dirtclod

I did one 15 / 16 years ago no pictures though. For the life of me i can't remember what i did for the flower part. It turned out OK the lady liked it but it wasn't something i was real proud of. I did find these line drawings that might give you some ideals. https://www.google.com/search?q=thistle+line+drawing&hl=en&newwindow=1&client=firefox-a&hs=7lc&tbo=u&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=np&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=j0fbUJacH5DQ9ATK0IDoBw&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=880&bih=405

Thank you for taking the time to make the movie !!! Nice shop to.

Not sure what the first picture is used for. The second picture looks like knives used to trim soles on a shoe finisher. The rest look like a machine used to trim soles and put a design on the welt.

I've never tried the mop and glow. Eighteen inches away seems pretty far to me. Where you using a airbrush or a spray bottle? If your using a spray bottle i always pump it a couple of times before i put any water on something i'm going to stamp because it seems to take a couple of pumps to get the pipe inside full. If i don't do that i get the big spots your talking about. I use a sponge to put my finish on.

Hope this works You can see where the bent part rides on the roller lift part under your machine. When you push the knee lift it will raise the foot

I use 160, 200 and 230 sizes. Most of the time i use a 200 and run 277 on top and 207 on the bottom for thread.

Borrow another kid the about the same size and make you a pattern. Rough out a pattern and see how it fits the kid you borrow and go from there. You already know what they should look like. Several years ago i had a customer bring a pattern for bat wings he made for his daughter out of news paper. I took that and transfured it to poster board and cut them out and they fit perfect.

For the bags i would get the motorcycle you want them to fit and make a pattern for that bike. IMO their not a one size fits all / most. The tool bags you can get away with on one size fits all / most.

Because the tractor tires are filled with fluid for weight and traction. It's like the joke i heard. Two guys were trying to lead their mule into the barn, but his ears would touch the top of the door and he would back out. The two guys got togeather and decided to raise the barn up a few inches. A neighbor came by and asked what they were doing the two guys told the neighbor about the mules ears touching. After hearing why, the neighbor said why not dig a small trench and lead the mule in. The two guys laughed and told their neighbor how dumb he was, saying it's his ears that are to long not his legs. Same moral.

The ones i made had a piece of 1/4 inch neoprene for the padding and then covered with a piece of 3 / 4 ounce of what ever looked good. IMO the trouble with sheepskin by it's self is that it gets matted down with time and gets full of all kinds of begger lice, small sticks and junk and it's a PITA to try to get them out.

Looks good, not sure what it's though. One suggestion i would make is not to punch so many holes in you buckle strap. Measure back back two or three inches from the end and punch your holes.

Not sure why you would say that. I checked using your link a couple of hours ago and everything thing i clicked worked fine and i just checked again after reading WinterBears post.

Loosen the top tension to where their is almost no tension and try it, if you need more tension tighten a little as needed when you try sewing on some scrap.

Thanks for a good laugh. I think !!

I talked to a guy that has one and he said he really liked it.

I would wait till you have the table put togeather with the top on and the motor set so you can see where holes need to be drilled and slot cut. If you start cutting and drilling before you have ever thing you will probley have something in the wrong place.

I'd two to one rather have the foot petal over a knee lift !!!

You can try pulling enough off for your job and pull it through some paper held tight in your hand. It might get enough wax off and slick it up to where it'll work. May or may not work, if it does it's going to be a PITA to do that ever time you want to sew with that thread.

Nice work on the hoods !!

I have had and have that problem once in a while. What i think happens is either leather has some rawhide in it making it sticky or your glue wasn't dry. I notice it more on 12 / 14 ounce hides than any other time.

Cut them straight. Order you a side of leather and tell them that it needs to be at least 7 foot, most will be longer.

Insulate your work space with as much as will fit. I have 3 1/2 in the walls and 10 inches in the celeing. I heat with a kersine heater and my shop is 24 x 36. It get up to around 50 degrees on a real cold day. Or you can get some Aritics the black lined ones from Carhart, bibs is what i have and you will stay warm. Change your socks pretty regular and wear over shoes your feet will stay warm to. Your feet sweat a lot more than you think even it's really cold.

I mark all of my stuff. But it's a smaller stamp. Right now i put it the front down at the bottom of the handle, most of what i make are adult toys. But i have seen several makers of holsters ruin their work by getting the biggest stamp made i'm talking about stamps that are 2 plus inches across and just about that tall then they stamp a design around that right in the center on the front of a holster. To me it makes the work look cheap and gaudey enough i wouldn't buy it. Saying all of that i like makers stamps on stuff i buy if it's a handmade piece. JMO

I use the left toe foot on 99% of everything i make. Never noticed it messing any of the basket weave up or anything else. I eyeball my where i mark for a stitch line but it's around a 1/4 inch.

Put some lexol, neetfoot oil or something like that on the leather after you dye it. The dye drys things out.