JLSleather

Correct. I've got a few decent pieces from there, but they were the exception. I would call and complain, they would apologize for the "mistake", send me a different piece. But I was spending SO much time on the phone with them, it just became not worth it. They didn't seem to understand that I KNOW what H.O. A and B grade looks like - usually that's what I would order and use SLC for the ocassional odd weight. Like as in I don't use a lot of 5/6, so instead of buying multiple sides from H.O., I would order 7/8 at H.O. and use SLC for the ocassional 5/6 or 4/5. I got one side of 5/6 I could stretch a 1.5" wide strap by hand. ANYWAY.... Wickett/Craig has good leather, I've made a lot of holsters from their skirting leathers. That in mind, I have had a few issues with W/C as well, though not nearly as often. More than once I called to remind them that I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium. If you want to go with H.O. but don't want to buy minimum 10 sides, I always recommend Goliger Leather. It's a bit higher cost than some places, but they have ALWAYS sent me great leather. NEVER ONCE a piece I wasn't happy with. http://www.goligerleather.us/

back to the original point, I dont do a LOT of basket stamp, but when I do, I leave the back side of the holster (wearer side) SMOOTH, UNSTAMPED. Nothing to do with lazy - I want a smooth surface to glue down the belt loop to.

yup. LL is a diamond hole. I don't much like the "D" of "S" needles, as they make a hole I think is not as strong in teh direction of sewing, and I don't like the way it leaves "space" between stitches. EDIT TO ADD: I like a #24 needle, 277 thread on the "top" and 207 on the bottom MOST of the time (I have been known to sew 207/207). The pics above were #24 needles. yes, you certainly are. I found the service at LMC more hype than reality. I remember a post about it disappearing, prompting me to ask if advertisers here can get that done for them. Meh - perhaps it's better now, it's been a good while since I dealt with them.

exactly what i use - LL point, #24 pics show close up of the difference in a couple styles. the LL and LR points are the SAME needle size, same thread size, and same stitch length. The LR is kinda lacy and girlie, doesn't pull as deep, and makes the stitch LOOK longer (it isnt) teh LL pulls in deep, results in a very straight and tight stitch, with a hole geometry unlikey to tear.

Easy enough to put the spring steel between the outer leather and the liner - since this was all black it didnt' really matter one way or other, so this is done to show the construction.

Yes, and yes. USUALLY, a 'regular' line 24 snap, a piece of spring steel and a rivet, give the thing some substance to push on. This one on the back of a 686 / Python holster. Busy again, but stil meaning to get back to this conversation. PM sent...

I wouldn't antique a basket stamped leather anything. But then, I don't antique anything (save about twice where somebody threatened me with money if I would do that to the project, against my recommendation). If the moisture content of the leather is right, the burnish of the leather negates the need for ant-streak That said, IF a guy was insistent on that goop, considering that type of holster, I would then grudgingly recommend ... Cut out leather Stamp Line (if used) Sew Wet form Allow to dry completely. Oil if desired Ant-streak, using a fingertip TanKote or other top finish (I use resolene sometimes, sparingly)

I like the thread from Superior. Big color selection (including hot pink). That said, i also like the 'cowboy' brand I bought from Bob K / Toledo Ind Sewing.

It actually looks like we need to get you a good piece of cowhide. Using sub leather to learn the craft is like a guitar player trying to tune his ear with something off the walmart shelf How thick is that? I 'might' have a piece around here somewhere. Off to somewhere right now, but I'll check back.

dude - it's the SAME MACHINE. If you're already dealing with Bob K / Toledo Ind Sewing, I highly recommend you stay with him.

Tha's a LOT of work! Lookin' good

Oh, I DO use a "site channel", but generally not the full length of the holster. About the back of the port is bout as far as ya need most cases. Maybe this show it a bit better? Channel ends at red arrow.

uh... I'm gonna guess at maybe I understood that. Starting with.. 80/20 is a number I threw out there a few years back... it's not actually "calculated" to those numbers - just "about" that. Varies with the gun model, at least for me. And yeah - the leading edge stitch line will often be RIGHT AT the edge of the pistol (probably most obvious with Glocks and other "square" pistols). The trailing stitch line varies a bit depending on thickness of the gun, whether there are accessories mounted on it, etc. This is the same Glock holster shown above ,you can see about how much break is in it. It's not "flat" in the back, it actually curves beyond just flat to contour to the hip. Little harder to see since the pic was taken with a metal "dummy" that messed with the camera a bit. This little Sig P238 right hand (green dummy gun) might show the difference with these smaller pistols, and the pic of the other is a P320 Compact (blue dummy) just to show that they are not all done "just" the same.

i didnt' really follow this bit not sure i'm addressing your issue here, either, but I'll say this. I've seen SO many holsters where not much attention was given to the stitching placement, obviously. Then they seemed to rely on "boning" to create the tension they wanted. This will fairly quickly relax in and you end up with far less retention than desired. ONLY time I have a stitch line not meticulously placed is either 1) Im' making a traditional 'western' holster and want to keep the look, or 2) I'm using tension screws w/ grommets. In all other cases, I want that stitch EXACTLY where it belongs. This was another issue I had with adams' patterns - stitch lines weren't particularly thought out. When I attempted - more than once - to discuss that with the guy who made them, I was met with an excessively defensive response. Meh. I dont care WHO lays it out - I don't want holsters with a stitch line 1/4" or more from the weapon. This one went to CA a long time ago, but I use the pics for discussion. This was for a Glock 27 (or was it a 26... I'd have to check records). The customer asked for TOOLED, MONCHROME, THUMB SAFETY STRAP, and that '80/20' design style. These pics show the 80/20 shape, but also the tooling shows i knew exactly where the stitching would land before making it. Note the liner was NOT dyed. The bottom corner shows "craftool" numbers - somewher along the line somebody wanted to know which tools I used on this. AND THERE is a bit of the issue with making these other patterns available. What to put out, and in what way, and for how much? Include the tooling pattern, or no? A guy could get SO detailed as to come with a formula - or 'recipe" - for that shade of brown and the thread used to match WHO was it recently... asked about a P320 mag pattern off cutesy. Apparently I laid that one out to go with the 80/20 holster, so I din't realize that folks might want the 50/50 version of that. I do like to make the more stout mag carriers on a curve... like this P320, many of the Glocks, .. whereas a flatter mag like most 1911's isn't necessary.

okay as are many of mine I do make them NOT that and have had multiple requests to offer them. SOME of them are in PDF form now, still working ... MY point in them was the value of the user learning to design their OWN, and these "50/50" models do that very well (did I invent that term? maybe...). WHERE IS them pdf's.... Oh, here we go.. might help with the original question. I do need to get these files all combined into one... so theyz tgether and in order.... For now, I recommend the order here for understanableness... Holster_Theory.pdf PancakeLayout.pdf IWBa.pdf AvengerLayout.pdf Theory Pancake IWB Avenger

I disagree. This guy is gabby, and the intent of the video seems aimed more at keeping you on the site than actually discussing holsters. Take forever to "explain" the most basic act, appears to intentionally drag out the simplest idea. Gabby. The STohlman book is VERY good. Even if you're not making teh holsters shown, the PRINCIPLES are still valid. ANd check out the "tutorial" on holsters in the holster section - PDF by Jim Simmons ... good stuff in there as well. And SOMEWHERE around here are some PDF's I wrote a while back about LAYING OUT your own holster, and why it works. They're free, so if somebody beats me to it and provides them that's fine. which one?

what type of holster? Utube Sam Andrews - he's got some very informative videos on making leather holsters. Might be one or two others, but Andrews skips the hours and hours of droning on and on and just shows how its done well.

I guess you mean "deglazed". And yeah - that would be required. If it were possible, it would be difficult.

theyzz DEFINITELY glue under muh needles In leather, yer fixina find a WHIOOLE BUNCH o' fellas determined ta tell ya they got the "real" way ta do it. This was the reason for my "fade" video... they was fellas makin' HOUR LONG videos about that same thing, many of them claimin' they 'invented' that look. ALL of that was RIDICULOUS, so I showed how that kin be done in about 3 minutes once you got yer stuff ready. Tell a story while yer doin it, STILL only take 3 mins to paint the holster and mag carrier. Some fellas gonna tell ya ya gotta stand on yer left foot facin' east to sew leather, er whatever they makin' up this week I suppose you could - theoretically - get some glue on yer needle if you CAKED IT ON THICK, but I have no idea how a guycould git glue up in the machine

not sure i'm gittin yer question here.if it's under the exotic, it's glued completely. done differently one project to the next sometimes. In these examples, the pocket holster lizard panel was glued to the flesh side of a cowhide, and then together glued and sewn to the main body. That the question or somethin' else? I haven't had any issues with it at all. The small size of the scales lets it bend a pretty tight curve. It's machine sewn, so maybe that makes a difference? I do not like hole punches - too much chance for them to walk on you, or angle the wrong way coming out the back, or tear the leather on the way out (all of which I have had happen in the past). So, either machine stitch, or I have been known to put a machine needle in a drill press and "poke" the holes. SOME exotics you can get away with marking with an overstitch wheel and then using an awl, but not too many (exotics) work that well like that. But teju isn't armadillo so it aint too bad. It doesn't "burnish" in the condition shown, so I taper it to almost feather edges on the back side before gluing.

looks good , tho you could have just turned the zipper gusset other way and not added that piece I like to burnish and dye the edge near the zipper before sewing on the zipper.

these folk may have what you want https://bunkhousetools.com/product-category/holster-molds/

I generally like to "mix em up" with various exotic ACCENTS. I have made full snakeskin belts, but prefer to recess it or inlay it so the scales don't flake. Just one example of some issues that can arise with exotics. Somewhere along the line "prints' became widely used, but I aint really a fan there. Gona use fake gator, might as well use fake cow. IN the gallery some pics of various 'stuff' got added time to time, like such as ... Python Teju lizard Ostrich leg

I like to turn the zipper gussets the other way ,so they're flush with the outside of the case and get burnished together.. but that looks purdy good

for a phone? A case, or a belt holster? One I'd use like a 4/5, the other perhaps a 6/7.