JLSleather

Welcome - glad somebody kin use 'em

I don't know just when that happened, but somewhere along the line "customer service" -- which USEDTA be getting you what you paid for at the price you paid for -- somehow became "we'll send you something, and if it's not right I'll sure be available to 'make it right' for ya, though you may have to call us repeatedly and spend a month without what you actually should have received the first time." NOTE: I've never dealt with the people mentioned at the start of this topic... and I'm referring to half a dozen OTHER vendors.

I'm glad I got a 'heads up' about this before I went and bought one! Thanks for letting us know.

Or if you know a guy with a tommy gate, maybe get him to back up to the truck and slide it into the pickup

Is there any interest in being able to buy these pre-cut? I was thinking about having some dies made, and offering die cut pieces for these (and similar) patterns for the DIY guy. Maybe I could throw in the pattern for free. Wait.. I already did that part! Going to stock a number of different 'thingies' pre-cut for those who don't want to "buy the cow" (as they say), or those who don't want to buy multiple sides just to get a little of different weights. http://www.etsy.com/shop/JLSLeatherSupply

How much difference between the .40 and teh .45 ?

I never buy sides... the ONLY exception is if there was a sale ONLY on full sides (not backs), which there never is I like Hermann Oak leather. Do the math? side 25 feet.@ $8.03 = $200.75 back 18 feet @ $9.48 = $170.64 So, if I buy whole sides, then I'm paying about $30 for belly leather I'm not going to use. I'd be pitching out $30 per side. ANd that's on top of the waste you'd have already.

Gitcherself a couple pieces o scrap same thickness. You can back that off a bit (lefty loosey). Test on the scrap. Idea is to have enough pressure to hold the leather down so the needle can back out of the leather - and no more. If you backed it off too far, you'll start seeing skipped stitches, so just tighten slightly from there. It's simple enough.. thinner or thicker leather may need adjusting a bit.. that's what it's for.

Just a quick "bump" on these patterns. I just saw some low-rent varmint is actually CHARGING MONEY for something so similar to these little wallets it might as well BE these (except these are free).

Both the skirting and the eng bridle are pretty nice over at http://www.wickett-craig.com/preview.html

Alrightey, then.. I'm a utility knife guy myself. Long straight cuts, you can't beat a utility knife. I have aluminum "rulers" for cutting straight edges. Got mine at a building supply store (Menards', Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.). 6 foot one (longest they had at the time) plus a 24" x 16" aluminum 'rafter' square. For smaller projects, I use transparent plastic triangles, much like the kids would use for shool work (I know some folks will whine about this, but since most of 'em kaint whoop me, I don't care ) For dyeing, pick up some of that brown packaging paper at teh craft store (like maybe when you're getting teh plastic triangles). It's insanely cheap, and long as you aren't POURING dye on it, it will protect your table from dye and finish. When it gets dirty, simply replace it with some new. I get fairly large rolls at the hobby store for like $5 (does a LOT of projects and takes up very little space). Know what makes an AWESOME stitching pony? One of those pivoting-jaw welding clamps. Under $10 (harbor freight, for one) and very versatile. If you need a longer jaw for wider projects, remember to pick up some 1/4" or 3/8" boards, available for a couple bucks at the hobby store (whree you are already shopping for plastic triangles, anyway). For most work, I like a rawhide mallet. I've used Garland 11 oz rawhide mallets for years.. wore out some. I'm all about NOT spending money you don't need to, but I consider this money well spent. As for leather, I like 2/3 or 3/4 for wallets (which I generally line with 1 1/2 0z chrome tanned). Leather thickness usually goes up as the project size goes up. I usually have 2/3 up to 8/9 around here. It's important, perhaps more when you're new - not to get sucked into a bunch of stuff you don't need. TIP: there are people who want to sell you something.. not their problem if it doesn't aid you. I haven't been up there for a couple years, but I know there's a Tandy in Bloomington and another in St Paul. You should go past those and look around a bit...

LOVE the carving. Ornate without being cluttered, nice blending of textures, good use of the swivel knife. PURDY

Welcome! Don't forget the Glock G42 magazine pouch just put up

I wouldn't worry about the snaps. I made belts for a L O N G time with them there line 16 snaps.. and me 'n' some buddies worked out like animals. You CAN NOT get stomach muscle heavy enough or strong enough to pop the snaps.. the harder you push, the tighter you force the snaps (if they're properly installed). The pressure down the length of the belt is on the buckle bar (heel bar, center bar, whatever) and the pressure front to back is ON the snaps pushing them TIGHTER together. Someobody tells me he kin pop 'em, I'd say I'd hafta see that.

Nice, but now he neeza belta match!

Honestly, when I carve a belt, I usually add water with a sponge -- to the BACK (flesh) side of the leather. Flip it over flesh side down on the rock, and shortly it's ready to go. Never sees a plastic bag, chemicals, refrigerator, any of that. Truth is, ther's moren one wayta skin a cow

That looks like a line 16 "segma" snap. But I'd be willing to hear about the casing, too. "Casing" is one of those terms people like to throw to appear to sound like they know something. Like "burnish" and "walk the tool". I can tell if something was tooled wet. I can tell if your leather is currently too wet. But I don't believe ANYone can tell you HOW LONG it's been wet.

Shucks .. 1000 downloads of the 1911 patterns. S'pose that means i gonna hafta upload sumthin newta work on!

Swivel knife and a beveler? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1002-basketweave-dice-cup-by-gerald-poissonnier-series-9d-page-12.aspx

Theoretically, THE best belt strip is right along (and parallel to) the spine. Oh, and with the "holes" end from the butt end of the cow. So, for belt leather, I order backs. You can order bends, which is a back minus teh single shoulder, but since you make holsters, you might get the backs --- and then you cut the shoulder off, make belts from the bend and holsters from the shoulder (and they are from the same hide, so they match!).

It sounds like you may need to stitch it twice. Stitch, form, allow to dry, antique (if you must!), allow to dry, cut stitching out and re-stitch. Poly thread may resist the antique better than nylon, but I don't see white stitching staying white either way. I have cut the stitching and re-stitched a few times -- but there is a proportionate price increase, too.

That looks pretty wide. How far from clip to clip? You'll likely find people who can't use that.

nice colors .. stitchin' lookin' good too! I can tell you my first holster didn't look nearly as trim as yours

That wallet is certainly thinner leather than 3 oz.. more like 1 1/2 oz. And realistically, if somebody already made a pattern for something similar, it may save a guy some time to spend a few bucks to get the pattern. But, I certainly wouldn't spend the time i saved watching a video that's over an hour. Patterns should come with instructions how to use them. Useless if they don't come WITH that.