JLSleather

Cookie cutters -- sets. I'll have some cleaning out to do ... making changes here 'n' there. Yes, they are sharp with no nicks / chips, ready to cut when you open them. No, I'm not interested in breaking up the sets, even though some pieces can be used with other sets as well. Trim nail gun and walleye landing net in some photos not included.

Kicking this up, what with all the questions and comments lately about leather cuts and quality. This is what leather is supposed to look like - this isn't a "stellar" piece I hand picked by going through a stack , it's one of 10 standard HO leather from HO, all look about the same. Weird, I didn't get the new price list this year, or maybe I did and it's at the old address ..

Not much strength in belly leather - I don't use it. What is considered "acceptable" varies with the user

Meh .. leather is (or at least was) about using what is available for useful purposes. This is more like making something "'new" so we can sell more stuff. One is a benefit to the planet.

Definitely the foot pedal ASSUMING THE CHAIN doesn't have a bunch of slack in it..

Picture would make it easier, but that must be ONE ... THICK .... HOLSTER ....!

This comes with a machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ui1A2CtxXnE And this is one version of a drop-down replacement (including one place you can get one): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWd4FlRHv-Q&t=538s

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That would work also. I was suggesting the table top drill press since that will punch the holes if you want, BUT WILL ALSO allow him to insert a burnisher to do the edges without getting another tool.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html Watch their ads, you may find a coupon to save even more on this. At this price, if it fell apart in a year who would care?!@!

if you can find a '2' harness needle should work. I have used 4's but you have to mess with the ends of the thread a bit to get it through the eye smoothly. I don't know if I've ever seen an 8, and a 0 or above is fine if you need a pry bar. I wouldn't worry about asking questions -- nobody was born knowing this stuff, and hopefully some folks will save you the trouble and expense of repeating mistakes they already made.

There's about a zillion types of needles - these are just some I have. I MUCH prefer teh LL point, but i got what they had in the size 23 at the time, and the D is similar (I have since bought #25 in LL point, and these have been around a while). Somewhere around here there's a pdf file explaining this much further, but I just know what I like. I haven't found "diamond" point needles smaller than #23 for the 441 style machine, and I have not needed anything larger than a #26. Smaller needles are available for other style machines - I know I have used #16 with a flatbed. More info than that, check with Bob at teh red link below ...

OR, you could take teh file to a print shop and have them print a few on 80 lb or 100lb stock, then it's a done deal. Using the OUTER of the pattern lets you see the piece you'll end up with. That's a SIZE 25 needle with an "S" point. 346 is the thread size used. The S point makes a different "hole", so it makes it appear that the stitches are spaced more (they aren't) because the hole is longer and not filled in. The other is also a SIZE 25, but with an "LL" point (which I prefer). More like a hand awl would make, keeps the stitching line straight (no sissy angled lacey lookin stuff) and fills the hole as you go. Leaves the leather seam stronger.

I use nylon thread MOSTLY (and a bit of poly cuz I had to know for myself). Don't think there's a big difference. "Supposedly", the poly is more resistant to UV damage, but how often is a concealed holster in the sunlight? By the time the thread even begins to be 'damaged", the holster (and maybe the gun) would usually be replaced, and if not, send it back and I'll sew it with new thread for free I like 6 per inch on smaller (thinner) stuff, 5 - 5.5 on the larger ones, and usually I use 277 or 346 size thread, which I think stohlman called 4-cord and 5-cord. I don't wax any of it. This was done to show the effect of different needles. Same thread (5-cord), same leather, same settings, but the needle change affects the finished look. This is a zoomed view showing 4-cord thread at 6 per inch, natural thread in natural leather. For scale, this is up against a Sig 938 (pointed to the right). And this is just a "tip"... if you're using a pattern you cut out, cut on the OUTSIDE of teh line -- tehn you can save the pattern piece, and use teh CUTOUT on the leather, so you can see the leather you are cutting out. Only takes one time cutting out a piece with an unacceptable mark on it to remember that one.

While it seems to be inadvertent and incidental, you have managed to make my main point You compare the finished product - "safely", "good job" or "doesn't", and "FAR better" - and determine price paid based on the quality of what you're getting. Which is exactly what I do. I will pay more for something that is "FAR better", but not for something that is the SAME , but TOOK LONGER. Or because it came with a wonderful story about how the maker works nine jobs, uphill both ways .... http://www.jlsleather.com/hand-made-well-made/

Sounds like you gave this some thought I've made about a JILLION holsters with W/C drum dyed skirting - works great. It's not as "hard' as Hermann Oak when set up, so it's different but not better or worse - just a different flavor. I always have black - since those Glock boys love black, no point dyeing all of that one at a time. Not sure why you found my pattern 1.58" slots.. they should be inch anna half. Maybe printed large, or maybe just thickness of the lines? My punch is 1.5" x .25", and you may gain a little when burnishing the slots (i make a point of staying close to that size - I hate when they "rock"). Finally, I try to END UP WITH about 8 oz total thickness MOST of the time. Larger firearms get heavier leather, pocket models are often 6/7. I don't use "suede" as most people think of it, meaning chrome tanned. Biggest reason for that is it doesn't form. As a rule, two layers of 4 oz is fine. Or when I tool it, I likely use 5/6 lined with 2/3 (the revolver pictured left was 6/7 cow lined with 2/3 goat, if I remember right). The Glock 19 on the right was 4/5 lined with 3/4. OH, in WI, the fit of your holster getting loose could well be from freeze/thaw/freeze/thaw We'd know better if we had a pic ...

That's what i was thinking, too. Would have been cool to see some type of "rope edge" stitch to suit what he had done. STILL, the replacement look purdy durn good.. consistent stamping and tight stitching -- looks good.

That's what I'm talking about

I never understood (and still don't) what is the perceived value of going SLOWER. I've actually seen videos and articles of people going on about how SLOW they can sew. Then with the other side of their mouth tell you it's expensive because it takes time! So, some amusing thoughts ... Would you pay more for a flight from Chicago to LA if the pilot agreed to go have as fast? When those boys show up to plow the snow from my drive, should I pay more to the fast guy, or the guy who takes a while? Does pizza cost more if it's here in 31 minutes or MORE? Okay, that was only moderately fun. But if you want to sew, including leather, ask Wiz where that video of his went -- where he was sewing straps (gun slings?) on a National machine... took almost as long as typing this (but not quite). I have a pedestal machine, that i WOULD run up faster, except the base just isn't sturdy enough. Servo set about 20 or so - for those who know what that means - but when you run it up a bit it isn't stable, even with the stand adjusted most of the way down. Faster it goes, more it rocks... despite way too much time spent leveling, and leveling, and releveling .... FORTUNATELY, if a speed reducer can be added, it can also be removed. I DO understand not wanting to ruin a project you spent 10 hours tooling, but a plain strap of leather is what ... $10? $15?

Oh, I gave the smaller stuff - 138 and down - to some gal up this way, said her 'n' the boyfriend could run it through a consew. I think I do have a couple smaller dies -- never really "took off" around here so they never got used more than a few times. Still have to sort the shed to see what's in there.

Well, it would take a little bit. Without measuring each piece, just going by the number of spools and how full, I'm gonna gues I got about $500 worth of thread ... you know, not counting the needles and accessories

If I was two years younger, I run down that bigger one and snap his neck

Yep, they renewed my site afore I gotta chance to go in cancel, but i figger $100 one way or another .. meh... But I got a bit more than $100 of stuff 'round here, and they tell me I have to pay tax on it AGAIN should I sell it, so ... if it would warm up a bit more I'll go fishin' and not worry about it for a bit?

I closed the business a year ago -- not worth messing around if it isn't making 6-figures. So I'd sell what's here, but not for 50¢ on teh dollar, and not pieced to no end. I haven't "listed" it since, on lw, listing something for sale seems to invite lowballs. One day I should add up what's here. Well, maybe take more than one day ..