ConradPark

Not saying this is the case, but most YKK zippers are actually made at the same place, regardless of what different supplier claims. Now YKK have many different kinds of zippers as I'm sure you're aware but the four most common types are their basic aluminum ones, these are as you said, crap - always. Then they have their plated ones. Price wise they are almost as cheap but they are considerable harder and more durable. Looking wise they are difficult to differ from the aluminum ones. Then they have their brass zippers. These are the ones I always buy. They are very good and only like 15-20% more expensive than the basic ones (Here in the UK I pay like 70p for 8inch zipper including taxes) to confuse things more, the non gold colored are plated as well. Finally there are the top one that is called Excel (I think) and these are almost identical to RiRi zippers both to look and price. What I'm trying to say, is that it's very possible that you have been sold the aluminum or basic plated ones, and looking wise it's hard to tell the difference. I would just approach a supplier and ask them to send out a sample of a brass zipper. I don't think you will be disappointed.

If you PM me I can link you to my website. I'm based in London and make leather goods for a living.

Everyone to their own. I use mainly 4-5oz vegetable tanned, full grain leather and sometimes 3-3.5 oz for interiors. My customers prefer the more sturdy and rigid feel with thicker full grain and veg tan leather (it gets mellow with use) and it makes for a wallet that will last and last.

Bumping this up as I am still looking for stitching horses, but please only contact me if you 1. actually have a stitching horse like the one in the picture for sale. I do not need any advice on how to make one or be convinced that other models work as good, thanks. 2. That you already know how much the shipping cost to London, UK will be and can quote me that straight away. This is mainly to save all of us time.

Many makers don't bother to do any edge polishing on piglining and suede. Two variations are to either skive and turn the piglining or to skive and turn the outer leather, but so it covers the edge of the piglining on the inside.

Nice one!

Like any job, it's about contacts, will power and some luck. It also depends about what you actually want to do! Most larger fashion houses for example, have their own 'school' or education program, or run a intern ship program. And how to get into that is of course very individual. For example, here in the UK Mulberry run a internship program for their leather workers. 2 years minimum. And application is through the local job center. Hermes have a similar 2 year training program for some of their leather artisans, however you have to pay serious money, speak fluent French, have a fashion degree background and there is still no guarantee that you will get a job... The smaller leather studios are more likely to be a certain word of mouth kind of thing, however I have seen some leather workshops here in London sometimes put up a sign in the window about staff wanted - even for leather workers. On this forum, I have sometimes seen saddle makers announce that they are looking for intern, also on FB and Instagram, I have seen makers sometimes announce vacancies. I think you need to narrow down exactly what it is within leather work you want to do, and unless you decide to start your own business (and that has very little to do with leather work) I would suggest that you contact the companies that you would want to work for and simply ask them what their requirements are, in order for you to be able to work for them. Good luck.

I can't see any picture of the tooled leather.

Looks good! I understand that this belt is all about the tooled veg tan, however my personal opinion is that it seems such a waste to use the Horween as a lining, it should be the main attraction in it's own right! Wouldn't have been less attractive belt if your lining been another layer of veg tan - maybe calf, if you want to go thinner and a bit more exclusive. Another humble suggestion for future reference - is that if you use a supple leather that doesn't burnish very well, use a edge paint that's plastic in it's base, to cover the whole edge (like Fenice) or taper/skive the supple edges with either a skiving machine if you've got one or a skiving knife (does take some skill, though), then turn them over towards the back so that the edges are 'turned' and rounded nicely. The tapered edge should make everything flush so that you don't get a bump at the edges where the layers are double. A bit of extra work but in my opinion would make it look even more exclusive. Anyway, you're obviously doing well regardless!

When I make a pattern, I first decide the total size I want, the leather thickness I want, then I just make a stitching line where it needs to be. I tend to almost always stay around 3mm, but that's a personal preference. Unless the total thickness is more than 6mm I might change the stitch line to be 4mm. And if it's really thin, I might decrease one mm. While traditionally you're supposed to roughly have the same distance as the total thickness, I think it looks bad when the stitch line is wide. However, I do not make Horse saddles, where I can believe that this things are slightly more important than from just an esthetical point of view.

Well, you should sew around the edges... And yes, it's as strong as any glue, as long as you've sprayed on both the meeting sides and let it dry just a minute before bonding it together. Once the edges been sewn together/ you assembled the whole bag, it will hold.

Everyone is offended by something, and in this day and age it's easier than ever to vent ones view in public. For example, one could be offended by political and religious preaching of any kind, and if this or any site was truly neutral, ALL those things would be banned. That would mean no religious symbolism, regardless if it's a David star or a Cross or an Om sign or whatever. No biblical quotes or blessings that can feel disconcerting for people that doesn't share that particular religious belief. No political statements like Confederate flags that many people indeed feel is a ignorant and racist symbol, no WW2 Nazi symbols of any kind as it's actually outlawed in many countries around the world (yeah, I know - you guys are only into collecting WW2 memorabilia), gun branding (Sorry US people, but this is an international site and in most countries guns are not only outlawed, its seems quite offensive too, considering all the murder and gun related violence that happens everywhere) and so on, most of this, that in my personal opinion should be considered far bigger issues to deal with then any skull imagery shown on this site. Now, of course nothing of the above are being regulated in any way here. Regardless if it's offensive to some or not, ALL of the above are featured on this site on a regular basis. Regardless if one like it or not it seems like the best way for everyone is to just be and let be. There is an adult section for adult stuff, profane language and sexual motif, but I can't see that skulls should be regulated to that section before any of the other 'offensive' stuff. I'm being slightly sarcastic, by the way. So no need for any heated debate. That's not my intention. I just wish people could be a bit less complaining and more encouraging, less ignorant or if that's not possible, at least ignorant to the level that they ignore what they don't like.

There is no one way that's right, some will use urethane based glue, aka cement glue, applied with a large brush, some will use a glue gun/airbrush, others are fine with water based white glue. Even ordinary PVA glue for general craft, wood and paper will work fine. The very simple thing to do though, even if it's a bit unconventional, is to buy a spray can of permanent adhesive like 3M photo mount. Spray both sides that are going to be glued together on some news paper out doors, wait a minute, move them to a clean surface and put the glue sides together, roll over with a baking roller (clean, preferable) to ensure there are no air pockets left. It's cheap, quick and hassle free. Good luck.

Nice. Brave of you to link to a video. Lately everything here seems to be mostly criticism so be prepared to get a comment for that video. Good thing you didn't do anything with skulls, because then you would really start to offend people. Anyway, cool work!

There are already several threads about all kind of wallet making and free templates available on this forum. And there is a search function available. Do some work first and you'll probably see that most questions have already been asked and answered...

EfrainBG is definetly on the right track. Also, I suspect, that if the small pocket is around 10-12cm in length, it shouldn't be too difficult to saddle stitch, even with only one thread starting 'normally' at one side. As long as you don't sew the large side panel together with the body until the smaller outer pockets are done first. While the main body is obviously sewn outside in, the side pockets are most likely done with all stitching holes made before sewing, then the pocket sides sewn onto the body side panel, and then the pocket 'outside' stitched on last, and because the leather seem very soft and as long as the main body haven't been sewn together yet, it really shouldn't be any trouble reaching anywhere with normal sized hands... Basically, it looks more impressive than it is.

You need to go with your instincts, and do something if it seems like a good idea. Sometimes it will work out, sometimes it doesn't. Imagine if everyone here would answer you no, don't do it. Why would our opinions matter about your imagined project?? It's different when you actually have made something. First of all, I can promise you that you will instantly know whats right and wrong with the finished project, without having heard anyone else opinions. Secondly, It's easier for everyone to give more constructive criticism, however, in the end its only opinions and the most important opinion should be your own. Unless its something for a customer. Then the customers opinion is the only thing that matters. So don't be afraid, just go and do your wallet. The only way to learn a craft is by actually doing it.

Google, my friend, unless you pay someone to do it for you! First rule of engagement is to do it yourself.

You are aware that people from all over the world are on this forum right? And have you ever seen a professional ad for work or been to a job center? What I'm trying to say, is that you need to give some basic info. First of all, where are you located, as in what country. How many hours a week, is it a full time or part time position you're offering? Is it paid proper wages or is it one of this work placement/intern vacancies you're offering. What about holiday pay and pension? I'm not kidding. Are you looking for someone with qualifications and great experience in leather working or are hobbyists fine? Does the applicant need experience with industrial machines? What do you offer that would make people interested to work for you? Where are the links to your business so people can find out if it's worthwhile to seek out a position with your business? If you fail to provide info like the above mentioned, you are not only not going to get any serious response, you actually come across very unreliable and amateurish. Finally, this post should be in the Help Wanted section, so you should probably re-post your inquiry there.

The answer is already available both here on the forum or by google or/and by looking at how these two stitches are actually done. There is also the alternative to use a sewing machine, as the stitch will be hidden. While a lock stitch might not be the most secure stitch, its good enough to be used to make millions of bags every day. The best way, though, is to actually making a couple of versions of your bag, and to try them out. That way you can make your own decisions based on your own experiences. Good luck.

How much does your friend charge for making one of these?

If you are using veg tan leather and already have your stamps, a good investment is an arbor press. They are easy to get hold of, cheap and u can use the press instead of a hammer to set snaps, make stitching holes with a pricking iron etc. They normally come in 1/2,1,2,3 ton sizes and the only difference is how much effort you need to put in when you press, the higher number, the less effort it takes but the machines are more expensive. A 2 ton press goes a long way in my opinion. Buy a couple of half inch thick steel plates and you can sandwich a cutter template and leather to have a home made, cheap alternative to a clicker press. (Only works well on smaller designs, like key fobs or card holders.)

Don't forget that a career as an artisan working with leather, regardless of discipline, have more options than being self employed or running your own business (and the success of this, has more to do with knowing business in general than leathercraft/work discipline itself). What I have noticed on this forum over the years, is that there are a profound lack of active members that belongs to the group of professional leather artisans or business owners of established brands that offers leather goods, so throwing out this kind of question here is a bit like a wasted effort. What I'm trying to say is that all the established leathergoodsbrands in the world, regardless if it's luxury brands or more hipster or sport or whatever, are made by someone. The manufacturer world is yet to have robots doing everything, and far from popular belief, not all leatherworkers are from Asia. Brands like Hermes have a couple of thousand leather workers working for them in France only. Mulberry's own manufacture plant here in England have around 300 leather workers, and so on and so on, and these people have real wages, pensions, holiday pay and so forth, like as in any other proper profession. To be a leatherworker/artisan and make a living out of it is no more difficult than anything else. The trick is rather to know how to find work, where to get the foot in (apprenticeship or a college/university education) or to try to be a business owner (and again, this has very little to do with what commodity one chooses). Anyway, in the end of the day I'm sure your child will find his own interest and direction as an adult, regardless, and who knows, maybe he wants to be a dancer or painter instead!

It's not about right and wrong and I make no such claims, rather it's about transparency. People need to be aware about the fact that without sinking money into advertising they won't be able to have 10 000 followers after only 47 posted pictures on their Instagram like you. (And according to your own later admitted advertising formula, it should have taken you between a year to one and a half to get that many followers, but I suspect that you haven't had your account for that long, rather paid for a bunch of followers at once.) In your original post you didn't mention anything about paying for followers, hence I felt it was needed to point that option out. And again, organic growth might not be more right from an business point, nor did I claim it to be. However it is without doubt - real and honest.

Interesting article for the person that is unfamiliar with social media, however you forgot to include how to do, when to buy likes/followers from 'booster companies', and pros and cons to why to do such a thing. Also, it might be worth to mention the importance of the quality of the photos, the tactics of when and how often to upload pictures, replying to comments, experimenting with subjects, holding contests, follow other relevant users, but most importantly, the fact that real, honest, organic growth takes time. In fact, it takes a long, long time. Most people should not expect more than a couple of thousand followers even after posting a few hundred pictures during a 18 month period. Guess there is always the one amazing exception.