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JLSleather

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Everything posted by JLSleather

  1. Thanks, Boss ... that airbrush do make it fast
  2. The fastest, easiest, most efficient way to not have marks is not to remove them, but to not make them in the first place. Suit yourself, but I find a piece of 4 oz scrap length of your hand (or so) prevents marks (there are still marks, but they're in the scrap piece, not the project) Spreads the pressure, much like a wider foot ...
  3. Well, not always(I have a pretty good size "no go" basket) but thanks
  4. Rubber cement is temporary - it won't stay. Contact cement likely work, but not sure how flammable it is after it's dry. RENIA makes a water based product that should be fine, though I've never personally used it on cast iron For that application, I might try SUPERGLUE or GORILLA GLUE. If at some point you want to remove them, easy enough to cut the leather off and wire brush the cast iron.
  5. Kinda IS the bottom line. I got a slightly different "marketing" speech, since the guy talking was a bit like me -- CRAZY intelligent but not particularly diplomatic Guy wants to insulate his walls. So he reads up, decides he needs to put holes in the walls, blow in the insulation from the top, filling as you go. Goes to the hardware store, tells 'em what he wants to do. So the kid takes him to the drill aisle. This one, simple version, is $19. This next one has reverse, it's $29. And this one is variable speed and reverse, $39. And this next one has a "hammer drill" function, it's $89. By now the guy is unsure which way to go -- he doesnt' want to have to come back, but doesn't want to spend more than he needs to. So teh question is, WHAT does he actually NEED?@! The vast majority of people answered that the $19 drill is all he needs - no need to get all that other stuff. But he doesn't need a drill at all -- what he NEEDS is HOLES IN THE WALLS, you were just told that a couple minutes ago. The rest was just "marketing" hype distributed by somebody who feels the need to sell you something HE has. __________________ There will be some who CHOKE at the thought that I'm offering something nice for LESS than they are - always been that way. I had people get MADDER 'N' A WET CAT when I poured my buddy's new sidewalk for a pork chop on the grill. More than one person bout went NUTS that day a couple kids showed up at the fishin' hole and I gave em some terminal tackle. I'm thinkin' SO WHAT if it cost me $5 to see some kids havin' fun! And that one fella got all irate when I smooched his girlfriend. Wait.. that one might have some merit Sometimes I say something to that "get what you pay for"... often just let it go - ya kaint fix stupid. I do know that I have never been in the line at the store, found something on sale, and asked if I could just pay the REGULAR price (cuz 'on sale" would make it 'worth less', right?). I have taken discounts for buying bulk. I can get leather from HO at $8, or I could get it from a retailer where it's jacked up somewhere between 20-50% more. At HO, or at the retailer, isn't it the same leather? HOW is it worth more?... Ahh... talkin' to myself now Incidentally, this is the holster he received (front).
  6. If someone SAW your work, and wants one "just like it", then I wouldnt' worry about "the way the machine" does it - it's apparently not objectionable. Nothing dishonest or deceitful if they SEE and KNOW what they're getting. You might just tell them that IF they want that done by hand, that would be extra dollar amount. I make a point of NEVER pricing someone else's work for them, but I'm with Big Souix.. if I'm going to break even, I'm gonna figure I should have just gone fishin' ...
  7. Meh. That would make anything LESSER quality, at or above that price, OVERPRICED. Without debating whether my - or anyone else's - price is "fair", that does seem to substantiate what I said ... the price does not determine the quality. "Show Off" is for pics. Got it.
  8. This appear on Cutesy this morning... so much for that "get what you pay for" crap "This Holster fits my Sig P320 X-Carry perfectly. I had a problem finding the Proper holster fit and after talking to Jeff I found it was exactly what I needed. the quality is equal to holsters costing much more. Great buy!" .. Richard
  9. 154,731 FREE pattern downloads, causing what my site host calls "performance issues" This of course is just the holster patterns, not including the other info available. The current "download winner" .. most popular AGAIN --- GLOCK 19 pancake style holster pattern (7666 downloads). ALL of these designed, edited and uploaded on ** my own time on my own tools -- no employer billed and paying for time spent on my stuff. Dad always said 'pull your own weight'... ** DISCLAIMER: NO employers were harmed in the making of these patterns or the site which contains them.
  10. JLSleather

    Flush

    I didn't think that much. "Flush" is what I do when I'm done with an airbrush. Mix red and green... brown.
  11. JLSleather

    Flush

    Proving that everybody gets a break sometimes
  12. JLSleather

    Flush

    Yeah, I stitched with "med brown" thread, knew the color would be something-brown. Down side is, impossible to duplicate it! It's 8 or 10 colors flushed out of airbrush when cleaning, eventually adds up in the jar, so I used it 'as is'. Not as worse as I was thinking.
  13. JLSleather

    Flush

    From the album: Stuff 'n' things

    What do you call the color that comes from the mix of what flushes out the airbrush over time?
  14. Yeah, first thing I'd check is if teh return spring gittin soft .. not bumpin the bumper, as they say. Or at least verify that the chain isn't hangin up on sumthin'.
  15. If you gonna STRESS and STRETCH leather when it's wet, it's going to lose some tooling definition -- that is the IDEA behind tooling leather- get it wet and you can change its shape. That said, you CAN form objects - including holsters - after they are tooled. Keep in mind that the WETTER it is and the SHARPER THE TURNS / GREATER THE STRETCH the more the tooling is likely to be altered. This one was tooled, allowed to dry MOSTLY, then glued to liner and rough shaped at the same time. Once dry, it was sewn and edged, and after that it was wet AGAIN (wet, not soaked) and molded around the form. Note this is not formed to the extent that it's basically a replica of the gun, though the outside edges are pretty crisp.
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