JLSleather

The good news over there is.. there's SO MUCH stuff. The bad news on the other hand,... there's SO MUCH stuff. Bit of a pain not having the pricing right there. I've been in there a few times, and basically don't care to find the image on one page and the pricing on another. Getting soft, maybe

If you're looking for ease of use, I think the guy down town uses corel draw - no idea what version. It looks to do all a guy would need.. or maybe that guy just makes it LOOK easy. With all the scanners and plotters available these days, I think a guy could get by with just a sheet of paper in the proper size. Personally, I prefer graph paper... seems to help with broad curves (and proportion of them). Paper patterns must work. there are thousands upon thousands of them sold, including many that are now like 75 years old and still available (some of you may have heard the name Stohlman).

It looks like your leather was too wet to tool (which is a common error for new guys - including me). Still, the holster overall looks purdy good.

Never used 'em. How did you decide they are "high end"? Personally, I still like my Craftools, though you have to have the older ones. Found this pattern in a drawer the other day. Anybody remember where it's from? Ahh.. no matter. Done with the old Craftools, though. Don't have any idea where he gets 'em, but you can often find the old "goodies" on Ebay. He has a set you might look at right now, in fact ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Craftool-Co-USA-Unknown-Checkered-Beveler-Stamps-4-Leather-Tools-/252071694760

Surprising that nobody considered the thread. I think most of us can figure out how to avoid puckering / wrinkling, but I personally don't like what it does to a stitch line when you flex after stitching. So I curve a bit. A small waist size has more curve than the bigger fella.

The "give" you are referring to means one is stretched and one is puckered. Your belt, so only you know if that's acceptable.

Don't carve that in stone. It matters what KIND of holster you're making (though, I DO prefer 7/8 for a basic OWB). I've made them using anywhere from 6 to 10 (or so).

I kaint spell sigma, but there's a pattern for the G19 and instructions to make it over here. Wet forming is simple enough --- dunk the thing in a bowl of warm water, put the pistol in a sandwich bag (or similar - don't matter) and shove it in the hole. Some folks use a vacuum seal system, some use a press, but if you're just making one or a few I'd recommend just shaping a bit with modeling tools. Tool handles. Bone folder. Chunk of aluminum or stainless without sharp edges. Basically, anything without hard corners that isn't mild steel (steel and wet leather is a bad combo).

Trying to remember, actually Using rings - which ended up about 1" above the top of the bag - then generally the solid strap was about 34" long. That's what I listed them as last time I made "strap" things... then they just let me know if they need it longer or shorter (few did). With the adjustable ones, cut two straps about 24" long. Put the conway buckle a couple inches from teh end of one, with the prong up through the only hole in the strap. Then punch the adj holes in the other every 2 inches. This will keep the buckle from being right on top and digging in the shoulder, and will raise or lower the bag 1" each hole moved. Oh, AU.... that would be about 60cm for you boys down there.

That's actually a pretty smooth working program. Not nearly as powerful as AC, but not nearly the price tag, either! Testing it out, I don't think there's anything you need beyond this - - works good. Well, splines get a bit cumbersome, but otherwise .......

A few leather people seem to grasp this easy enough. But then they'll stop there. I've seen 'directions' for belts that say "add 2 inches" all teh way to "pants plus 4 inches". Maybe my customers a little smarter Nobody wants 6 inches of belt tag FLAPPIN' around on the end, so try to keep it reasonable. In theory (assuming that the math is correct, that teh waist size is right (including thickness of jeans), and that you're using double 7/8 oz, then the shift in size from the inside to the outside would be about 1 9/16". Some genius will be here in a minute to say ... just make it 2" longer and it'll be fine - AND IT LIKELY WOULD. As long as you measure and mark the OUTSIDE (grain side) of the OUTER layer AND measure teh "tag" end (or billet) AFTER marking the position of the holes. ONE belt, maybe doesn't matter for that. But what happens when you get an order for 6 belts that all need to match ... Oh.. just a little simpler? Onions have layers. Peel one off. Is the rest the same size, or a little SMALLER?

NOW then, note that in the above example, if we used 1/4" leather instead of 8 oz, then the waist would be a 38 (outside) the first layer would be 39 5/8" (outside) the second layer would be 41 1/8" (outside) so clearly it MATTERS. . But, does it also matter on the INSIDE? Perhaps it helps to think PVC pipe.. If a pipe is 38" around the outside: with a wall thickness of 1/8", then the inside would have a diameter 1/4" less, and the distance around the inside would be 37.2", but if you have a wall thickness of 1/4" (or if you "sleeve" it with another 1/8" "layer"), then the inside diameter is 1/4" less again and the distance around the inside is about 36.4". Clearly, a double thick ( 1/4" ) belt 38" long is not going to fit a 38" waist UNLESS it's 38" ON THE INSIDE. Again, you can test this. Take those pieces of leather you cut in part 1. Curl up one piece on the table, so that it butts up flush, like it was on your waist. Hold it together with a small piece of scotch tape on the inside, just enough to hold it for a bit. Now, take the other strip, and curve it the same way, and put it INSIDE the first one WITHOUT overlapping it (good luck).

Well, this aint the full version, but maybe enough to make sense. First, you need to grasp a few simple statements. I say simple because they are generally obvious to most, but for some reason people get a piece of leather and forget simple things Everybody has a size. You can get that size with a measuring tape. A belt needs to be BIGGER than the waist. If it was the same size, it wouldn't go around. PLUS, it needs to be bigger than the size of the waist PLUS the thickness of your jeans / slacks. Those people who say the thickness doesn't matter are either confused or lying. What they're telling you isn't true -- only question is whether or not it's intentional. Say you're using 8 oz leather, which we'll use just because it's easy. If your waist measures 38" (which I'm using because it's the most requested) then the outside of that piece of leather will be 38 PLUS 1/8" all the way around. Math guys will tell you this is a little more than 38 3/4". Now, if you add another layer of 1/8", you have 39 5/8" (on the grain side). Which, clearly, is not 38. But you can prove this to yourself easily. Take two strips of 8 oz leather long enough to go around you. 1" wide is enough for this. Wrap one around your waist, and cut it so that the ends meet at your waist (no overlap). Now, cut the other teh same size. Wrap the second one around the first one. There ya go

That works IF you have the person it's for. Beyond that, it will depend on the user.-- 5' tall and 135 not the same strap as the guy 6'2" and 225. Personally, I like conway buckles for that type of thing. Both ends of both straps are retained.. no tip to 'flop around'.

Not sure how I missed that! I was going to call Ray today anyway

Gonna call em today -- I'll let ya know if they got one.

Is there a 'dummy' for the OLD model super blackhawk .44mag? 7.5" barrel but that's less critical.

Where's that guy? Isn't there a feller comes round here from down under, sells / services machines?

You more ambitious n me. I just get it teh way I want it, and give it to the cutie at the print shop. If it's bigger than 12 x 18 or so, I don't wanna make it anyway Plus, did I mention she's CUTECUTECUTE?!! Jennifer Somethingsomething ...

What, no 3-d render with spotlights and drop shadow?

And graph paper works quite well

Maybe ask Bob?

How thick them 'rounders'? 6 oz? 8?

Rolls or plates? I've heard some good stuff about the roll embosser from bunkhousetools.com. I don't have one of those myself, but I can tell you that Raymond T is a pretty good guy to work with.

What are you boys designing that requires all of that?