JLSleather

I like the transparent ones.

You had me up until "beer" My 'spot' is 12 x 26', but just one room. No separate storage, so I'm always feeling cramped. Still, I could double that space, and soon as I here a bottle open, no more workin for today !

You'll find extremes on both ends. "Buyers" who think that 'cant' be real handmade goods because there's no flaws AND "leatherworkers" who insist that their handmade CRAP is valuable BECAUSE of its flaws. In the end, I just do my own thing.

I'm right there with you. Been talking myself OUT of getting one of these forf a long time. I'm weighing the need for the press vs the need for the space. Still, I think purchase the ready to go version is the smart way, unless you have the tools to complete it yourself already. I can weld, and I was a machinist in my 'work' days (well, toolmaker). The issue then is, are the pre-fab ones 'straight'. Does the ram travel without 'floating'. Are the plates parallel to each other and flat (no curve/warp/twist from welding). In fact, the plates wouldn't need to be welded at all. Bottom one with rails underneath to keep it straight and keep it from falling on your toe, and the top one held with a couple of socket heads.

Not gittin' the green snowflake thing, but that stitchin' is looking purdy! Then the inlay around the guitar seems to tie it in a bit, so maybe the customer really does know SOMEtimes

Tensioner on the bobbin case? That IS weird that it flex only when moving. Must have been really "hanging" ...

Where was the screw that 'leans'? I have one of these machines - that info might come in handy one day (?). I was just going to reply that I use a #18 needle with #69 thread, and a 22 or 23 with #138 thread - works fine.

Priceless.

Just a guess (and that's ALL it is) - are you moving forward enough to complete the last stitch? That likely affect the tension going back if you diddn't let the last stitch "come around". On the other hand, for $3C maybe a fella could hand stitch that couple backstitches

Drill press works good. Lunch special was 6 wings with habanero sauce, dinner roll, fries, ana coke. And at the sale pickin it up I found midget guitar for the 9-year old. And I still had time to finish that belt. So, well ... that wall behind the drill press in teh picture sucks. Oh, but then - that aint my wall

"New" drill press that chubby girl found for me, just for doing this stuff. Think it's prolly worth the $50 she paid. Offered two MORE $$ (U.S. currency) but they would't deliver. Then, for that price, I could get the pickup out and have lunch at the new resturaunt my buddy opened with the change ....

Yep, I know the routine. Dont take it personal if I say for just a minute I was glad I wasn't the only one who catches that type of thing! Red Cent will be here in a minute to say "Customer always right"

Cops - go figger He wants a paddle - what .. so it's easy to get on and off the belt. Then wants something so it don't come off so easy

I'm rather with Dwight here. Leather and stitching look nice! But, that suede likely will break down pretty quickly. TWO problems there . 1) suede can catch and trap 'gunk' that can scratch and marr the firearm - 2) wear inside = loose holster (not good idea). I prefer a bit easier access to the grip, but each his own.

We’ll take both the Ring’s Ring's H&K USP 9 compact S&W 2" J-frame Is this email you use for PayPal? OH, and we'll take the M&P 9/40 also. Thanks!

I need one er two o these, 2 1/2" brass. I'd be willing to buy 10, but not buying 100. Anybody seen these?

This is an old one, but i'm loud enough to jump in and reply (replay) anyway. I don't do repairs on anything I didn't personally make. Well, wait -- if that girl that was here decides she wants her top altered, might be coaxed a bit there ...

8 ounces of oil should last about 30 years. Well, maybe not that long, but seriously you need like half a teaspoon for the WHOLE bag.

Oh, you may look at the bag, then look at the purse, and wonder why they don't quite look the same. This could cause someone to wonder what he's doing wrong while lacing. So, here's the thing... those lace stitches are angled 'right' .... like this / / / / / / / / / / the book likely shows the stitches angled to the left, ................ like this \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ Not that one is right or wrong, and since the holes are slits in a straight line, likely don't matter (if you do the whole bag the same way). Likely done either from the inside (which makes the stitches look the 'other way' from the outside) or by a 'lefty' . Just observation from the poop deck ....

Couple of things here .... 1) As a rule, you'll need about 7.5 - 8 times the length for that type of lacing stitch. Your bag is 10x11 (front) and 11 x 16 (body) yes? That would be a length of 96" (from your numbers) which would require about 768" of lace (translation, 64feet, or 22 yards). Judging the size of the bag from the pictures, you may need a bit less than that - but that's a guess from a photo. 2) When I re-lace something, I don't take it completely apart. Cut the lace about 6-8" along one edge with a scissor. You can run the scissor right along the edge, cutting the "loops" off of the lace without harming the bag at all. You could use a knife as well, but the scissor can't hurt the bag if it slips, where a knife very well could. Then just pull the 'bits' through just like in your pictures. Begin lacing there, and when you're close to where the old lace starts, just cut back some more. The bag never actuall comes apart (no holes to meticulously line up). 3) For all it's simplicity, that's still a nice looking bag. Certainly there are people who could do this for you quickly and for not so much money. Unless you'd just like the experience of doing it yourself, Aaron's proposition sounds more than reasonable. Oh, and 4) The products you mentioned are really not for "dry". You'll get any number of recommendations for this, but Neatsfoot oil or Lexol conditioner would likely be a better bet than the things you have. If you're going to attempt the project yourself, I would do any conditioning before beginning to cut the lace... but that may be just personal preference.

Personally, I'd replace it all .. no splicing to the old. You may notice from the book, you'll need to remove 4-5 stitches each side of each break to tie in anyway, and by the time you 'fix' all of that, you've got a bit many splices (thus, lots o short pieces).

So, where did you buy it?

Must be a decorative choice. I stitch right across mine - they fold jus' fine