Wizcrafts

When you see a thread size like (digits)/3, it is describing a 3 cord cotton or polyester, or polycore garment thread. Then there are spun silk thread sizes. These measurements, especially the Japanese NM system do not correlate to bonded thread sizes in any direct manner. For a full explanation, read this page on SuperiorThreads.com

I like how Patrick fitted the hand wheel from an old domestic Singer machine onto his industrial 188k. Not only did it have a bigger diameter - slowing the machine down a bit - but also has a release mechanism to wind bobbins on its built in bobbin winder, without driving the machine itself. The coat hanger to secure the reverse lever was interesting too.

From your photos it is obvious that this machine is set-up for upholstery sewing at higher speeds. It has a 2850 rpm motor and about a 3:4 pulley ratio. It will definitely get long seams sewn in almost no time! As for sewing slowly, that depends on the new owner being able to feather the clutch, or replace the motor with a servo motor.

Thanks Floyd!

See this thread and needle size chart

We now have a separate section of the forum where 3D printers and Laser Cutters are discussed and plans posted. If you get time, would you post your photo and files of the 3D printed pulleys in that forum for others to benefit from?

Lindy; Give Bob Kovar (who replied to you earlier) a phone call on Monday, when he's in his shop (Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines). He knows the pitches of all the screws used in Singer industrial sewing machines and has all manner of spare and replacement parts. His shop # is: 866 362-7397

The following assumes that your machine had a screw in/out device on the back of the flywheel and the threads are stripped out. There is a long rod stitcking into the machine with a sharply tapered end, like the pencil point, but steel. Flip open the top cover. Rotate the handwheel slowly. On one end you will find a double sew screw set. The other side has a cap screw that holds a badass spring and ball bearing in place. You absolutely don't want to unscrew the cap screw! Rather, unscrew the top set screw on the other side. Inside is a second set screw that sets the stitch length. Screw in down to increase and out to decrease the stitch length. Reinstall the stop set screw when you get the right stitch length. Then oil the moving block assembly on that offset assembly.

I have a buddy in Saginaw, Mi who owns a Cobra Class 4. The original motor was a brushless servo that started spinning with a jerk at 200 RPM (divided by the speed reducer pulleys). It had an adjuster screw that set the upward control arm travel limit. Raising it to the top gave the slowest startup speed and longest travel downward (increasing speed) the motor was capable of. The motor uses reverse EMF to brake as you release or slightly apply the pedal. When the pedal is not engaged the motor should be freewheeling. There are graduated transparencies available to taper the speed change more gradually. Contact Leather Machine Company to obtain one in the mail. If your motor no longer brakes at all, it is failing. Consider replacing it with a newer type of servo that starts at zero RPM and increases very gradually without any modifications and has a physical cork brake when the pedal is backed off.

See if the motor's speed pedal is letting the the motor control arm return all the way up against its stop. If you motor's arm has a stop screw adjuster, back it off to gain more upward movement.

Different manufacturers used to assign their own system codes to needles when they produced those lines, many of which were based on early Adler, Pfaff and Singer needles. European needle makers called their needles by different codes than American/Canadian makers. There is a gap between SAE/ISO and Metric measurements, so needles made to different measurement systems get different names, even though the geometry may end up the same.

You'll need a machine with as much longer needle to sew 1.1cm. They most affordable model I know of that is available in the land of OZ is the Cowboy CB3200, which can sew a solid 1/2 inch of leather with heavy thread. Lookup our members Singermania and Darren Brosowski for pricing and shipping details.

Yes, that's exactly the Mother machine that is being cloned. The actual Juki model code is TSC-441. This machine is stlll being produced in Japan.

BTW: The Juki U bobbins have twice the capacity of a standard 111 type bobbin and are even bigger than the M style used in many newer walking foot machines.

We have several industrial sewing machine dealers in Australia who are contributing members in this forum. All of them deal in leather sewing machines.

Your Juki LU uses Juki LU bobbins, which fill the bobbin basket with just enough clearance to spin freely. Further, there should be a star shaped anti-spin spring under the bobbin. Make sure you have threaded the top thread around the check spring and that it has clicked into the race around the spring. If you forget the check spring, the top thread can easily get caught in the bobbin post.

Fisrt of all, your bobbin is smaller than the bobbin race. That allows it to wiggle around and shake thread loose. It also appears to be shorter than the top of its post, so it may flop up and down as well. All this unexpected slack may be causing your thread hangup. Unknown is if the timing is spot on, or retarded, or advanced. Make sure your check spring is holding the top thread taut until the needle goes through the leather.

It was a good question in itself. However, some of us have 6 or more sewing machines in regular use. My usage for machine X may differ from member Z's usage. For instance, I have my Singer compound feed walking foot machines setup so one uses only #69 and the other only #92 thread. The reason for this is because their job is to sew patches onto Biker's vests and zippers into jackets. The only hard leather they sew are phone cases and wallets, both of which are under 1/8 inch thick. You may want to use machines like those to sew 3/8 of an inch with #138 thread. So, my usage would be misleading as to the capabilities of those machines. I have a friend who sews rifle slings and guitar straps on a Cobra Class 4. He only uses #138 and #207 thread and the average thickness along the edges is 1/8 inch. This in no way describes the capacity of that machine, which easily sews 3/4 inch with much heavier thread. It might make more sense to ask members what machines and thread/needle combinations do you use to sew wallets | phone cases | knife sheathes | holsters | belts | chaps | vests, upholstery leather, etc.

Backstitching with a barbed needle involves rotating the work 180 degrees and carefully lining the needle up on the side of a previous lockstitch. It can be inside the same hole, but must not lay directly on the knot or the existing stitches. Sometimes, rotating the needle a bit makes it easier to lay stitches next to each other, in the same holes. Pick a direction and stay with that alignment.

First of all, decide if you intend to use the post machine to sew fancy stitching, or to simply sew seams together. Second, decide if you are okay with a single needle, or if a double needle is in your best interest. Third, establish what range of stitch lengths will look best in your designs. Fourth, choose a range of thread sizes. Finally, pick the type of feed that suits you work. This could be a large (~1") or small (~3/4") roller foot, which gives the best visibility of where the needle will enter the material. These machines are best suited to decorative stitching. Roller foot post machines come in bottom feed only, or top and bottom synchronized feed. The latter is much more expensive. Other feed types are flat foot and walking foot. The flat foot could be right, left, or double toe and is best used with simple stitch lines and piped seams. The walking foot systems work best when you have to sew up and down new layers. Once you have established the required specs, go hunt down the best machine that meets them at a price you can afford. Don't make the mistake of thinking that any post machine will do for shoe making. Some are limited in stitch length (too short or too long). Others in needle and thread size. Some have 6" posts while others are taller. Some have large bobbins that take up more room on the right side of the needle and increase the entire footprint of the business end of the post. All of our industrial sewing machine dealers sell and service post machines of all descriptions. You can buy a good condition used Singer, Adler or Pfaff post machine (with a motor and table) from about $1,000 to $1800. New Chinese post machines usually sell for about $2,000 and up, depending on the type of feed and number of needles. The last options would be type of motor and whether a speed reducer is installed or not.

Of course the foot pressure matters! You can back it off until the leather lifts with the ascending needle. That's when you get skipped stitches. It is a problem with all aniline, retan and veg-tan leathers. It is not usually a problem on chrome tan. The basic rule is: if the leather has a memory and holds impressions, don't use a top tooth feeder. Or, if you do, learn to either rub out, or explain away the tooth marks.

Use the standard white lily oil made for industrial sewing machines. It is sold by all industrial sewing machine dealers.

That sounds right and puts it in competition with the Adler 869 that our advertiser Weaver Leather sells for about $8500.

Back around 1989 through 1990, I purchased several Juki LU-563s for myself and business associates. I got the cheapest one at a discount for bringing sales business to the dealer. That traded in machine cost me $1200 back around 1990. the other 563s cost the buyers $2200 each. I post this as a reference for what these machines used to sell for, new and used, from Juki dealers.

Chrisash; There is something I can pass on to you that worked fairly well for me, with a domestic sewing machine. I used to rebuild and sell old domestic Singer sewing machines in my leather shop (I am inside an antiques mall). There was one class of machine that surpassed all the others I've had for transporting and sewing leather. I am referring to the ancient model 127 and 128 bullet shuttle machines. They had very aggressive teeth on the feed dog, which also had fairly high protrusion. I was able to thread these machines with #92 bonded nylon thread and sew 12 ounces of bridle leather at 5 to the inch. This was using the standard steel foot and cranking down the pressure screw. The feed dog dug in far enough that the leather didn't stall. I don't know if there is a "heavy duty" feed dog available for your 201, but I'd search for one. You will need to replace the throat plate with the feed dog (the slots are wider). They are often sold in kits with new screws. Do that, then try a roller foot.