JLSleather

Prob'ly make a difference if he wants to cover them on the rod (as in protect them from sunlight and brush) or put them away for the season off the rod. I've seen these for storing -- looks almost like a pistol case. On the rod you'd probably want the reels he has in mind for dimensions. Stohlman had a reel case in one of his "Art of Leather Cases" books. Or, you could check here.

Apparently, there's a handbag coming back. That's if the girl can be bothered to show up with it. This one was ordered for a Mother's Day present couple months ago, and I didn't know what the problem was because I heard it from the wife, who heard it from the girl, who heard it from her mother.... Saw the girl who ordered it this morning, asked if she was bringing it back. Figured worst comes to worst, I'll just make her a new one and replace it. But the girl says it has "dulled" and "ain't as shiny" and the purple (orchids) have faded. This SOUNDS like direct sunlight issue to me, so I'm putting this in this older discussion in case someone else has had this issue. Girl said my wife "hounded" her again yesterday to bring the handbag (since she was at her mother's house all day). Nothing yet, but I'm thinking we might just use this as an opportunity for us all to gain something. As in maybe I'll try to fix it with something I haven't used before, and let it be the "guinea pig" - then just replace it when it doesn't work Oh, yeah ... here's what the bag looked like when it left the first time. Note that 3 other bags I made that same time are just fine, all using the same hide and the same Fiebing's spirit dyes (in fact, one was out of the same "purple" mixture.

I don't use a "mark" at all. Your question is one you have to answer yourself, though. Here's the thing ... Where to put the mark, or whether to use a mark at all, is as much a part of being a "maker" as the leather you choose, or the shade of dye you prefer. I recommend you gather information and suggestions - from this site, from suppliers, from other crafters, etc - and use the information to form YOUR OWN style. Put the mark - should you choose to use one - where YOU want it.

I LIKED the site. Menu ALWAYS visible (which I think is a MUST), nice photos, personal without being "wishy-washy", clear navigation ... Two things I might do differently. Not that I'm necessarily "right", but thoughts (my wife says I'm antagonistic, but I disagree) 1.) Space the text just a bit. White on black will work, and the font size is okay for most, but maybe a few "points" added between lines. 2.) I would shorten the paragraph on your "wait time" page. Nothing on there sent me running for some other maker, but the initial impression when I click "wait time" is that I'm about to get a bunch of reasons why what I want is going to take too long. You cleared that up IN the text, but I think some will get that impression and be out. I LIKE the big, bold time frame right at the top (and "up front"), but maybe (without altering your text) shorten it up to NOT have that first impression ... Wait times are the bane of the custom gunleather world. I am a drilling member of the Army National Guard, and a member of my local Search and Rescue Team. Because of the unpredictable nature of both , I've built a small margin into the wait time for unexpected callouts, so don't be surprised if you receive your item sooner than quoted. If for some reason I have to suspend production because of either duty, it will be posted both here and on the home page. I don't expect to be called away from my business for more than one week a year (and doubtfully all at once), but I would feel remiss if I didn't put the possibility of it happening out in the open. I added the paragraph break because (1) it takes the same space as what you now show and gives the illusion of being "shorter", and (2) it leaves the reader's eyes seeing "don't be surprised if you receive your item sooner than quoted. "

This is the short version copied from a HUGE list of file extensions. If you care to, you can read more ('til you get LOST in there) at FILExt. The DB file type is primarily associated with 'Windows' by Microsoft Corporation. File is THUMBS.DB. If a folder is set to display thumbnails for graphic files this is the file where they are stored. If you delete the file Windows will rebuild it the next time you visit that folder. The file is normally marked as hidden and a system file so you may have to change settings to see it. If preview thumbnails get out of sync with the actual files, just delete this file and let it be rebuilt.

TWO things .... 1.) If you let us know what kind of stuff yer lookin for, I can probly help. 2.) I checked your site, and my computer reports a trojan horse infecting your site. Might wanna check that (can't be good for sales).

In case there was still any question if quality is necessary to make money (or for those deluded into thinking that vast sales MEANT quality) ... yes, this made MILLIONS $$... http://finance.yahoo.com/family-home/article/109858/man-behind-the-bandz?mod=family-kids_parents

Maybe dip the edge (of a piece of scrap) and see how much of it "bleeds" up the leather. Like a bowl with 1/2" of 'roon in it, then the leather stuck in and allowed to "wick" the solution up .... ????

This is poster board, 4" wide. Two strips, about 2' long. Mark as shown, should be pretty clear (let me know if I left out any details), 3" roller buckle shown spaced 1 ½" so you can decide if you like the spacing. Note that I have drawn a center line and measured everything out from there. The # 9 OVAL punch (stars) can be punched inside the 3/4" marks each way from the fold and still have room for the buckle. Personal preference. #4 ROUND punch (circles) at 1-3/4" and 3" from the fold for CHICAGO SCREWS for the buckle. NOTE: I punch only the one side of the fold line, then punch through the same holes after the fold is made and the keeper is in place (eliminates poor fit due to variation in leather thickness, which can be considerable with skirting leather). Cut out your pattern, leaving the full 4" width for at least 4" on each end (if your pattern pieces are 2" long, you're covered). When cutting out the belt, simply lay both ends on a 4" wide strap and measure from inside the buckle to the center hole like any other belt yer makin'. Photo is cut down, but still considerable, so I'm putting it in the image gallery. If I get some more time later, I'll cut one of these out for here.

Let us know how this works for you. I've never used the Angelus dyes, but I've been wanting to (but then, I have alot of spirit dyes, and I'm too tight to replace what isn't broke )

These are all nice looking tools but - color me traditional - I like the first one best personally. Nice stitch job!

Or, since you specifically mention purple, this one is some purple ... with Tan-Kote (though I admit that the "purple" is my own mix of red and blue).

Apparently, you have an idea what you want to do with the site. SO - I'm not going to re-hash that. I DO, though, have one comment on the items on your site. I looked at it again just now, and specifically your "Cheyenne" wallet. I LIKE this design, and I LIKE that color ... only thing I didn't like about it is those "cheesey" letter stamps. Honestly, I know that sounds more negative than I meant it to ... I meant that I think your craft is too nice to litter it up with those cheap COWPOUNDING stamps.

For what it's worth, this little dealie was painted with 8 colors of Fiebing's spirit dies (no oil dye, no water-based) and finished with Tan-Kote. Lots of other projects get similiar treatment, but this is one of the most "colorful" so I thought one of the better examples for your question ... Oh, yeah ... I should add that while I used 8 shades, the project was intended to include NINE shades, the 9th "color" being the natural leather left showing.

So much for buying American ...

MOST of my projects involve Tan-Kote, but I never use the water-based dyes, so I'm guessing that the combination is what darkened your project. Where I used Fiebing's spirit dyes this has never been an issue, though it does slightly darken natural leather. For outside projects where you don't want "shiny" (another guess) I'd recommend neatsfoot (which darkens natural leather slightly). One of those who use water dyes may tell you more about what neatsfoot does to them.

NO property damage?^%#^*^#@$^$^!!! To all LW.net ... Cowboy316 now renamed Lucky001. About 100 years ago when I did some contracting, we roofed 9 of the 10 houses on that one block due to damage from 1.75" hail. The only house on the block NOT approved for insurance damage claim was the one right in the middle of the block! All the houses around her looked like swiss cheese. Storms do strange things sometimes. Told that lady 3 times I couldn't really stand there and argue with her insurance adjuster, who claimed she didn't have hail damage, because he wass right -- there wasn't any. Instead of being happy she didn't need it ... she was quite angry. She WANTED a new roof, and she wanted the insurance company to pay for it. Didn't happen.

Purdy! Makes me wanna shop for a horse (though I'm not sure what I would do with one ).

Yep, two votes for that. I read Spinner's post before viewing the site, but it would have been the first thing up anyway. Other thing is the menu. If I want a wallet, which you mention in the first paragraph, where do I find it? I DID find 'em, as I clicked in. Which brings me to the thing here ... opens in the same window. But the menu is gone, so even if I find a wallet I like, I'm not seeing how to order it. And the menu is GONE, so I have to hit "back" to get back where I was - and then I have to do the same thing all over with belts. The menu is alphabetical, except for color variations, and while I personally like that I think lots o' folks won't even catch that. I say all of that to say this ... 1.) Kick the "contact" information to the top of the page (in the header, so it's on EVERY page) and 2.) dock the menu so it comes with you (alternately, I actually prefer the page I clicked on to open in another window, so the shopper can either close the window to go "home", or toggle between windows). These are the things most glaring to me, but two points to Spinner for the starting price (before customizing). Not something that occurred to me right off, but he has a good point. Your site does appear "down to earth" and friendly, without being "cheesey", which I think is good.

I don't know that there is a "formula" for this, Mike. I've seen people pass up some very nice work to pay MORE for a piece that had me wondering what that cow did to the "crafter" to deserve that done to it Apparently, the buyer was one of those who thinks that more expensive = better. Can't really go by time invested, cuz I've seen 20 hours of work turn into some gorgeous pieces AND 20 hours become a disaster. And then there's that thing where you and I both make the same item. If the items are equally attractive and durable, reason says they should be the same price - even if it took me twice as long. Sadly, there's an old saying that "fair market value" is what you can get. Skipping long conversations about stuff I've sold, here's a couple o' quick thoughts about the sales I DIDN'T get ... one where the customer thought that was WAY too much money for ANY handbag where the clasp and dees weren't REAL gold, and one where the price was SO "reasonable" they thought there MUST be something wrong with it! These days, I just figure what it's worth to ME to do it. If a potential customer likes that, great. If for any reason they don't agree with me, that's okay too. OH, before I get out of the way ... just wanted to say I like your work

As Bruce mentions, there are tools available to do that. If, on the other hand, you are wanting to "engineer" something, how about an angled slit cut into the blade-holding portion of a strap cutter, set to the angle you're looking for (Hmmm?). If'n a fella wanted to get fancy (or do different widths) you could easily make the angle adjustable with a set screw coming in frm the end of the tool.

The oblong plate (above the gold oval) should tell you the model, and the stitch length is adjusted with the know just above it (up and down in the vertical slot). Does this help?