm that when used according to the instructions, the contact cement like Barge's and the Tandy brand as well will stand up to the elements, time, heat, cold, weight bearing, etc. I make leather wrapped covers and side bags for motorcycles, the leather wrapped side covers have leather that is wet formed to the factory ABS cover and then the leather is removed and contact cement applied to both surfaces and then leather re-wrapped and smoothed on. I have 20 sets of these on bikes all over the US and half of those have been on the road 2+ years without a problem. I also make a side bag that replaces the rear foot peg. In making the prototype, I didn't want to waste time stitching something that was going to just be a mock-up so I contact cemented it. Well, it was 6 months before I got back to the project after the prototyping and the bag was on my bike the whole time. I put my house keys, wallet and mini-toolkit in that bag everytime I rode (was worried the first time or two about hoping I'd hear my stuff fall out...) but in that time, not one seam broke. The bag had no finish on it so it was exposed to 80+mph wind, rain, direct sunlight, dust, dirt, etc. Long story short, I can confirm the contact cement works very well. Just make sure to do as they say and coat both surfaces, wait until tacky and then press firmly together for 2-5 minutes then let cure overnight for full effectiveness. Hope this helps, Chris A couple of pictures of the bags I spoke of so you can see they are in no way sheltered, they're out there getting used: Here's the prototype bag (mounts with a custom bracket that replaces the rear footpeg) - notice how close it sits to the exhaust pipes (area of high temps):

I use cheap denim cloth to make the patterns for crash bars and whaletail bibs. As McJeep mentioned, using tape as well. I start with a rough shape to make sure I have enough cloth and then tape it to the bars using blue painters tape (no residue to clean off). Once trimmed and taped into place I then use an exacto knife to lightly cut the tape at the center line of the bars. This gives me 1/2 of the pattern. Repeat for the other side(s) and remove. Then take it back to the shop, lay the pattern out on posterboard to make a permanent pattern. Where the compound curves are you'll need to make a cut so the pattern lays out flat. Mark the pattern at these locations to you know to add a seam there or that you'll have some wet forming to do. The last set I did were the inside ones. The owner really likes the lace up style as it gives a more retro look and as McJeep mentioned, you can still see most of the chrome. I used 6oz. doubled up with smooth sides out with a stiffener inside. Haven't gotten a pic of them on the bike from the owner yet but here's one of them finished. They are for the NC Paladin Crash Bars on a '06 Honda Shadow Aero 750:

Not sure if you noticed Skald, but you partially answered your own question. If you browse through the biker-wallets.com website you'll see that they also sell their wallet parts - snaps, clips, rings, etc. as well as the wallets: http://www.biker-wallets.com/custom-handmade-wallets-2/new-925-sterling-silver-skull-wallet-snap-bws-202/ Thanks for the resource though, I haven't seen a number of those snaps and rings available anywhere else and might have to pick up a few.

Peter Main also has an excellent book called "The Main Technique for Coloring Leather" available on his website: http://www.petermain.com under the publications section. I believe his books are $14.99 and well worth every penny. His Australian Leather Carving book is great too, has some nice patterns of Australian florals that are a bit different than traditional Sheridan patterns to mix things up. Chris

Had the question come up today; Can Oil Tanned leather be edge burnished like veg-tan? I don't work with oil tanned enough to have tried but from my limited experience I know that edging it doesn't work out quite as well. So, anyone know the answer or have experience with burnishing oil tanned leather? Thanks, Chris

Hi Nuker, I believe both Tandy Leather Factory and Springfield Leather Company will ship overseas. Otherwise, the next best option would likely be Tandy Leather Factory UK. Some liquid items from the US may not be able to be shipped to European countries though due to import laws on hazardous materials. Here are the links: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.co.uk/en-gbp/home/home.aspx http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/ http://www.springfieldleather.com

Hehe, thanks bro. Actually before I got into leatherworking I had a full scale woodturning & metal spinning shop and one of my annual orders was 300 Christmas ornaments for a West L.A. art gallery so that's probably why I can turn so many types/styles of burnisher at pretty much any diameter.

I recently used the predyed black WC and it worked well for me too. My recent post "rear motorcycle fender bib" shows a piece made from it. I agree, having it predyed sped the process up quite a bit.

Here is an example of a custom dremel burnisher I turned for someone that does filigree work and wanted to burnish the edge of 1.5-2 oz. leather. Notice how as the grooves get smaller, especially on the tip, the start to become more and more V shaped to help keep the edge in the groove. (The tip tapers from 1/4" diameter at it's thickest point to give an idea of scale). Hope this all helps.

Schpacko - as Sixer and Bobby mentioned, I make cocobolo burnishers that will work with 4-5 oz. I've actually made one for myself previous that can burnish pigskin splits that have been doubled up (total of about 3oz.) You can check out my site below or... here are a few tips if you are handy enough to make one: The depth of the channel should to be at least equal to the width on small leather channels. This helps keep the leather in place while burnishing. If the channel isn't deep enough, the leather will bend/curl and "walk" out of the channel. For thinner leathers (under 4oz) it's helpful if the channel has either straight or slightly "V" shaped sides and a flat bottom instead of "U" shaped. Straight sides& bottom will ensure the leather stays in place and if you taper off the top corners to almost a V, the friction and shape will actually draw the leather in slightly, keeping the burnishing action going without leaving a heavy mark if the sides touch. As for doing it manually with saddle soap & cloth to burnish or as follow up to polish the edge; if you have enough room, try sandwiching the leather between two pieces of posterboard or thin smooth cardboard. Get the posterboard almost right up to the edge to be burnished, then lay the sandwich at the edge of your work table - edge to be burnished out. It should help keep the piece stiff enough to burnish the edge and still be smooth/soft enough to work without leaving any marks. Cheers, Chris

Out of my last batch of 4 hides from WC two was so-so and the other two were their normal, great leather. Funny thing is, the two so-so pieces was not from their overstock, it was the #2 grade. I do know that they are currently shut down on production (skeleton crew for processing) while they do their annual cleaning & tune-up on the machinery and processing plant...maybe they really did need to be tuned up. The so-so W&C hides were still better than the Royal Meadow I got from Tandy around the same time (wanted to try the Royal Meadow to make sure I wasn't missing out on something). The RM wasn't bad but it doesn't seem to wet form as easily or take water as evenly as the W&C does which is important in my work. In talking to Matt at W&C last week to place my next order for when they re-start, we were talking about the fact that for the last year the overstock quality appeared to be higher than that of their 1 & 2 grades. This seemed odd as I normally equate over-stock to stuff that doesn't sell. I bought my first overstock hide early last year and was really impressed with it so I kept adding 1-2 to each order to save some money. As it turns out, the overstock for most of that time has been hides cut for a recognized bag & accessory manufacturer (has the same initials as Las Vegas) that weren't 100% perfect to their requirements, which from the sounds of it, are higher than 99.5% of leatherworkers. Definitely explains why the overstock is so nice and since it's a $20-30 difference in price per hide, I'm going to start ordering all from their overstock until they run out or I notice a quality difference there too.

I was thinking the same thing. When someone's third post on a forum has more flames than a bonfire, all I see is "Troll" and the rest of their post is fodder.

Looks good Roo! I really like the nice fade you achieved on the edges from brown to black. Airbrush I assume?