JLSleather

I like 6 stitches / inch most of the time. On tooled belts, I may aim for more like 5/inch but it matters if it's part of a set. If I'm making the holster 6/in, then the belt would be also. I've used a holster plate, but only occasionally. Certainly can help in spots where the project isn't flat, or if you are sewing down a piece with a metal clip, etc. Using the holster plate WILL require you to reset the stitch length and MAY require a change in tension. Thread is most often 277. Smaller projects might get 207 (pocket holsters, small bags / large wallets, etc.) 277 thread I use a #24 needle (some others prefer a #25) and 207 uses a #23 needle. I like the LR point needles. Scraps are good for setting the machine. Set teh machine with leather from the SAME hide as the project you're working on whenever possible. Different pieces of leather act differently, and I don't want to put hours in a project only to "hope" the stitch looks good. I have used the little goofy edge roller guide, but a drop-down guide would be far better. Since everyone here is considerably smarter 'n' me, I'm sure I'm the only one made these mistakes, but I have forgotten that I changed the stitch length for a project and started sewing without putting it back where it should have been for the current project. moved the reverse lever without looking, and not put it all the way up or all the way down (not good); changed the stitch length cuz I wanted a longer stitch, and by not paying attention i shortened the stitch. Again, I'm sure I'm the only one That should get you started. For more technical info, I think it's reasonable that a new machine dealer can handle that themselves (you paid for it).

Alrightey, then. That fella has done mosied on up the road

Not much reason to add to that If I had 50 open orders ONE time, I'd keep customers "in the loop" and get over it. If I had 50 open orders ALL the time, I may need to hire at least one...

Tha's lookin purdy. Is the blue gun the 4" (intended to stick through) or longer (like the 4" will be covered)?

Sweet.. a guy who recognizes his weak point and DOES something about it (bitchin' don't count). Best bet is ask the fella who did the work, but I woulda went with CUT lines. I know you can buy "double" swivel knives that would cut both lines at the same time, or some people cut ONE and crease the OTHER (look up beader). Long as I'm here .. the basket weave is a bit much for me, but the stitchin' on BOTH those looks great.

Did you search on here? Seems I remember that youngster from South Dakota did something like that a while back (and did it fairly WELL).

On the lighter side, I don't mind sayin' what I don't like the idear of 'appendix carry'. Somethin' bout a gun pointed at my 'pendix' that i just kaint git useta

I just tell them when their order will be shipped. A few times, I've slipped behind a bit. Nobody had a problem with that as long as you contact them to let them know it will be a bit later. But I wouldn't wait until they contact me to tell them I'm not "on schedule". But then I wouldn't wait 10 weeks for a plain belt, either. Using drum-dyed leather and a sewing machine, I can't imagine a belt takes more than a couple of days to make.

Lemme look through the mess in the basement, might be able to find something like what you need. If you're in a hurry, Springfield does sell blanks at 72" (or used to), but they's pricey. How you making that belt? Not sure I understood, so here's ONE way, for what it's worth... I take the waist size (in your case 47) and subtract the buckle being used. This is the measurement from the center hole to the fold line. 3 1/2" over teh fold -- this lets me use three fasteners (either snaps or screws), at 7/8", 2", and 3 1/8" from the fold. Then add 6" for the tail (billet) end. So if you had a buckle 1" long, then you would need leather 46" fold to center hole, plus 6' billet (52), plus 3.5" over the fold (55.5"). Then ask yourself what you're making it out of. If teh finished belt will be about 12 oz leather, add 1" in teh measurement (making it 47" fold to center hole and 56.5" over all). Long story, but that works I prolly have both the 9 oz and some 3/4 to line with. The work you're posting has been great --- hate to see you 'splice' a liner... just not a great look.

HEY! That sucker's backurds ..! Looking good as usual.

Got a fella wrote about a pancake holster for a Charter Arms Bulldog 3" .44 revolver. The one he commented on was right handed and black with black stitching, so very likely that's what he wants. Guy is in Houston, so folks in TX given preference but not required. I'd like to recommend someone to get this done for him -- so let me know if you're making these and I'll put the two of you in touch so you can work out your own details and pricing.

I think that's 3 of us saying the same thing a different way (I think Dwight was meaning the same thing here). It's the same amount of leather, inside to outside, but the 'air space' with the "flat back" (mine are about 80/20 with a curve, not true "flat") is on the outside. Which is a rather long way of saying that the "back and loops ride tighter"

Done all sorts o ways. Some 'rough cut' the front piece wider and trim after forming. Others refine their pattern so they mold like that but no trimming required later. One advantage is that the holster need not be as wide - the slots can be closer to the weapon.

Oh, sometimes I guess I just assume people know what i mean I don't SPLIT them, like make the whole piece thinner. I was just talking about skiving the EDGES (not the top) down to about half thickness. Then I edge (with an edger) and burnish before stitcher down. Pulls the edges RIGHT ON IN. Big improvement in the finished look, I think (and with exotic leather stiffeners, it's even more drastic improvement). And with a revolver holster, ya git that "wrap around" look -- so if teh lead edge of the stiffener is skived down, it basically disappears from view (without giving up any strength). Now, when I say skived here, I'm just talking about a tad past the stitch line. ..

Masonite, or Plexiglass. That "stiffener" from Tandy is nothing more than firm paper -- useless.

WOW>. the DESIGN is AMAZING The guy did the layout is SMOOTH Contacted me? More like CORRECTED me But really ... looks good -- keep 'em coming! HEY .. long as we got ya on the line, and you went to the trouble to lay out that 'stiffener'... show us a pic more from the front. Wondering how close you ran the panel to the front stitch line, and did ya skive the panel leather 'afore stitchiner down?

I agree with the comfort of a (mostly) flat back holster. A bit more time to make, perhaps, but not much. TOO many of the pancakes I see molded "in the middle" or "50/50" have slots too close to the weapon (like an extra 1" of belt space would kill)) which can cause binding of the weapon on a pancake. With a flat (or near flat) back, this is eliminated. Darn.. did I just let out another tip for free?@@! I have GOT to quit that ...

Art, he wants to use 207 thread... is he good to go on the 18 / 0618?

Stumbled across this picture on the web somewhere.. guy claiming that one is thicker than the other and thus his was "better". In under a minute, let me show you why it doesn't matter Here's the picture. Somebody was claiming that the one on the right was somehow "thinner" and thus "more concealable" (and it's debated on a number of gun forums). BUT ... In both 'versions', the gun is the same thickness. And there are two layers of leather, one front and one back. And that's it. The gun thickness plus two layers of leather, is the same either way. While they can be made to RIDE differently, just changing which piece gets the molding will obviously NOT change the thickness of the holster. When worn, there could be a little air space between teh wearer and the holster, especially close to the firearm. But the holster where the gun is will be against the hip (in both cases) and the thickness is the same, so they protrude the same amount. So what's the point? Molding in the front panel, or molding both panels to the middle, SAME thickness.

Hey! That does NOT seriously "suck"! I'm jus playin'... looks great as usual!

This one? https://www.etsy.com/listing/220575650/smith-wesson-mp-425-inch-gun-holster

I cut the shoulder section off of sides for belt leather, about 60" from the butt end. This will give you belts about size 50, and then I use the shoulder (which is one piece) for cutting holsters (mostly). This way the belt and the holster (or knife sheath, or whatever) will match in color AND texture. On the odd chance that someone needs a belt larger than a "50", I'd just start another hide. It's only happened twice in about 100 years (ish). Oh, maybe I should add that I cut the belly off as well.. useless for belts, except perhaps to line them. I generally order backs, which is sides with the belly already cut off, but since you said sides, I would cut off the belly.

You didn't mention the size thread you wanted to use. BUT, I will say that I have never found the support from steve (or anyone else out there) to be priceless. Or even useful. I have never seen the model 18, and the one guy I knew who had one didn't particularly like it. Art (above) seems happy with his, so that's one vote "for" and one "nay" BUT.. the thing here is.. if your machine leaves (pressure) marks in light weight leather, then you would expect it to be WORSE in thicker leather. I mean, the spring would be compressed MORE the thicker the leather. Fact is, that machine you have SHOULD be able to sew the thickness you describe 8 oz to 12 oz English bridle).

If you haven't seen it already, check out this other thread. Alex's use of contrasting colors clearly shows why this is done the way it is, and makes a durn right purdy rig in the process

HEY tha's lookin purdy good! I'm not a big fan of basket weave, but I like what you've done there. GREAT - also - to see a guy come up with something that works and SHARE it... not enough of that goes on these days. I've also used non-stick frisket (available in the art section of craft stores or airbrush supplies) and for those I use a LOT, Plexiglas (you can see the leather under it - and avoid 'bad' spots). Definitely ask your friend what he did differently -- those files should print fine if you have the printer set to "actual size" or "100%" or something like that. Make sure your printer options don't say "scale to fit" or some such. When I do these, I mark the ENDS of the stitch lines and the tuns, then just use a stylus to draw in the straight parts. And I don't "join" the stitch lines by the inside of the slots.. the holster is much stronger without it. Stitching all the way across causes a stress point much like scoring a something to snap it. Pic shows what I mean... OH YEAH.. you'll likely find some people going on about a double row of stitching. While this gives another "look" to the finished product, it's not a good plan. MORE HOLES IN THE LEATHER = LESS STRENGTH IN THE LEATHER. Simple With a second row of stitching, the inside (gun side) stitch line STILL takes the brunt of the stress, and the second stitch line just makes holes ...