JLSleather

Your stitches show heavy tension on the bottom --- meaning EITHER NOT ENOUGH TOP tension or TOO MUCH BOTTOM tension. Because the thread is not pulled up tight on the leather, I'm fixina opt for NOT ENOUGH TOP tension. I don't mean the holes, I mean the thread BETWEEN the holes doesn't look very tight. I know those needles and the thread you're using, and that don't look "sucked up". Try that thing I pictured. If'n t'was me, I'd back the WHOLE thing off 'n' start over. That's TWO screws above AND the bobbin case. Set you bobbin tension just so it has some "drag" when you pull the thread. NOT JERK the thread.. yer a equipment guy.. so think pulling the grader out the muck with a chain.. easy, even pressure gits er done, eh? Pull it in the direction it goes.. NOT against the thread path. Then adjust the top to suit. If the knot is centered, but thread not tight, then it's simple to snug up BOTH top 'n' bottom. I don't sew to see thread right there.. I sew like the top 'n' bottom is two elephants tug o war.. bury that thread in teh thing (almost)... By the way... you didn't want "light showing" through "big" holes. This is a 226 holster pic taken with a desk lamp pointed at it from behind. Size 24 Smetz LL point needle, 277 thread front and 207 thread back -- both threads supplied by Bob at Toledo Ind (link below). Yes, that's a fluffy pink pig on my desk, with her butt filled like a bean bag so she don't tip off. SO?@!

I like the idea. Material?

Oh, and this one, which may be a little more visible stitching ...

No. All of these done with 277 / 207, and #24 LL point needle.

277/207 works -- I do it frequently. Still use a 24 needle ( LL ). Bobbin goes a little further, otherwise not much difference. Sewing holsters, 207 is plenty - but i use 277 for the COSMETICS.

I looked for info in this topic too. Didn't see it just yet. Idea is, the "solution" should be EASIER and/or FASTER than a pencil and paper. If it isn't at least one of those things, then it's just making work.

Yup.

Just gonna have to get over it and get used to adjusting it. WE ALL would love to have a machine that you 'set and forget" (I've actually heard from people who asked for it set up at the dealer so they never need to change it). BUT ... varying firmness in the leather, thickness variation, thread size and quality, and a GAZILLION other variables all affect the setting -- even just wear on the machine (springs lose some pressure, discs wear ..). Better to learn how to adjust it yourself. Ask questions, get advice, and remember what you saw and did. By the way,.. I wouldn't worry too much about "remembering where it was before".. for some of these reasons. But if you feel like that helps, a fine tip marker on the dial should be close enough. If you're a bit ocr, count the threads on teh screw.... (yes, tha's intentional).

I'm glad to see BSS reply to this issue. I was thinking the same thing, but chose to defer to superior knowledge

I think that may apply more to fabrics and synthetics... likely far less useful on leather, where firmness, thickness, dryness, and tanning will all affect the material condition and thus also affect the required tensions. Probably great for manufactured materials which are quality controlled for consistency.

Isn't the thread supposed to wrap around this disc all the way, THEN go up over the pin?@

I think that's the same ones hold the boat tarp down - should be sturdy enough!

Just oil it. Excess will run off and won't hurt anything, assuming it isn't in the middle of the living room carpet. Too much better than not enough. Put a scrap of cow under the presser foot - it will catch and absorb any that drains

Yep, definitely has a shelf life, but I think more likely that your thread is drying out. Wrapping it when not in use DOES help. I've a had a few spools go "off" -- the heavier threads (277 and up)I set off for when I have a project needing hand sewn, the lighter weights get offered to someone or pitched out ... nature of the game. At $10-12 (for the smaller weights) ... I figure by the time it's out the door it's paid for itself a bunch. I don't have a "lube pot" on mine, but I suspect that would at least ease the problem, but not likely eliminate it.

That seems extreme just to get a snap. Kinda like startin' a cattle ranch so's a fella kin tool leather

Both good ideas. And, have we asked the instagram user that posted them what they are?

Better? Idunno I much prefer the look of the belly cut, particularly on snake with bold markings like the diamondback or python. Cutting the belly preserves teh "pattern" of the skin. I'd LIKE to say that it's more "durable" as well, but can't really claim that. Truth is, snake isn't very tough -- even when solidly glued, "stroking the fur the wrong way " can unseat scales (the few belts I've made with snake, I like to lace the edges.. protects the edge and helps kick the belt loop up off the scales so you aren't "grating" the snake when you back the belt out.

Welcome - glad I could help. MUCH of leather work is quite easy ... don't believe them "fancy' folks who spend their time trying to tell you they are somehow "special" and doing something you can't do. Folks with a physical limitation is valid -- arthritis, limited mobility, etc - but the rest of us can just have at 'er

could be any number of breeds. whip snake is common, and that size would be about right. This looks a bit different than some because it's back-cut, leaving the belly scales prominent down the middle.

Oh, yeah - that counts. I saw a thing - maybe best word to use for it -- where a guy took a pattern from an old publication, offered it for sale, then wrote a paragraph in the sales pitch that it violates copyright law to copy, sell, give, distribute "his" pattern.

Well, we were talking about holster patterns. As for that other stuff, I just meant things that a man would do.

You can operate the machine with the end cap off - just keep the fingers out. Stitch a few holding the thread like usual, then you can watch the end without watching the top. As for the pressure spring, keep in mind that a new spring will be "stiffer" than one broken in.

Needle is not too small. I use a #24 needle with 277 thread up and 207 thread down --- never an issue. Depending on the thread (not all thread is equal) I have been known to step up to #25 when sewing with 277 top 'n' bottom.

Oh, yea -- definitely looks like it's fraying at the "loop"