dirtclod

You don't want that to stitch with. If your going to hand sew you need to use a awl and two needles. The Al Stohlman hand sewingwil show you how to do that if you don't have one Springfield, Tandy or Zack White has them. You bet it does cost a lot to start. I've been buying tools for 30 plus years and still am. Remember nobody starts with everthing unless they were left the tools.

Put some 1/4 neoprene in for the padding. Personally i wouldn't stitch a pattern back in the seat all the holes from stitching is just place for water and dirt to go plus their a PITA to get things lined up and looking right. But if you stitch the seat it's a free hand design you draw on some paper then run a stitch wheel over your lines, lay the pattern on the seat and tap a sock with baby power in it to mark lines to stitch by on the seat.

Your link doesn't work.

At least one side of leather 150.00 to 200.00. Bag punches 3/4 and 7/8 45.00 to 60.00 each. End punches round or english 1/2 in. 5/8 in. 3/4 in. 40.00 to 60.00 each. Draw gauge 25.00 to 100.00. Edgers #2 #3 20.00 to 90.00 each. Hardware 100.00 to 300.00 for buckles, rings and D rings. Lining leather if you line them 50.00 to 120.00 for one side. Maul 50.00 to 100.00. Hand sewing thread 20.00 to 50.00 a spool. Bees wax. Awl haft and blade 20.00 to 100.00. Stitch wheel 10.00 to 30.00. Needles 5.00 a pack of 10. And probley some stuff i have forgot. Oh if you get a sewing machine 1500.00 to 3000.00. thread for the machine 30.00 a spool. And a winning lottery ticket if you buy it all at one time. :-))

I think you find trying to stamp it after it's glued doesn't work very well. Try it on some scrap first.

Looks like a under bust corset to me.

I don't if this will help you or not. The way i do my edges is i sand them then wet lightly, burnish with a piece of deer horn and do a final burnish with a piece of cardboard from a cold drink, beer or cracker box. If i have a piece that doesn't want to burnish i i rub a little past saddle soap on and burnish again, most of the time that fixes things.

Try some different thread and see what happens. I have had some thread that i just couldn't use. It skipped stitches and frayed really bad, one night i got so agverated after picking stitches out for the third or forth time i just cut the piece up and threw it away. The next day i put some thread on that never had been a problem and the problem was solved.

100% neetsfoot oil needs to be warmed espically when it's cold. After it's warmed it will be fine.

Could be that your rivet is to long for the thickness your riveting and their bending when you set the burr. If that's the case start the burr then cut some of the rivet off and set like normal

The stamps will work on leather but their a PITA to keep lined up as in straight.

If you starting at a buckle, set your foot down 3 or 4 stitches length away stitch in reverse the 3 or 4 stitches and come forward. When you get to the other end sew up as close as you can to the buckle and then reverse 3 or 4 stitches and your done.

Black harness leather.

I'm not sure why it's only newbies that buy black saddles and tack. Maybe they have watched to many reruns of the Lone Ranger. It may be different in other parts of the country but that's the way it is around here.

When i was doing a lot tack the only time i ever sold anything that was black that includes saddles, saddle bags, headstalls and reins was to a person that had just bought their first horse. I wouldn't trade for a black saddle if i could keep from it because they were so hard to sell. I would say dye what you need and you have the rest of the side for regular orders.

You really need to tighten your lacing up on the purse. The way it is on the bottom it looks like things will fall out. Looks like you missed a couple of place on the edge of flap when you dyed it. I'm sure she will be happy with it.

It's house machine not a leather sewing machine.

I use 50 or 60 grit first to get ever thing even quick and use 150 or 180 to finish with, then burnish. I'm sure your going to get a bunch of different answers.

I got a email with some pictures and told her what i was intrested in and heard anything else. That was a couple weeks ago.

I'm not much on metric does 10 mm = 1 cm ? If it dose that's some big thread more like small rope ! After going back and rereading everthing again i saw i missed the .09 mm. Though for sure it was 9mm.

Ask the companies for a sample of pull up chrome tan. I'm pretty sure that's what your looking for.

The rivets they have used in the pictures are chrome plated splash rivets in two pictures and they will rust and rot the leather out. You will need to leave the tail on the fold longer to sew it. I can double stitch a half inch wide piece no problem. You sew up to the rings to or pretty durn close. As far as somebody asking 500.00 for a set that means nothing. Some of it might be worth 500.00 but i see a lot of stuff that people put a big price on that is worth nothing. Price doesn't equal quality all the time. I know a lot of people won't agree with me but a bunch of rivets cheapen the look of your work. JMHO

Sew them on or that's the way i have always done it. You just bought a machine didn't you ?The stitching will hold more than the rivets espically the double cap ones and look a lot better to. When i see rivets in most things i think cheap imports.

Why do you want rivets in your tack ?

If you put the oil on and don't over do it i don't see any problems at all. Now if really soak the hide that's another story because it will bleed onto / into something else. There is a picture on here of a rifle scabbord on that, that has happened to. The body was light oiled and the straps were soaked and it bleed / soaked into the light oil making dark spots. The oil tanned chap leather is fine for chaps and other things but you will have a hard time getting glue to stick to it. Or i always did when making chaps.