Wizcrafts

First, look for industrial sewing machine dealers nearby (meaning driving distance). Ask any who are still in business and answer the phone what makes and models of walking foot machines they stock that can actually sew 10mm and clear at least 12mm with the feet lifted. Next, ask if they can set it up with the proper bias tape folder and supply the spools of bias tape and a table mounting bracket. Your best option will be a dedicated Apex or similar carpet binding machine. Note, that carpet binding for vehicles is different than for room carpets. Those are often sewn by machine that has a motorized puller wheel behind the needle and foot/feet. Smaller carpets for cars and boats can be sewn on regular table mounted walking foot machines. If you don't plan on using the same machine to sew leather, you can opt for a dual feed machine that has teeth on the feet. They provide better feeding of difficult materials. Your dealer should advise you about all the details if they have any experience with carpet sewing machines. Should local sources not pan out, contact Techsew in Montreal. They advertise here and Ron, the primary contact, is extremely knowledgeable. They sell and repair all manner of industrial sewing machines. Make sure that the location flag in the upper right shows the Canadian flag for your geo-location and a proper response in CDN.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Sunstar+KM+640+BL

The reason I said this is because you would have to tilt the machine back on its hinges to get to the bobbin on a standard flatbed table. This would likely bend the work under the foot and probably cause it to move out of position.

Running out of bobbin thread is a normal occurrence for professional sewers. The only way to be certain you won't run out is to load a fresh bobbin before starting a critical job. Otherwise, when you run out, remove the work, load in a new bobbin, then start sewing about 5 stitches before you ran out an just sew over the last stitch. Burn or clip the thread stubs when you're done. Note, there are some machines that let you pull the empty bobbin out with the work in place and load a new one, then resume sewing. You would have to backtack a few stitches though to lock it the previous stitches. I can do that on top loading machines, like Singer 111 builds, 153 clones and 211 walking foot machines. It isn't so easy on a side loader like a Singer 31-15 or Consew 206.

I've moved this post to the Leather Sewing Machines section where it will get better answers.

Yes, the CB4500, or the CB3200 will sew belts and slings all day, every day. Just keep the minimum thickness over 6 or 7 ounces of medium or hard temper materials. I personally keep my sewing on a CB4500 to 8 ounces and up using #138 thread and up. Note that the standard CB4500 or CB3200 setup includes a 3:1 speed reducer for slow precision sewing on leather. This really slows down the machine to the point you may waste valuable time on long runs in webbing. In that case you can buy an extra long belt, debelt and bypass the reducer and go direct from motor to machine.

You have a roller foot machine. If you want to have a walking foot, buy a walking foot machine! You can't just slap on a needle bar attachment and expect it to feed leather. The attachments you are thinking about are actually called even feed feet and are used by quilters. All they do is follow the top layer with a sliding foot.. A real walking foot machine has driven components that pull the work on the top and bottom. The most common type is called compound feed, which is actually triple feed. This system has synchronized movement of the feed dog, needle and an inside alternating/vibrating foot. When the inside foot and needle are down the outside foot moves up, allowing the inside foot and needle to pull the work forward. When the needle ascends, the inside foot lifts and the outside foot drops, holding the work firmly in place.

Yes, deflection is very possible with extra long, #19 needles in a quarter inch of tight webbing. However, if you use #21 or #22 needles, deflection is less likely. Nobody is going to notice the bigger holes in webbing. Just increase the stitch length to offset the larger holes. PS: I would recommend using #138 thread in .2 inches of webbing. Then use a #22 or #23 needle which is the right size for this thread.

What about Cansew? They stock bonded polyester thread in sizes 69 through 207. I used to buy bonded nylon from them and it was top grade thread.

Here is an operator's manual for the Adler 367.

No, you can trust Bob. The system 134 (and DBx1) is equivalent to several other systems. Just make sure that the machine sews properly with those needles. This corresponds to the needle system in the manual.

I spoke to Bob Kovar yesterday about something else and asked him about the CB341 vs the Cobra 26. He said it has the same specs as the Cobra 26 and they are in stock. You could drive there on a good day, with cheap gas, and try it out. Then you'd know if it is any good.

There used to be a dealer named Toronto Industrial Sewing Machines. I lived there for a while and bought many industrial sewing machines, parts and accessories from them. I can't recall ever hearing "we don't have that," or "you can't do that on your motor." Maybe they moved and have a new business name???

Use the needle system shown in your manual. The system defines the upper mounting shank diameter and the length to the eye, and/or the tip. It also can differentiate between round and leather points. Set the needle bar to time those needles. The designation "GB 125" doesn't tell us the needle system, just the business end diameter. A #125 needle is also called Singer size 20. This is used with #92 thread in difficult materials, instead of the usual #19 needle (aka: #120). For instance, I am currently using a #20 needle on a project where I sew with #92 thread through stick-on Velcro that is stuck onto clear 20 gauge vinyl. The sticky goop fouls the eye of the normal size 19 needle causing skipped stitches, while the #20 sails on along.

OMG! It sounds like you live in a Banana Republic. Or, is the dealer out of stock and waiting for a slow boat from China? Did you ask Techsew for a pulley and belt? Those are very common items. The belt is type 3L, which is 3/8 inch across the top. In Metric that is about 10 millimeters. It is the same material as an automobile belt, but narrower. They are heat welded to various lengths. The length is marked on the belt. It may be in Metric (M something), or inches (42, 43, etc). I find I use mostly 40, 41 or 42 inch 3L v-belts on my direct to machine motors. Otherwise, check the yellow pages in Toronto for "industrial sewing machines." Check eBay too.

While the Techsew 5100 is capable of sewing with #69 thread, with a #19 needle, it takes a lot of adjustments to do so efficiently. This machine, like its brothers from Cowboy and Cobra, is really best used with #138 through #415 thread, with #23 through #26 needles. In order to use thin thread to sew thin leather, you'll need to dumb down the machine (article). I wrote the blog post after performing all of the adjustments in it. They work on a Cobra Class 4 and Cowboy CB4500, so they will also work on a Techsew 5100. After dumbing down the machine for thin work, when it is time to sew thick stuff, you'll have to reverse the procedure, to smarten it up. Eventually, if business picks up, you will want to buy one machine for light to medium work and another for thicker work with heavy thread. Please note that there are no leather point needles for these machines below number 23. There are no more #18 needles in the common marketplace either. It appears that now the smallest System 7x3/794 needle is a #19, which is actually for #92 bonded thread.

Oops! Sorry 'bout that, Chief! You can hopefully get a similar machine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It is called the CB341. They also have a new to them CB1341 (Juki 1341 clone) that may be a step up. Our member, @CowboyBobis the owner.

E = mc2 (just kidding) You should use calipers to measure the OD of the motor shaft. Then order a 45 or 50mm pulley that fits it. If in doubt, contact a dealer who sells Consew servo motors. They may have the smaller pulley in stock. They can also determine the new belt length. I generally find that when changing from a 3" to a 2" pulley, the belt needs to be about 2 inches shorter. How much depends on where the motor is sitting on the height adjustment bolt.

There is such a thing as sh_tty thread. Have you tried using a different spool or batch or thread? As for adjustments, try altering the settings on your check spring mechanism. Since you haven't yet identified the machine in the photo, I can't be more specific. Most check spring assemblies have the following three adjustments. Amount of downward travel. This movable curved bracket is usually set to keep the thread taut until the point of the needle passes into the material. Once the spring stops moving down there will be slack in the thread. Strength of the moving spring. This is based upon the strength of the thread. It must have enough force to go all the way down to the bottom stop bracket, wherever it is set. Position of the screw inside a curved slot which controls the slack in the available top thread on the down stroke. This setting is affected by the distance the spring can travel downwards after lifting on the take-up stroke. Moving the slot one way increases the slack and vice versa.

It looks like your motor pulley is at least 70mm diameter. I would purchase a 50mm pulley and a shorter belt to match. Dealers that sell Consew and Family Sew motors should have these items in stock.

The O.P. is located in Nieppe, North, France and French is their native language. Here is a translation of the question: "I got a Durkopp 18-1. I don't know how to thread the shuttle (bobbin) and how to position it correctly?"

You can buy a Model 26 from Springfield Leather. They have them in stock.

I've never heard of a Consew 201RB. That doesn't mean much. But, are you certain about the model number? Did you mean 206RB-(number)?

I have tried and tried, but the thickest thread my 1920s 31-15 can handle is #69, using a #18 needle. My hook is pinned to the shaft and can't even be timed to the needle, aside from bending the shuttle driver tabs, or moving the needle bar. Considering what I bought it to sew (trouser cuffs and wallet interiors), that is just fine. I have plenty of other machines that can use #138 thread and up.