Wizcrafts

That should not happen. Perhaps the set screw on the needle bar is slipping. That would throw off the timing in a few minutes, or less. Also, someone may have dinked with the timing gears and left the set screws loose under the machine. I also bought a 111w156 from an upholstery shop and it stays in time and sews with #92 thread all the time. Hint: you can set the reverse to match the forward stitches at up to 5/inch. If you want longer forward stitches, the reverse will be smaller and hit between the forward stitches. That is how it was made. ;-( When sewing cloth upholstery material this is not a big deal. Mine was originally set for 4 to the inch forward. I adjusted it to 5/inch to get the reverse into the same holes.

I still believe this to be true.

I have a 1920s Singer 31-15 also. Right now it is sitting on the floor in my shop. But, when I had a table for it I had it hooked up to a Family Sew servo motor, fitted with the smallest pulley they had (45 or 50mm). That table was sold along with a Singer 111w151 machine that shared the table with the 31-15. Things I learned about the 1920s versions of the 31-15 include the following... This model works best on broadcloth, or thin chrome tan leather, plus thin wallet interiors. It doesn't do so well on slippery materials. It is a true tailors' machine. My Dad owned one for 50 years in his tailor shop. The early versions from the 1920s have a fixed, pinned shuttle driver, making timing alterations very difficult. I have that model ;-( It is meant for small thread, like #69. It stumbles with #92 or above. I'm told that newer models can be tweaked to use #92 or even #138 thread. It must be well oiled before use. The oil leaks everywhere, so I kept a rag close to it. The machine takes all manner of special function presser feet. There are 4 different feed dog/throat plate combinations available. One combination is a flip up roller foot, with an inline feed dog and matching one row throat plate. It uses class 15 bobbins which are found everywhere sewing machine parts are sold. It uses the common tailoring machine System DBx1 needles, aka: Systems 16x257 and 1738 It is the industrial relative of the ancient domestic Singer 15-88 treadle machine, but with a clutch motor. It will last over a hundred years if properly cared for. Parts are available to this day. These machines can often be bought for $200 and less, in good working condition, on a table, with a clutch motor and spare parts. Finally, the Singer 31-15 is a quiet machine. I have a room full of walking foot machines and when I ran my 31-15, it was almost like zizzzz sound, compared to tapokita tapokita.

Open the motors page and look near the bottom of the blue sidebar. It plainly states $135.00 includes shipping in lower 48 states. The prices of the reducers is in the paragraphs on the right of the photo, where it says: "a new box type which we sell for $200 and a 3 pulley model SR-2, selling for $150." The layout of the page changes when you use a phone instead of a computer monitor.

@pattysoup It is uncool to inject a totally unrelated question into somebody else's ongoing topic. In this case, you entered a discussion about a Landis 3 needle and awl machine with a question about an entirely different type of machine. I have split it into a new topic. Although your brand of machine is mostly unknown to many of us here, the model number suggests that it's a clone of a Juki LS-1341. Upon looking at your photos my first thought is that your needle size is too small for the thread. It is also possible that the machine cannot properly handle the size of thread you are trying to use. Please fill in the blanks of the needle and thread sizes and show a picture of how you have threaded the machine.

Make sure you buy a motor equipped with a 45 to 50mm pulley. The machine pulley is smaller than usual and needs all the help it can get to punch through veg-tan leather. It was designed to sew chrome tan upholstery leather. You may even need to buy a speed reducer. You can learn more on this page.

Yeah. Use a #24/180 needle with #207 thread. It has less trouble pulling up the knots while letting the leather stay down. Also, oil the leather to soften it up before sewing it on that machine. It is an upholstery machine from the 1920s. You may need a stronger pressure spring if you intend to sew hard veg-tan leather with it, using #207 thread.

My post machine doesn't have reverse. I can easily spin the work around to lock in the stitches, or sew all the way around and over them, or lift the feet, pull back and sew over a couple stitches.

That is good advice in most cases, but not this one. Ours is an international forum. The O.P. lives in Germany and probably has no local Cowboy or Cobra dealer. He may be able to find a Hightex dealer though and they are the parent company of Cowboy brand.

You will be buying directly from a manufacturer in China. This makes you the dealer for the purpose of repairs. Pray the machine works properly and doesn't break down and need parts.

This situation is resolved by using a drop-down box style reducer. It replaces the motor under the table, maintaining the original belt angle. The motor bolts to the bottom of the box.

I use this combination: FESM-550S w/ reducer. I have multiple sewing machines and some have under the table drop down box reducers while others have wheel reducers that mount under and to the right of the v-belt slot. If the machine is a flat bed, a box reducer may be best because it mounts in place of the motor. The output pulley is on the same angle as the motor used to be. This allows you to tilt back the head for maintenance. It also maintains the position of the belt so it can be used with a stand alone bobbin winder. By-the-slot wheel reducers are a little trickier to install and change the geometry of the belt feeding the machine. This will interfere with an external bobbin winder and make it difficult to tilt the head back for repairs and oiling the underneath shafts. However, if tilting the head isn't anticipated, the wheel reducers work just fine. I use them on a couple of cylinder arm machines. External bobbin winders can be re positioned to contact the belt. Two of my walking foot machines go direct from the motor to the machine. The FESM motors from my supplier have a 45mm pulley and give decent reduction. However, the Family Sew motors have less torque at slower speed dial settings. So, I don't set them at the slowest number, but move up one or two clicks and feather the foot pedal as needed. One is mounted on an 18" arm Consew 206RB-18 and it works well enough to sew 3/4 inch box patterns on cloth pull straps sewn onto blackout window blinds. If you need high torque without a speed reducer, nothing beats a 1/2 or 3/4 horsepower clutch motor. You can back out the clutch adjuster for more free play and feather the clutch. This requires a steady foot and has a learning curve. But, this is how it was done before servo motors were commonplace. Two of my machines still have clutch motors and work just fine.

Nobody I know uses an EPS on a Cobra Class 4, or Cowboy CB4500. They already have 9:1 speed reduction and are easy to control unless you have RLS.

Are you using NoScript or another ad/script blocker in your browser? If so, turn it off, or disable blocking for our website. I made this mistake yesterday on another forum. I tried wrapping a keyword inside url tags and the action failed repeatedly until I noticed that NoScript was blocking items on that page.

Examine the top tension disks for burrs. Also, make sure they separate enough to let the thread pass freely when you lift the feet all the way up. You may have overtightened the top tension to compensate for the stiffer black thread. If this is the case, back off the top and bottom tensions to center the knots. Change the needle! It may have a burr that is finding the thread. Watch your check spring action as you sew. It should keep the top thread taut until the needle passes into or through the material, then stop moving down.

Nobody can send you private messages through our forum unless you become a member. He or she can't message you because he or she has not become a member of LWN. Guests cannot use our PM or email system.

The seller has stated for local pick up only. No shipping. The sale is COD.

This section of LWN is for people needing assistance with making things. There is a better place to place your WTB ad. It is here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/84-used/ in our Marketplace, under sewing equipment > Used. In order to post there, or anywhere other than Help Wanted, you need to become a member of the forum. There is no charge to join. I would strongly recommend including your location in your public profile. That way you may get people in your own state to reply who may have one of these machines for sale locally. Best of all, you can then use our private message or email system to contact and reply to other members. Know that if you choose to stay here as a guest, all posts you or any responder makes must await a moderator to approve it before it becomes visible. This can take a while as there are only two roaming moderators and I work two jobs. Let us know if you join so one of us can move your post to the Marketplace for you.

Yes. You have a choice of reducers from 2:1 to 3:1. Some attach to the bottom of the table, on the right edge of the belt slot. Others are box shaped and attach where the motor was attached. The motor is then screwed onto the bottom of the reducer box. You can see pictures of both styles here.

According to Bob Kovar, the cb1341 uses an M size bobbin that is like 70% more capacity than the G bobbin in the 227 machines.The machine has stronger tension and pressure springs and can handle #207 thread. This is beyond my 227 that barely makes it with #138. I keep it threaded with #92 instead. Hopefully, people who have a cb1341 will chime in. It is still a new entry to the US Cowboy line and was originally called the cb6900 by the manufacturer.

If you are after a Juki LS-1341, but don't want to spend Juki money, ask Bob about the Cowboy CB1341. He has them, but they aren't on his website yet.The machine is a Juki 1341 clone with leather oriented mods.

Yes, the cb341 will sew up to 3/8 inch with #138 thread. But, that is not strong enough to hold a 3/8 inch holster together if there is a tug of war getting the gun out. To securely sew holsters you will need a machine capable of tensioning #277 thread. That is double the size and strength of #138 and calls for a #25 needle. For this I recommend a cb3200 which can actually sew 1/2 inch with #346 thread. If you go this route you will need a second machine for thinner work. It could be a flat bed or cylinder arm, or even a patcher. There is one other cylinder arm machine I know about that is sort of in the gap between the 341 and 3200 in capabilities. That is the cb1341. There is nothing online about it at this time, but the primary Cowboy dealer told me it can sew with #207 thread, up to 3/8 inch or more. You will have to call the dealer about this, or contact him via his website's contact form. The info is at www.tolindsewmach.com It appears that the Cobra Model 26 and Techsew 4800 have similar specs.

Please contact the company bought it from. They will have the shipping details. We don't know what happened to it. If you bought it from Leather Machine Company, contact them by phone, email, or the website contact form. You should probably have your order date and order number handy.

You are correct. That is not how it works. You actually need several parts to properly use this attachment. They are as follows. Right angle folder (you have that) on a sliding mounting plate that lets you position it up to the feed dog. A special feed dog and throat plate set that clears the nose of the folder. A short, wide inside foot A left toe only outside presser foot. A revolving platter for the large spools of bias tape.

You can buy #69 (aka: T70) bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread all over the place. Load some bobbins with it then thread it along the top. I don't know what needle "system" it uses, but the needle's "size" should be 18/110 for #69 bonded thread. Here is a thread and needle chart/specs sheet to help you match thread and needle sizes (diameters).