JLSleather

That discolored area is your shuttle race. I don't know if that level of heat could ever be produced by operating the machine - even if it was oiled , say.. never. More likely, that part was broken (by impact) and received a less than stellar repair. You may be able to see an issue by removing it from the machine, setting it upside down so the bobbin assembly can turn in there, and then turning the shuttle / bobbin. I'm not there, but just looking at a picture, wouldn't be surprised to see a welded race had warped enough to cause picture 2. Guessin, still. The machine in the video doesn't say techsew, at least not above the paint job. Still, an idea of how that might look working. White thread used on top / black on bobbin just for easy viewing... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7MVSikaYEk That other part, not sure which parts you are describing. what I THINK you are calling 'collar that rides the presser foot" is in fact a clamp (of sorts), and I'm not trying to be insulting when I say I assume that you have checked those screws for tightness.

Does the 227 use a spring inside the bobbin case? If that's missing, that will allow the bobbin to "spool"

That .1 sounds about right. And that's about the difference in the length of the port. BUT, the length variation is TOWARD the butt, so not a big issue in molding the gun.

Uhhh... that listing is like a year old?

I like Charlie's design above, too, but I wonder if there's anything wrong with the idea of putting the stitched seam in FRONT on this one?

I prefer to use them pre-fabbed where I can, simply because in the time it takes to make them, I could have made considerably more $ doing something else.. Or, the same $, for less time, which is as good. Still, I sometimes make 'em when I want one off the beaten path. Or, if all that's available is that cheap pigskin crap. Here's a couple I did not too far back, specifically requested done this way. This is actually quite a bit more work than it looks like, and you can bet that those who "fabricate" them for sale have a set up just for this - only way to make it pay is MASS produce. Any rate, one for a "billfold", one for a "long wallet" (or whatever the kids are calling them these days). OH, and I have used the Chaylor interiors, which are okay usually (not git-on-a-soap-box-wonderful, but okay).

Definitely call Ron, seems like that would be the guy to see for your machine. Meanwhile, your "LR" needle may be rotated and not oriented quite right - that hole looks awfully oblong (l to r). Here's that pic again... this is a "LR" needle and an "S" needle, with everything else unchanged. 207 thread / #23 needle / 5.5 spi (or some metric equivalent)

I'm gonna go with both airbrushed, though it's possible that the first was drum dyed that way (less the silly Greek stuff in white). But that second one, pull the airbrush trigger, and go around the piece. Simple. Takes 30 seconds .. maybe.

That was my thinking too. I make holsters, and I've been trying to get some of the patterns into the computer (between other stuff- and without putting in 20 hour days). I git foks askin' WHY you need a pattern, just fold the leather... Which is nice if you're going to sew and dip it in dye. But some of these holsters will be TOOLED, so where it stops MATTERS. Enough about that.. those who tool already know what I mean, and those who dont tool don't apparently need to know The good news is, your parts CAN be pre-cut to the right size.

IF I do basket stamping, I like the stamp to run evenly down the strap. The stamp is angled, but the resulting "basketweave" runs down the length -- it does't 'wander' off the strap. Posted here, just so you can see it and decide if you like the look or not. Keep in mind, this belt is narrower than yours, so you'd have more "rows". Or, you may not use the same stamp. But, you can get different 'look' on the same width just by changing the stamp you're using but using the same technique. Well, technique may be too 'fancy' a term for this... anybody can do this.

Welcome.

Yep, me too. Overall, the rig DOES look good, and I certainly like the stitchin'. A bit steeper on the basket stamp on the belt, and on the holster, take it on around a bit further, and you wont have that 'fade' in the stamping at the front edge. Again, I still like the rig

More likely a distance from the bend to the edge problem, but tough to tell without pics. I take it the gusset is on the INSIDE, not the other way around. The height of the gusset is the distance LEFT above the fold line. The lower the fold line, the higher the top edge, and the more it will be "off", even tho your parts are correctly cut. I generally don't punch holes until it's assembled, and I just line up the CENTER of the gusset where it goes. You could mark the outside of the bag while it's flat if it's easier.

This a firm bag, or soft? Gusset edges turned in, or out?

Actually, the comment about the thread was simply that the thread you are using is no doubt twisted together, for strength. Would there be a different result in a controlled test, under steady (probably hydraulic) pressure (no jerking motion) to see which fails first? Possibly. Git some scientist to do a test for tensile strength (google probably already has that info somewhere). But, if somebody says there's a difference in COW, that would be significant by wearing a belt, I would say BULL. Standard issue marketing spiel. The next guy will tell you ONLY use polyester thread. The next guy will say ONLY hand stitched ....

IF you "repeatedly" have people tell you, then they have someone "repeatedly" telling them. Do you KNOW this 'builder'? He's testing the grain in your leg -- by PULLING IT Leather does have a grain, and belts have been made going 'with' it and 'against' it an every other way. Head to tail is better. Period. FABRIC is often woven for strength. Because it's individual previously unconnected fibers, and strength IS added by running the fibers different directions. In the same way, twisted or braided strands increase strength -- the materials aren't stronger, but there's more material per inch (or foot, or whatever). Ask the braiding boys how much loss they have in length of a project, though there's not actually a 'loss'. Plus each is pulling against the next, adding to rigidity (at least temporarily). That machine you use got thread in it?... '

SPF a PU w CIH

It's the 'swing away' thing off a cobra 4 machine. Used twice (or was it three times) $50, and you pick it up.

True The question then is which is crazy(er) .. him for wanting it, or me for agreeing to do it! Boogers ...

When you've messed it up, 'n' fixed it, 'n' messed it up, 'n' fixed it... some call that "experience", just means you aint the new guy any more

Lookin' good. Ever have an issue with the ostrich shins pulling up (scales)? Seems like angling like that would tend to help with that.

So, the 'splitter' is actually a strap cutter?

Anybody got a pattern for a IWB 'pancake style' left handed holster with a 30° forward cant and free access to the hammer? No? Fine, guess I'll make my own Should be simple -- it's just solid black. Good thing he aint picky. OOOPS.. he says it should UNDER the belt, but OVER the pants. And slots - not loops. SHEESH -- no discounts on this one. I gonna need the whole $12.

We seem to have different opinions about what is "good" leather. The NAME on the receipt means nothing to me. I don't care which tannery it's from or who retails it, if anyone. Simply, with good leather, you can fold a billfold closed, and opening it will NOT cause waves and/or wrinkles. Belt buckles may cause a "kink", but not wrinkles. It has an even and continuous thickness - no weak spots. The back is not 'fuzzy' and the front is not 'grainy'. I sometimes wonder how many hides are sold, and later PRAISED by people who are so used to seeing junk leather that they think that's normal.

Yep. Not much strain on a knife sheath. I get a kick outta them boys talking about holsters needin' at least 277 thread, because [as the story goes] less than that could break if there was a "struggle for the weapon". To those who think that a holster can be pulled apart after sticking with contact cement and sewing with 207 thread -- SHOW me