Wizcrafts

While I'm not interested is pursuing a name that clone / whack a mole games, I can save you and others watching this topic a lot of time by simply cutting to the chase. When one has decided to invest in a new sewing machine that meets their needs, one should buy a brand that is well supported by a known dealer (or network of dealers) that is in the same Country as the buyer. That dealer should be known for offering timely replies to technical and operational questions from their buyers. They should stock replacement parts for the machines they sell and have accessories that are commonly available for that machine. The dealer should be familiar with the capabilities of each model machine that they carry from any given manufacturer. After years of experimentation, our collective membership has helped to narrow down the number of brand names and dealers to the few who are proven to be reliable. Our combined experience has eliminated a plethora of strange brand names, including some house brands belonging to eBay dealers. We have learned which brands are made in top tier factories and which are from bottom of the barrel companies that are here today and gone tomorrow. The last thing a new inexperienced sewer needs is to become their own dealer by purchasing a sewing machine directly from China. The importer becomes the dealer and assumes all responsibility for parts, adjustments and repairs. Broken machines would have to be shipped back to the manufacturer in China, at the dealer's expense. No-name machines don't usually have any real support network. They are found on eBay and in small dealerships that slap their own badge on a Chinese machine. As for trusted brands, look at the ads on the top of our pages. Also, note the names of the dealers who reply to questions in our forums. A few of them are also on eBay, but are well known for offering valuable information here.

I have a long body Singer walking foot machine that has been retro-fitted with a Juki LU hook. Despite being as timed as it can be, top to bottom shafts, the top thread still tends to snap on the way around the bobbin and shuttle. I am able to alleviate this by rotating disk #24 to the right, after loosening screw #25. The far right position feeds more slack thread into the shuttle and compensates for the much larger diameter hook that was over-stressing the thread. Unmodified machines rarely need to have the disk moved from dead center in the slot. But, one can use this adjustment to fine tune how much slack thread is fed to the shuttle on the downstroke.

Not yet mentioned is the purpose of the screw in the little curved slot on the front of the check spring assembly, over the shaft and nut. This lets you fine tune how much slack thread is sent to the bobbin and shuttle; aka: the throw. Turning it all the way clockwise feeds more thread on the downstroke and around the bobbin case. Turning it counterclockwise feeds less thread to the shuttle. If your threads is snapping a bit as the thread goes around the shuttle, try adjusting the throw using the set screw.

To my knowledge, the feet and plates on the Consew machines are regular steel. You would have to locate a custom set of feet to get stainless to fit that machine. The Cowboy stainless feet are custom made for the big harness stitchers only. They will fit other 441 clones. The stainless throat plates may or may not fit other brands of 441 clones.

I rarely sew wet leather. But, when I do, I sew it on my Cowboy CB4500, which has stainless steel feet and throat plates. The feet and feed dog will dig into the leather, so you should back off the foot pressure to the minimum needed to hold the leather down as the needle ascends. Because the thread will be pulled deeply into the surfaces of the wet leather, increase your stitch length to at least 5 to the inch, if not longer.It might even be a good idea to reduce both the top and bottom tensions for a lighter thread lay in the wet leather.

Take off your presser foot, take it to Joann Fabrics or a sewing store and compare its length and mounting bracket to those that they sell. I'm reasonably certain you will have a standard domestic machine foot. They are called low shank. Kenmore machines use a high shank foot. These are harder to find anymore.

A walking foot machine has three bars coming down out of the head. One is the needle bar. The next one inline is the vibrating or alternating foot bar. The third bar is the presser foot bar. The way they work is that the material is pulled back by a combination of a moving needle, a moving alternating foot and a lifting/lowering presser foot, in coordination with the moving feed dog. Your Brother 280 is not an industrial sewing machine. It only has a needle bar and presser bar. All of the feed is on the bottom via the teeth on the feed dog. The attachment that you think is a walking foot is really only an even feed foot for quilts. I had one for a while on a domestic sewing machine and all it did on leather was reduce the thickness I could sew. It didn't help move the leather. It did however stop the two layers from separating as much as would happen with a standard flat foot pressing down on the top layer. Bottom line is yes, you can buy a mislabeled even feed foot attachment. It will not convert or upgrade your machine into a walking foot machine. It does the same work as a Teflon or roller equipped foot does.

I don't. But, if you post a sharper photo of it somebody may recognize what it is cloning. Sometimes a dealer will rebrand a no-name Chinese or Japanese sewing machine with their house brand name. Knowing this will help you find the missing parts and learn its probable specs. To me, it looks like a high speed tailoring machine. If you look at the bottom and see a sump pump oil pickup, this will be confirmed. A forced oil machine needs to sit on a special oil pan and gasket. The pan needs to be filled to a certain mark to have the oil pumped to all the moving parts. Failure to do this results in the machine seizing. FWIIW: Your 241 is also a high speed, oil pump machine. It must sit on top of a properly filled oil pan. Machines like this are expected to be operated at around 4000 rpm on a regular basis. They are usually setup on a table that has a clutch motor equipped with a pulley that is larger than the machine's pulley.

That's an industrial sewing machine! Funny, that the Google results for New Home 764 all showed a domestic zig zag machine from the mid 20th Century. It is probably a rebranded tailoring machine. I see a rotary stitch length dial and a push down reverse lever. It is meant to be mounted on top of an industrial sewing machine table and powered by either a clutch or servo motor. The machine pulley is quite small, indicating that this is a high speed machine. The top photo is not sharp enough to see what parts are there and what is missing.

It probably takes the same HAx1 needles as all currently made domestic sewing machines. You can buy these needles at Joann Fabrics, Walmart, Hobby Lobby, etc. These needles have a flat side on the upper shank that makes sure they are properly aligned for the hook to pick off the thread loop. You can buy them in packs of 5 for a few dollars, or so. The smaller the size number, the smaller the needle and finer the thread. The largest commonly sold size would be #18 (aka: 110), which can pass button hole thread through the eye. I am curious why you asked about this type of household machine on the Leather Sewing Machines Forum? The New Home is definitely NOT a leather sewing machine!

Here is a copy of the Singer 29k71 through 73 parts list and operator's manual. You would read the pages specific to the 29k72, which is a long arm big bobbin machine like your clone. 29k71-71-73 Service Manual and Parts List.pdf

In the case of Windows and Internet Exploder, the operating system must provide playback support files called "codecs." Your operating system is likely missing the required "codec" to play the .m3u8 file type used in that video. Apparently, you need both Windows 10 AND Internet Explorer 11 to play this UTF-8 encoded file type in IE. It already plays in Edge browsers, on Win 10. I think your best bet is to use VLC Player for the m3u8 files until you upgrade to Windows 10.

When did Dell take control of your laptop and why? Are you certain it was actually Dell and not a tech support scammer in India? As was mentioned earlier, you could download VLC Player and try to play the video in that app. The player can actually register itself as a plug-in for Firefox browsers (at least up to the current version, 56).

The 30-1 is similar to a Singer 29k73 patcher in that it maxes out at just over 1/4 inch, with #92 thread. It has a longer arm than the standard patchers. This particular model uses the same tiny bobbins as the Singer 29-4 of yesteryear. I want you to understand up front that this is a patching and repairs sewing machine. Shoe shops use them to darn rips and torn thread in shoe uppers. Others take them to motorcycle shows to sew patches onto Bikers' vests and jackets. They are very useful for replacing tabs on ladies' purses, as well as zippers in purses and pouches. Do not even consider using a patcher to sew gun holsters! The thread it uses is way too small and has a fairly low breaking strength that can cause the stitches to separate when a gun is pushed hard into a holster. The tiny bobbins can only hold small diameter thread efficiently. The smaller the thread, the longer one can sew before changing bobbins. Most folks use #69 bonded thread in small bobbin patchers.

What type of computer operating system or hand held device, as well as brand and version web browser are you using to try to open the video? Some systems may not be able to open this video unless the correct video codec is installed. Further, if you run a script blocker, the video cannot be loaded. I was able to open it in Firefox, Chrome, Edge and Internet Explorer on Windows 10.

If it helps you, the System 135x16 and 17 needles are 1.75" long. They are ubiquitous and used in a huge percentage of walking foot machines, as well as Singer patchers. If the machine was designed to use a longer needle system and you adjust the needle bar for System 135x16, you'll lose some of the clearance and lift that was built into the machine. If most of your work is under that height it won't matter too much.

Which Juki model were you looking into that costs 7k? Pfaff machines use a lot of proprietary parts that are very expensive compared to Juki parts.

There happens to be a machine for holsters that is priced at your stated budget. It is the Cowboy CB3200 that can sew up to 1/2 inch of leather with #346 bonded thread.

Photos can be deceiving. In the case of the eBay domestic sewing machines shown sewing leather, what you don't know is that the maximum thread size is #69 bonded. That thread has about 11 pounds breaking strength. The largest needle for these machines is a #18, which is perfect for #69 thread. Like all domestic sewing machines, this one has bottom feed and a fixed presser foot. All the motion comes from the bottom. The foot's job is to hold down the leather as the stitches are formed. But, leather can be sticky on top, or very dense. If this is the case, the foot pressure needs to be cranked all the way down. This impedes the transporting of the bottom feed dogs, which were designed to feed cloth. As a side note to the tiny built in motors on the 15-91. They emit an awesome plume of smoke when the blow up from straining to sew hard or thick leather! The smell fills the house or shop with wondrous odors of burnt wiring.

Where did you end up getting the narrow feed dog and throat plate from? I want to buy a set too.

I buy thread from many sources. Sometimes even a formerly perfect spool from a supplier will cause problems with the next spool I open. I try to find Made In USA or Canada (Cansew) thread. Otherwise, I buy Cowboy brand bonded nylon and polyester thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, or, once in a while, Weaver's heavily lubricated bonded nylon thread..

Nope. That is not how it should be. The inside foot is usually adjusted so it hits the material just as or after the tip of the needle. It should stay on the material until the needle has lifted out of the material, or at least almost until then. You can raise and lower the inside foot, as per your user manual, to get this to happen. It is the inside foot that raises and lowers the presser foot. When the inside foot begins to lift off the material, the outside foot should be smack down on the top layer, holding it in place.

This sounds like a thread problem. Buy different thread and try again, top and bottom.

Kat; The link you posted goes to the viewer's Google Drive account, not yours. You will have to share a photo or photos and place a link to your shared files. Or, better, just reduce a few photos and upload them to here.

Here are the System 135x16 needles I have been buying from an eBay seller. They are Organ brand and most certainly titanium coated and leather point. They fit the 29k patchers perfectly.