Spinner

Depends on what the client pays for in my opinion. I have a couple of "stock" designs that I have done like soaring eagles, skulls, etc. that I offer up if the client just wants something on their bib and isn't looking to really go custom or pay for it. If a client pays extra for a full custom piece and they and I are involved in designing it specifically for their bike then it's one off and the pattern is filed away. I'll do something similar in style but won't replicate a truly custom tooling.

Very well done Tom, thanks for sharing!

Just thought of something else I have used as well with good success. Createx Airbrush Colors are opaque waterbased very light pigment paints that work well on leather and are very lightfast (they are commonly used for t-shirt airbrushing). Amazon has some good prices on them. They can also be found at Hobby Lobby, Michaels & Dick Blick: http://www.amazon.com/Createx-Airbrush-Paints--Transparent-2oz/dp/B000E6KMOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307256586&sr=8-1

Here you go Diane: http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/6947/Dye%2CFieb%2CReg%2CGrey%2C32oz/ I have used this many times and the white as well. Both work just fine. A couple of notes to improve their performance though: The dye is not compatible with other dyes. It's a pigmented spirit based dye so you won't be able to lay other colors over it. Both the white and grey work better if sprayed but can be brushed on. The white takes many coats to produce a true white. The grey takes fewer coats but apply them thin and even otherwise it can build up and hide the grain. They dilute and clean up with alcohol but the Fiebings reducer works better. Angelus also makes a light, medium and dark grey in their Suede dye and dressing line. It works for smooth leathers as well. http://www.angelusshoepolish.com/cat3.html Here are a couple of examples of the white and grey on a few pieces I have done. The white and grey in both were applied with an inexpensive airbrush.

Hey McJeep, Nice looking X ya got there. I actually own 7 different gas tanks (not including the ones on my bikes) that I use for the wet forming duties. On the 05+ 1800s I actually had to cut openings in the underside of the tanks to give myself somewhere to clamp the leather to. Those flangeless tanks can be a pain to wrap since there is simply nowhere to pin the leather down. The biggest thing to keep in mind when wet forming the leather over the tank is to put a layer of felt or whatever backing material you plan on using on the tank before the wet form to ensure you maintain the space between the tank and leather. Since the backing material is applied last, if you don't 'plan' for this airspace when wet forming, the bib won't fit when finished. Check your PMs for more info. Chris

Jeff at Grey Ghost Graphics makes them: http://greyghostgraphics.com/transfer.html not sure what they cost though. Chris

It's likely a different grade of velcro. There are 3 standard types of adhesive used on store bought velcro: fabrics use (lightest), crafters (medium) and industrial/automotive (hard core). The crafters doesn't gum a needle too bad but if you're sewing both sides on, look for the fabric use grade. I'd guess you probably picked up industrial adhesive velcro this time. I use is often with my motorcycle tank bibs and it will gum up and trap a needle faster than you can let off the pedal. Silicone lubricant works well in most cases. For the non-adhesive velcro, try the matters glue or you can get quilters binding tape. The tape goes on quick & easy, no mess and will hold it in place while you sew it in. Chris

Try Y-KnotLace they have a good selection and the quality is just as nice. I recently ordered the Royal Blue and the color is awesome. Customer service is good too, I ordered the Friday before the Sheridan show and they shipped it from Sheridan to make sure my order was filled on time instead of waiting until they got back. http://y-knotlace.com/yknot-store:21568/show/id:25676/ Chris

email sent...enjoy!

Looking good Bevan! One of these days I'll have to sit down and learn how to braid just for the fun of it.

Diamond B Leather carries a couple of makers too. http://diamondbleather.com/ Barry King, Hackbarth, Hides to Art and their own line of Diamond B tools. They also carry my burnishers but they aren't on the website yet. Chris

ah, yeah sorry. I didn't read the full post where it says they are solid. i bought mine from Sears and it's pre-drilled and comes with 3 press bits (I do some metal working so those were handy). Here's a link if you want to take a look: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00974879000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4 I have found that the 1/2 ton is more than enough for most stamps and small clicker dies (the type made for hitting).

What I did is simply take a grinder (or a file will do) to the standard Tandy handle and shaved a touch of the outside diameter down to fit in the arbor arm for the 1/2". As for the 1/4", you should be able to find a bushing at the local hardware store that has a 1/4" diameter hole for the tools and a 1/2" outside diameter for the arbor arm. They don't have to be much as you don't have side-to-side pressure so all the bushing is doing is center the tool in the arbor arm.

A client approached me a few weeks ago and showed me a set of coasters on Etsy that were simply 8 coaster rounds that someone had used a woodburning pen to draw in the lines and stitches. They were supposed to be baseballs with no color, just burned lines on brown leather and charging way too much for the little amount of work. So his question was, what can I do to make them a bit more real looking. Here's the finished set that I made for him (it's a doctoring school grad gift for his future son-in-law) who is a Red Sox fan. Everything is 6oz. W&C leather, the coasters are dyed with Fiebings white dye and then punched and stitched with red .045" thread so they feel semi-realistic when handled. The back of the coasters has dark brown suede for the dirt (and to keep them from sliding around). The holder was the tie in piece, with the Red Sox "B" logo on one side and the rest incorporates elements from a ball park; grass, whitewashed fencing and wood grain for the bats. Painted with Golden Fluid acrylics..

That does suck. If you do go about telling the real deal on the forums, don't forget to report them to the BBB in their area and the national. You also still have the option, I believe, of taking them to small claims court since it's under $5k. 4 seats x $400+/- = well worth your time to pursue it. Thanks for letting the rest of us know.

Thanks KT

Thanks Chris! And you're right, it is. The smile on his face when it was all installed was priceless.

Thanks folks, it was pretty challenging to figure some parts of it out (it was only my second holster and first with my own pattern). Yep, actually I laid the holes out on the welt and then used my drill press and a long 1/16" drill bit to open them up. that plus a 2" long needle and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it through...