JLSleather

I need one er two o these, 2 1/2" brass. I'd be willing to buy 10, but not buying 100. Anybody seen these?

This is an old one, but i'm loud enough to jump in and reply (replay) anyway. I don't do repairs on anything I didn't personally make. Well, wait -- if that girl that was here decides she wants her top altered, might be coaxed a bit there ...

8 ounces of oil should last about 30 years. Well, maybe not that long, but seriously you need like half a teaspoon for the WHOLE bag.

Oh, you may look at the bag, then look at the purse, and wonder why they don't quite look the same. This could cause someone to wonder what he's doing wrong while lacing. So, here's the thing... those lace stitches are angled 'right' .... like this / / / / / / / / / / the book likely shows the stitches angled to the left, ................ like this \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ Not that one is right or wrong, and since the holes are slits in a straight line, likely don't matter (if you do the whole bag the same way). Likely done either from the inside (which makes the stitches look the 'other way' from the outside) or by a 'lefty' . Just observation from the poop deck ....

Couple of things here .... 1) As a rule, you'll need about 7.5 - 8 times the length for that type of lacing stitch. Your bag is 10x11 (front) and 11 x 16 (body) yes? That would be a length of 96" (from your numbers) which would require about 768" of lace (translation, 64feet, or 22 yards). Judging the size of the bag from the pictures, you may need a bit less than that - but that's a guess from a photo. 2) When I re-lace something, I don't take it completely apart. Cut the lace about 6-8" along one edge with a scissor. You can run the scissor right along the edge, cutting the "loops" off of the lace without harming the bag at all. You could use a knife as well, but the scissor can't hurt the bag if it slips, where a knife very well could. Then just pull the 'bits' through just like in your pictures. Begin lacing there, and when you're close to where the old lace starts, just cut back some more. The bag never actuall comes apart (no holes to meticulously line up). 3) For all it's simplicity, that's still a nice looking bag. Certainly there are people who could do this for you quickly and for not so much money. Unless you'd just like the experience of doing it yourself, Aaron's proposition sounds more than reasonable. Oh, and 4) The products you mentioned are really not for "dry". You'll get any number of recommendations for this, but Neatsfoot oil or Lexol conditioner would likely be a better bet than the things you have. If you're going to attempt the project yourself, I would do any conditioning before beginning to cut the lace... but that may be just personal preference.

Personally, I'd replace it all .. no splicing to the old. You may notice from the book, you'll need to remove 4-5 stitches each side of each break to tie in anyway, and by the time you 'fix' all of that, you've got a bit many splices (thus, lots o short pieces).

So, where did you buy it?

Must be a decorative choice. I stitch right across mine - they fold jus' fine

Looks about like the ones splashed all over Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/170838098/handcrafted-realtree-camo-leather-bifold?ref=shop_home_feat_4 He's likely not makin much money per piece, but I suppose it all works out if you sell 700 of 'em Not a great labor investment, so he's prolly happy.

Yep, but far as i know not the ones that stitch that heavy. If you can get a new BOss for $1100, might be worth doing - just to have it there in case the other machine needed service and you got orders to put out. As a rule, I think foks around here tend to over-build anyway. I have never - and will never - make belts outta two layers of skirting leather. And #415 thread is for pulling my truck out of the snow bank, not for stitchin But, up to about #207-#277 thread and half an inch thick there are machines available. Toledo's 3200 model runs $1600 new. I just mention that one cuz it's at the top of this site. I didn't buy one, since I don't need one. But, if I was in the market for another machine I'd likely look at that one.

Agreed. I use Fiebings dyes most of the time, but the Angelus brand does have a "louder' green. http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html

Powered machines are available in that same price range. Only advantage might be either you're one of those who wants to be able to stitch at craft shows / rodeos / whatever (which I'll never do) OR if you see one that's SO cheap (probably due to them moving to a powered machine)...

I like 'em layed flat, grain side down, but I have a table large enough to do that, with a full-length shelf under it. It's also my cutting table, so I can pull out the piece I want, flip it on the table, make the cut(s), and right back on the under the table shelf it came off.

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/

I like it Personally, I do like the belt slots stitched, but just for cosmetics. Your rig looks GOOD !

New leather absolutely shouldn't be that dry. Is your shop very dry? In the winter up here, I run a humidifier. And, I assume that you're wetting the leather at the fold before bending ...

I MEAN it ... Primer? That's a whole CLASS

That's a LOT of questions I think I tend to run about one notch lighter than lots of folks when it comes to thread size. Some of that stuff is maybe better for pulling your truck outta the snow bank than for stitchin So your specific project ... think i'd probably wanna use a #138 thread at about 6/7 spi. There's some 'flex' in that depending on how firm the leather is, and such. Depending on where the pocket "hits", I might use up to 8spi. I rarely do anything 'tighter" than that. For gun slings / guitar straps, same thread and maybe step it up to 6 spi (largely decorative anyway). heavier stuff, heavier answer - so, holsters 207, weightlifing belts 207 or 277 @ 5 spi (that much strength isn't necessary - only in the mind of the weightlifter). I personally use thread down to a #46 (as well as 69 and 92) but that's under what your machine wants to do, no?

Yeah, most foks have sides in like 2/3 oz up to heavier skirting in the 14/15 range. Just a matter of keeping in mind that the belly of a cows hide, much like foks in general, tends to be a little softer and stretchier. Likely fine for linings or projects that dont get a lot of stress put on it. Not so good for holding sharp detailed form either. HO stocks weights, W&C will split it to the weight you want, even Tandy carries several weights. And there are grades in the sides, just like the shoulders. The reason I balk at buying sides (with the belly) -- you know that looser-grained slightly spongey stuff at the corners of yer shoulder leather? Imagine 5-6 sq feet of leather that's a bit worse than that. One more 'for info' thingy.... if you have the room for the belly, almost a toss-up to take it or not. They're gonna charge more for the backs per sq foot. Depending on where you buy it, 5-6 feet of leather is gonna run $40 (ish). So, if they're gonna charge $40 to cut the belly off, might as well take it. And one bitch and whine remark. Usedta be that foks would cut a straight edge down one length of the hide for you, just cuz you asked. Nowadays, they want a fortune for the smallest "extra". Remember when you usedta do things like that just because the guy would return the loyalty and get his leather from you all the time? ....

Red: If I had to use ONE word to recommend a fella what makes (largely) holsters and belts for them, "backs". THE best part of the leather for belts is in the butt, and running from the butt to the neck. Leather, like wood, has a grain, and a grain direction. Strongest in the center of the hide, along the spine, and butt to head. We've all seen some really nice stuff made out of shoulders, and most of us have likely used them one time or another. Theory, if you cut from the same hide (all else the same) then the BACK or BEND leather will be stronger down teh length than SHOULDER leather (since the double shoulder strip is cut "across the grain, allowing more stretch). Realistically, if you're making belts double layer and stitched (and not tooled extensively) then the shoulders are fine. There's a LOT of strength built into multiple layers (and the thread becomes a "layer" for strength). I buy sides in lighter weights - 3/4 4/5 - because I can use the belly leather (which is much more porous and loose grained) for small projects that don't get stressed much. Wallets, coin things, portfolio interiors, and belt linings. That said, I'm talking about lining belts that are carved, lined and stitched with a TOTAL thickness of about 10-12 oz (the lining is intended to be PURDY, not carrying any weight). Above about 5 oounce, I buy backs, because I know I won't use up the smaller pieces and can't be bothered to split it down. So, the belly is no use to me, thus I buy the 'back' (the side, with the belly cut off). Reason I say backs: The best belt leather comes from the BEND, which would be from the tail to the shoulder. But suppliers price by this "cream of the crop", too. Buying the back gets you the belt bend, plus the 'single shoulder', which as you already know is fine for holsters. If you're dyeing rich browns and blacks, perhaps no matter. The advantage of usig the backs is that you have a belt and a holster cut from the same hide - which then should dye the same. And form the same. And stitch the same. And...

It DOES! I checked those stamps on the Weaver site. Even if they were availalble, those are NOT the stamp that made that border. I havent seen the one from Watts, and don't see any on that site either. If it looks like the Weaver's that aint gonna work. Not a problem, though, I like to do what I said i'll do. So, if it's $8 to research and find you the right stamp, I'm OK with that Tell me where ta send it, might just cover the shippin'

Just saw the listing. Two things I'd ask about. What happened to the guard by the take up lever, and , why don't he know if the light works, is his arm broke and he can't flip the switch? I don't like those "works far as I know" deals Just a thought.. isn't "Cobra Steve" out yer way? Think he has used machines as well as new ones.

I have the RB-5. Two layers of 9 oz veg tan will go through it, but I think if you'll be sewing this consistently you might step the machine up one size. Theory says it'll sew like 1/2" (two 9 oz more like 9/32"). But, my truck speedometer reads to 130 - doesn't mean it should be run at capacity like that. I'm not a sewing machine "guy", but as a guy who worked with machines and gears for a good while, I can tell you the rule is 60% capacity. If you want to go 60 mph, get a machine that "could" do 100 and you'll likely be fine. That principle, if you want to sew 9/32", you might get a machine that will sew about 15/32" without 'screaming'. The other issue, if you're sewing bags, a fella might want a cylinder bed machine (so you can stitch the tops). Now, if you got the chance to pick one up cheap, not needing extensive work....