dirtclod

Call the sewing machine folks at the top of the page i'm sure all would be happy to talk about a machine that would fit your needs. I'd stay away from the one you found in Hong Kong because i doubt you would have any dealer support.

If you use the table top belt sander you need to flip the belt part over. They run the wrong way ( away for you ) You want to run towards you. Theirs a nut / allen screw that needs to be loosened up and you can flip the belt over.

I'm guessing it's a chrome tanned leather ( all of the oiled tanned that i ever have had was ) chrome tanned leather won't burnish or i never have been able to anyway and it doesn't glue very well either..

What you want to look for is a needle for a needle and awl machine. If you look in the Union Lock Stitch machine needles you should find in Weavers catalog.

You did a really nice job on the cup !!

Nice job !!!

Nice job. You need to try and get a pair of those scissors cause their really handy to have.

All of the ones i have seen and worked on had 5/6 ounce leather or maybe 6/7 ounce.

The few times i tried to do anything to a dryed out vintage purse something else tore up while i was trying to fix the first thing. My suggestion would be to leave them alone and sell as is.

Here ya go http://www.amtan.com/contract_tanning.htm or you can search how to tan a alligator hide and get several things if you want to try it your self.

Why don't ya put one you have made on the guy and then you can much bigger it needs to be.

Do you have the needle facing the right way ? Groove on the left.

For your edges you need a edger. I would get a number 2 and 3. You will need to burnish the edges for it to look right. You do that after you edge. Tob urnish you use a wet sponge and piece of cardboard off of a cereal box or something like that. You just want to wet the edge and rub it pretty hard and fast and you will have a smooth polished edge. Dyeing i generally use a wool dobber or a piece of sheep skin with the wool trimed pretty close. The folks at Tandy should show you about sewing it's not hard and i would pick up a copy of the book hand sewing.

Go on ebay and get a leather gauge from black river laser. They don't cost much and you can see what weights you have. As far as weight to use. I use 8/9 to 10/12 for western type holsters. For the molded ones i think they use anything from 4 ounce to 7 ounce not real sure about that though. I don't know anything about the book you asked about.

I use one Tandy's edgers to go around 3/8 to 1/2 holes and it works fine for me. The better edgers i have won't fit so i use the Tandy one. I think you need to pratice on some scrap because you be able to edge that no problem.

Put your bobbin a dowel or bolt and use a cordless drill to wind it.

I guess i'm just kinda slow. After looking at the website i still have a question. Does it cost anything to get in and where is it being held at ?

Thank you for explaining that for me.

So is it good to have some dots or bad not to have any dots ? I'm really mixed up now.

Have somebody there to help you get the head on the stand. Their heavy.

I'm not a sewing machine mechanic by any means just tinker with machines when they get out of whack. It takes a small thin bladed screwdriver for the bobbin screw. I don't have a Juki like yours but i do have a two small machines one of them i don't have hardly and tension on top and the other has more but not much. I did a Google search for machine tension and came up with this it might help. https://www.google.com/search?q=sewing+machine+tension&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a Maybe somebody that knows more than me can help ya out.

First i would check and make sure it's threaded right and that the needle is in right maybe even put a new needle in. If ever thing is right Then I would try backing the top tension all the way off and tighten the bobbin tension a little. Then adjust the top tension.

When i make a cross draw holster for a customer. I make the holster pattern with some left to fold over and then i tape a bigger piece to that part and fold it at a pretty extreme angle to get the angle where they want it. Sometimes i have had to tape another piece to the piece i started with to get the angle right. It's just trial and error.

I'd try Springfield Leather or Waterhouse Leather. One other thing make two patterns for you chaps and write right and left leg on the patterns and lay both of them on your side before you cut to make sure you have enough room.

I order from W&C quite a bit and never have had any trouble getting my order. I would call and ask about your order.