JLSleather
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Grey dye
JLSleather replied to glockanator's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Fiebing's did have a grey - haven't seen it in a good while and they may have discontinued it (?). Good news is, you can make about any strength of grey you want by reducing black. Angelus does have a 'grey' and a 'dark grey', but I haven't used either of them so can't really comment on them. The angelus dyes I have used worked very well, as long as you don't try to mix them with the fiebings. -
You wont entirely eliminate the "line". But DO glue to the edge. In fact, I generally glue the back of the belt, then cut the liner about 1/4" wider so I don't have to "fiddle" with lining it up. Stick'er down, tap the edges, trim. If you got any "glue boogers", a piece of canvas will take it off easily.. no water, just rub the edge with canvas (I'm told denim will work also). To avoid "bits" I didn't see, I just rub the entire edge - take bout a minute. You can POLISH that edge to no end, and you will STILL have a thin "line" (but no space between layers).
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Know what AINT right here → or even right here ↓ ?@! PICS of all the fancy smancy stuff yer stitchin' with the new toys ...
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Course, that Glock 19 didn't exist back then, but your 1911 did
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Free (or next to free) is good - I got lots of stuff that came with a box of something at an auction, or estate sale, etc. I mentioned this pic, and got some kind of conversation about what some old dude did when he was 7, or something like that Still, there's some good stuff in those old things you find in closets and attics (state of the art in 1952!). I STILL get asked to make some of the holsters from that book, and made some others from those 'fold outs" just because I liked them - plus, it was nice to actually MAKE the rigs, then try the fit on OTHER pistols than what they paper said they were for - there's still some learnin's in there!
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And pics of the various stages of work ??!@!
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I 'get' fillers / welts... those pics are in a lot of the old books (this is STILL a trait of leather books - sell you a book, then put a new cover on the same info and sell it to you again). I was talking about Stohlman's note - p 23 "fillers are recommended for this type of holster". What "type" of holster? I don't mind that nobody knows, don't even mind that so many refuse to say that they don't know either Correct. Just not everyone will say that. Not sure why nearly EVERY discussion of making a pattern has you tracing the gun and adding 3/4", regardless of the model. Then to say "this type of holster" as if it were different from any of the others ...
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I never did see an ACTUAL answer about welts 'n' fillers ('they do stuff" is not an answer), but I did think that Jim's article was worth reading.
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Bob da man
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Not big on nylon. You can get red sable hair for like a dollar or two more. Great response, and last near forever if they're cared for.
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YEAH - that's the ticket, rot cheer boy Next one -- TAKE PICS at stages while ya go, and I'll turn it ina pdf fer ya Just fer easing my obsessions, I would run the front stitch line on up. Keep 'er tight to the contour ya made with the cutout.
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I "cased" some leather when I first started -- probably just because that's what the old Tandy books said to do. Wasn't long to figure out that isn't necessary - possibly due to changes in tanning processes (?) over 50 years, idunno. I sponge. Most of the moisture added to the back. When it comes through the front, you ready Didn't get to finish your carving in one sitting?@! No worries - decide which part of the design you can FINISH, and finish it - then cover the rest with a piece of tracing film that's laying around anyway, and it will still be fine to tool later, or tomorrow (just don't leave it wet for days).
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I'm not kidding -- open an idiot contest and I'll WIN. WAIT .. lemme rephrase that! I really DO know something about leather. But it's only because I learn from my mistakes - and I've made a LOT of mistakes. Usually the result of doing too many things at one time. Cut a holster with a pattern. Flip the pattern over to cut the lining. Take a phone call. Back to the bench. WHERE WAS I?@! OH, yeah... flip pattern for liner ... DOH!
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Wanna take just about a minute, maybe even minute 'n' a half ... Gibson was staining guitars like that at least since the 50's, but every so often there's another leather guy going on about "designing' or "coming up with" it. The 9ve is one I never did get round to. Somebody mentioned one, but never produced MONEY (which is required to get on that list). Don't think I've ever seen one outside a gun show. Perhaps get round to that later, but other business needs some attention currently.
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The contours would NOT line up if you had it highly detailed. And the 686 and 686+ use the same frame, but I doubt that the 686 frame is the SAME as the Taurus frame (though quite similar). Never fired a Gp100 - just seen 'em . Most of the boys around here are S/W fellas, occasionally somebody with a bit more disposable income likes a Colt, lots of the single six ...
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Yup. SAME frame, same barrel placement, makes the difference about 8° (same center line diameter). He's not wet molding that closely, using tension screw(s) for retention. Never messed with the +, but the "old" 686 (and of course the blued 586) is purdy.
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We don't know. What's the size difference between tehe 6-shot and 7-shot cylinders? Enough to matter with a 'bucket' holster? Prolly not ...
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Those screws probably a "6" punch, if you're at the Tandy. Or .200" (which is about 7/32" for you fractional people). So buckle slot is likely about 3/16" x 3/4", and if you went with 1/4" x 3/4" it wouldn't hurt a thing. Oh, and a piece of steel under the stone will keep the stone from flexing (again). Stone very hard surface, but not really made for unsupported vertical shear.
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Hey, good deal on WORKING trumps shiny any day
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Right up my alley -- text/prototype/mistakes are my SPECIATY What model machine? LOTS of folks around her kin help with that!
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Yessir, that is what I mean. Wet it to open is a good plan, too. What holster was ya makin'? I'll send ya a chunk o leather I think you might like -- we'll chock it up to makin' up fer my half-advice Long as I said that, I should add that in SOME cases, it helps to sew down one side so it hold still while ya mark other end!
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Oh, yah -- gotta hava little humor in there and that guy what makes 'em wont' care if'n ya pitch 'em
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I like 'em toward the low end of the cylinder. Or just under it would likely be fine. Never cared for them what got a tensioner screw up at the trigger guard area.
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I think I've seen that one. In fact, I think we all have Mine try to GET TO THE POINT. No fancy "intro" and "sag-way" and music copyrighted by someone else, and name-dropping people I think you may have heard of. It aint a 'how to" video if'n it don't show ya HOW TO.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIIwpNGXXBo