JLSleather

The buckle CAN'T be removed from the equation... it's part of the size. The REVERSE of what you said is true -- the buckle needs to be considered if it's NOT the same. I sometimes have people who want a belt made for a buckle they already have. If it's a buckle from a belt Dad wore (for example) and not one they have been wearing, then I ask they send me the buckle so I can properly fit the width AND the length. If on the other hand, they want to use a buckle from their own (worn) belt, then they can just let me know the LENGTH OF THE LEATHER FROM THE FOLD TO THE HOLE THEY USE. The buckle is not an issue here, because on this belt or on that one it's still the SAME buckle - no change in length. ONE MORE illustration.... I have made about a bazillion belts for young people- including my own kids. But the little ones outgrow things so fast, it almost isn't wise to spend a LOT of money on a pricey belt that won't fit them in a few months. Still, people like to get something nice for the kids, so I have often advised to make a belt to fit them with a "short" (lengthwise) buckle. When they grow 1", don't scrap the belt --- just replace the buckle with one an inch longer, and VIOLA>.. a belt that fits again (even though the leather still measures the same to the fold). In this case, I usually recommend putting initials (if used) on the tip of the belt. Names or initials in the middle of the belt will move ONE HALF THE CHANGE in waist size. So if a little guy's name is perfectly centered, then when he grows 1", his name will now be 1/2" off center. For a guy with a 36" waist or bigger, 1/2" might not matter much. But on the smaller ones, it's obvious.

The buckle needs to be included. Here's why it matters - the three belts are all the same length of leather, but different sizes due to the buckle. ...

Yep, Robert (mecopocketholsters.com) made holsters for YEARS before using a pattern to make one!

That's the advantage of NOT using patterns --- you fit the mold, not the pattern. Other side of the coin, the advantage of using the pattern, when somebody else sees it and wants one like it, no problem.

Glad I could help. One other thing maybe about leather thickness. Most holsters - and all of mine - are marked and laid out on the GRAIN side of the leather. Due to that fact, the thickness matters. I'll put the "long version" on the site before long, but for now.. the idea: Measurements are made in a linear, straight line fashion, and then the leather is wrapped around some type of form. Ideally, the inside of the holster and the outside of the gun would be theoretically identical. So if you measured the INSIDE of the holster, then leather thickness wouldn't matter. Thicker leather would simply result in a thicker holster, and both would still fit the same firearm. But measuring the outside of the holster, this outside is then "fixed", and the thicker the leather, the narrower the inside will be (and TIGHTER). To illustrate, think about a holster that fits your gun well. Now, take a 2 or 2.5 oz leather and line the inside of the holster, and try putting your gun in there again (good luck). One more example? Think PVC pipe.. we've all seen that, right? I don't know 'schedule whatever" when it comes to this, but all pipe is not made with the same wall thickness. End result, if you just get 3" pipe, without considering the wall thickness, it may or may not hold the amount of water you were hoping. 1/8" thicker wall means a pipe which is 1/4" less diameter, and a "straight line" measurement (circumference, for you fancy folks) 3/4" LESS.... SO THEN, why not just give people the inner measurement and let them decide on leather thickness? Because this is the "standard" so many folks around here are accustomed to... ever since Al and Ann's book "How to Make Holsters" (somewhere iin the 50's). That book and it's principles - which include marking the grain side - are still widely used and recommended. Now, since a LOT of the guns around today were not around back then, perhaps we could change the way that's done, but it hasn't happened yet.

Anybody ever get a message about password protection on these patterns? I got an email today, guy said "I tried to open your PDF for the pancake holster and the PDF wants a password". There IS no password, except if you were maybe using Acrobat Pro and wanted to ALTER the file, but shouldn't be a password to open and use them.

Well, I need to write up new "directions" for this pancake style holster for the Glock G43. It's kind of an 80/20 holster, seams not in the middle as they say. But its' nothing so 'fancy' you can't figure it out. Got a mold? Care to make this one? I'll trade ya fer a pic of the finished holster Off for tonight, but send me a message if you think this is something you want to see.

That Colt Commander avenger style pattern is one of my least 'favorite' ones. Ever look at something a year or two later, and wonder "WHAT was I thinking when I did that????" Me neither Still, it does fit, so I left it up until I got a chance to re-work and replace it. Then, it's likely me who should feel bad about taking money for that... so you should at LEAST 'demand' a free replacement pattern. Now that I think about it, that Ruger Sr9c could be a little purdier, too ...

That 1911 5" pattern on my site will fit the Colt AND the RIA (and a few others). From the pic you post of the Sig, I do NOT think that would work there. In fact, that Sig looks like a classic case of where to use a stitched site channel (them corners is UP THERE).

Alrightey then.. 1911 3" pancake pattern uploaded (click "FREE" below).

ON a couple of ocassions, I have been known to poke the holes with the machine, then "chase" the holes with an awl while I hand sew it. I agree.. it's just a holster -- not like sewing the entire belt that way. Much as I like "matching", I would not like a holster stitched with less than 207, nor would I offer one for sale. I usually use 277, but I could "live with" 207.

Which ya think is more popular, and you'd prefer to have on ya --- 1911 3", or the Glock 43? I mean, if you had somebody was fixina give ya one, as in free, which way do ya go?

Does this skirt make my holster look big? Okay, I hadda do that. I think you could trim it, or maybe just taper the bottom end... Probably fine if you lined it, but a single layer hanging out there could get "floppy". The holster turned back through the skirt like you have would help with that a bit.

If by "wheel guns" you mean revolvers, then molds are available for some of them (which could also be said for semi-autos). Maybe should put a page on my site with a list of where molds are available. Small men who fear competition don't like to share information which is actually USEful to someone - or you'd probably see something l like that here by now. As for patterns, they're really not that difficult to make. Oh, for starters, check duncansoutdoor.com bunkhousetools.com http://www.alternateforce.net/bluegunrevolvers.html

If you're driving 80 miles, there's certainly no reason not to stop at a bar

Closer to South Dakota than Mo, but we got a couple hills up this way. Not the Black Hills, but hills ....

Sweet... glad you can use it. Charlie showed up and got enuugh to keep him busy a good while. Forgot I still had package 1, so it's still here and packaged for you other folks

Prolly should get doing SOME work today, .. just poppin' in ta say that "my wider American brothers" is hilarious, and your holster ABSOLUTELY belongs in "show off".

I'm no sewing guru, so if one or more of the 'sewing guys' pops in, pay no attention to me and do what THEY say Generally, the "blow out" can be caused by a number of things. You have the right needle point, and #23 with #207 should be fine, so that shouldn't be a factor. But you can get that from a needle which is overly dull, or a feed dog or plate under the leather with a hole which is too large (allowing the leather to "flow" into the hole before piercing), or even speed can affect it. If I have any issues, the needle is the first thing I check... since it's the quickest and easiest thing to eliminate. But machine stitching is just not going to look the same on the top and bottom.

So, obviously, either of these weakens the assembly. In the end, I usually stitch these like shown. Not that it matters, I just find it quick and smooth to go this way WHEN POSSIBLE. Start at the blue dot, and backstitch a few stitches to the joint in the stitch lines (blue arrow). Then change direction, and follow the red arrows back around to the joint, turn and go up along the slot, and backstitch (blue). On the right side (leading edge of holster) same thing, but I start up along the slot, backstitch (blue) and go around (red), backstitch on outside (blue). One MORE advantage of doing it this way, FYI.... the holes with the double stitching will end up under the belt

Well, I can just say why I do it... and someone else's reasoning may be a bit different or not. Largely it's about strength and structure. As a rule, best to use as few and as small holes as reason allows. So first thing, continuing the stitching up to the "main" line doesn't gain anything at all -- you're just putting holes in for nothing (other than some might like the look of the continuous line). And, any time you put a row of stitching across something you weaken it along that line. This is not reserved for leather people and should be obvious to about everyone. Examples? Take a piece of kydex... lay in flat on the table, hanging over the table. Push down on the sides to break it over the edge of the table. Just wants to flex, right? Now, take your utility knife and score the top. Now try to flex that same piece and it snaps... right down that line.. Plywood or lumber the same way. When your fishing line breaks, vast majority of the time it breaks AT THE KNOT (and when it doesn't, usually becomes clear there was some other defect in the line). Even steel shafts are made with a groove cut in them, so in the even that it breaks, it breaks AT the groove. I could go on .... but since it weakens the finished product and adds nothing, no point. Oh, and don't forget it's already weaker in that area because of the slot itself. Same is true at the "bottom" end where it DOES join the outside stitch line. The line is angled into the stitch line so that it's not a continuous line with the outside stitch OR the row inside the slots. It 'breaks' this straight-line problem. When I draw these, I aim at having the line join the outside stitch line at a right angle, or close to that. On boriqua's rig, that looks a LOT like one of my designs, but he has altered the front to allow the slots to be parallel (nice touch by the way) and here's the good part... he moved the stitch line "joint" accordingly (sue weet). And last AND this is the least important reason for the 'style'.... it's quick. Everybody will find their own way of doing it. And we've probably all seen some things done we liked, and some we didn't, and adapted our own style frm those things. So, here's a pic thingie with maybe some of what I think ...

Yeah? How cool is that?! Congrats ... !

Oh, yeah... and also the very quick and easy POCKET holster for the Glock G42 .. don't forget that one

That is a burnishing NITEMAIR ... bad enough to seriously booger up a guy's spelling Still, "just enough" pink in there... looks GOOD.