Wizcrafts

It looks like it might be a twin needle machine. I looked through some pictures of various Juki machines and only twin needle models even resemble yours, with the three plates around the throat plate.

The 111w103 is actually an upholstery sewing machine. Equipped with a leather point needle it can sew rifle slings, guitar straps, lined belts, pouches, cases, vests, jackets, as well as seat covers and light horse tack. If you use #138 bonded thread the work should hold together as it has 22 pounds test. Change to a round point needle and it will do a fine job sewing vinyl, webbing, sailcloth, awnings, Sunbrella, signs, banners and denim garments. You can determine the condition of the stitch length adjuster by turning it clockwise and counterclockwise as you sew. the farther in you turn it the longer the stitches will be and vice versa. If the adjuster turns smoothly in and out without jumping , and the stitch length varies as you turn it, assume the threads are intact. If it turns so far then jumps back, some threads are broken off. If nothing happens as you turn the knob, the threads or the puck on the knob are shot. The tapered shaft with the knob is replaceable. I paid $100 for the last one I bought. It needed work to get it going dependably. A friend bought one for $300 and then had to invest in a new timing belt, then paid me to replace it. Not a fun job! HINT: If the stitch adjuster threads are shot but the machine forms good tight stitches, offer less due to the defect. Then learn about how you can change the stitch length under the hood. It isn't as convenient as turning the knob, but it works once you learn how to do it. I learned this secret from traveling Romanian Gypsies who wore babuskas as they sewed on machines that went Tapokita Tapokita.

You can probably find lower profile feet, or grind down and polish the bottom of a standard set.

So, lower the presser and vibrating foot bars until they clear the needebar.

Try advancing the hook a couple degrees. Also, loosen the set screw in the check spring disks and rotate them clockwise to the right of center. You might also have to back off the round nut on the shaft. I change my check spring centering often so I leave the set screw a little loose in the slot and loosen/tighten the round nut when I want to readjust the position in the slot. This setting gives more or less slack thread to the hook. I rarely change the bottom stop bracket once it is dialed in.

I had one of those machines until a year ago. I used it to sew wallets and vests with #69 and #92 bonded thread. That machine should sew a 1/4 inch stack of veg-tan belt leather with #138 bonded thread, using a #23 leather point needle, but you'll have to crank down the foot pressure screw. It can actually sew 5/16 inch, but probably not hard density leather. It uses what is defined as a standard 1x capacity type "G" bobbin, which also used in the later model 111w155. You need to be aware that the stitch length is adjusted by turning a knob on a pointed end shaft that protrudes from the center of the balance wheel. The knob has a little puck on the inside that rides inside tapered threads that are machined into the end of the main shaft. The main shaft is bored to accept the tapered shaft. The further in the adjuster goes, the longer the stitch length will be and vice versa. The problem is that those threads weaken and break off after years of use and abuse. It is difficult to find proper threaded replacement shafts and the replacement job is very complex.

It won't sew any higher or use heavier thread. But, it does have reverse. The bobbins are the same size G. Both machines are clones of the venerable Singer 111w155. There was a Juki LU-563 that had a larger double capacity bobbin and reverse. That would be an upgrade for you. The reverse function may need to be tweaked to get the stitches to line up in fwd and rev.

Your needle/hook timing is probably retarded. The hook should arrive at least 1/16" above the eye after the needle lifts 3/32" above BDC. I time mine a little higher up in the scarf. Until I did the top thread made a snapping sound going around the hook and the check spring double or triple stroked. Advancing the timing can cure this. Once you time the machine properly your check spring adjustments will be more effective.

Please post a close up photo showing how the thread is feeding into the top tension disks. Show the entire tension plate. It could be threaded incorrectly. Also, examine the thread path from the spool to the needle. See if it encounters any burrs along the way, or gets twisted around a guide or post, or gets caught under the spool, or wraps around itself coming off the spool. Gotta go to work. Good luck..

I can't help you with troubleshooting that machine as I don't have one to use as a reference.

Here are two manuals courtesy of Consew. One is the operator's manual and the other is the parts numbers book. 226R-1 Operator.pdf 226R-1 Parts.pdf

I found a typo and some inaccuracies. Adler is misspelled Addler. Also, you included Cowboy 29 and 227 machines in the thread size 207 group which they don't belong in. You also included the CB29 in the #277 group which is way beyond it capabilities.

This Needle and Thread Chart will help you choose the best combinations.

This photo was take during WW1 and was in the collection of British Field Marshall Earl Haig.

I buy thread from different stores. Most of it comes from our Cowboy sewing machine dealer. Others come from Superior Thread, or Wawak. I still have some Weaver bonded nylon thread, but is very twisty and expensive. Your machine uses the ubiquitous system 135x16 and 135x17 needles. They are sold everywhere industrial sewing machines are sold and serviced. I buy some Japanese needles on eBay that are titanium coated and like them just fine. But, now and then I want something a little better made and buy Schmetz or Groz Beckert needles.

I do not recommend using #207 thread in that machine. I have the same machine in my shop and limit it to #138 maximum, using a #23/160 needle. The 2700 is normally used with thinner thread, like #69 and #92. It is not strong enough to regularly punch through with #207 thread. But, if you really want to use that thread, get some System 135x16 (leather pt) or 135x17 (round pt) needles in size 24. Just make sure you understand how to re-time the needle bar to the hook after you knock it out of time.

Those are oil wicks. Please stick them back inside the head and make sure they contact the needle bar and inside foot bar.

You will have to join our forum and become a member to upload pictures to our server. However, you can post a link to an online image as a guest using the lower right button labeled: Insert image from URL That image will have to be hosted elsewhere.

Danielle; You will get better answers in you become a member and take your question to the Leather Sewing Machines forum. All posts and replies in the Help Wanted forum must wait for a moderator to see them and approve them before they are visible. Trying to troubleshoot in this section will be very frustrating. If you do join us, post a new topic in the Leather Sewing Machines forum. Include your machine make and model and post a picture or two showing your problem. As a member you can fill in a profile. Please include your location so you get properly targeted replies about sources of machines and parts.

I have learned to adjust the check spring tension and stroke according to the type of material and thread I am using. My most common combination is #92 (T90) bonded nylon thread, top and bottom, with a #19 (120) needle, into about 1/8 inch of leather, plus or minus. On my long arm machine, the top tension is fairly high most of the time. This is because I upgraded the tension spring to a heavy duty type. ;-) By running not too loose tensions I get tight stitches on the top and bottom of the work. (Aside: there are exceptions where I back off the top and bobbin tensions). I find that with this machine, which has been upgraded to use a Juki U hook and take-up lever, The top thread tends to snap as it passes around the hook. I can offset this by feeding a little more thread during the downstroke by playing with the check spring stopper and its position in the curved slot. It only takes a minute or two to find this setting and it makes it so much smoother to sew. Shortening the throw of the spring causes the top thread to be more slack on as the take-up lever starts down. The position of the screw in the slot in the disks fine tunes this. A standard factory setup usually has the screw in the dead center of the disks. Rotating the disks to the left increases the slack thread tension and vice versa. As for the travel, I always ensure that the spring holds the top thread taut until the needle fully goes through all layers. I NEVER let it continue holding the thread to BDC! That is asking for skipped stitches. The needle thread should have a little slack at BDC which increases as it moves up 3/32 inch to form a good loop for pickoff time. I have literally seen loops disappear on the upstroke when the check spring throw is too long. It is easy to watch this process on a shoe patcher. All of this is my opinion, based upon my own findings with my own sewing machines. Your results may vary.

This stuff should be posted in the Off Topic forum. We try to segment our topics and this section is for technical and operational leather sewing machine issues. Off topic has other political discussions going on.

Jeff; I went through the same thing with digital servo motors. Now I only buy analog control servo motors, such as those sold here. These motors can be setup with a tiny 45mm motor pulley, or a larger 70mm. The smaller one makes it easier to feather the machine for very slow sewing. The larger one gives more top speed. I find the larger one unnecessary in leather sewing where you probably won't want to exceed 10 to 15 stitches per second flat out.

The Juki LU-562 is a Japanese clone of the Singer 111w155. It uses the same "standard" size bobbin as the Singer 111. One is very good condition might be worth 4 or 5 hundred bucks; 6 tops. The Artisan on the pedestal stand might bring 1300 or so. It is a heavy duty stitcher that sold for about $2700 new. The Tippmann could be a Boss manual sewing machine, or an air operated sewing machine, or a clicker press. Which is it? If you want to try selling these machines on our forum, please place an ad in our Marketplace section, under Machinery > Sewing and stitching > Used. Include prices and your location, as well as contact info.

I have a similar machine (a clone). Wallets yes, holsters no!

I hope you didn't pay very much for this fixer upper! It needs a lot of parts and work.