JLSleather

Oh, there ya go. When Ron said he had one, I thought maybe there was ANOTHER part I didn't get (but should have). Pay no attention ...

Hmm.. that piece of cobra I ordered didn't include that ...

Drill press. Running at maybe 100 rpm with a 1" diameter burnisher. Nothing pretty about it. But the edges are pretty nice. Particularly handy for belts and straps.

Sometimes leather ppl get too caught up in looking at other leather. May at times be good to look at the ACTUAL THING you're trying to portray. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helianthus#/media/File:Sunflower_sky_backdrop.jpg

Exactly - no point adding to that. I will offer this pic, though, showing exactly that. I took the pic with the HO on both "ends" of the pic, so you wouldn't think the color difference is due to lighting (it isn't). The W/C is TOOLING leather (not the skirting). As you see- the W/C is much more pale color, but they both hold the tooling very well.

The mechanism that regulates that is anything BUT precision instruments.. more of a "bout so much" guess, really - and then even if it was flawlessly "tuned", it would still be reliant on the user moving the lever the right amount. You can use shim stock to limit the travel of the stitch length lever (top shim limits reverse, bottom shim limit forward). Get some scrap and some shim stock and that's not that difficult. Still, it's "set" with a collar on a shaft, so it may move again anyway. OR, if your part allows it - turn the part around and 'backstitch' in forward. OR, for large parts, leave enough thread at the ends, put a harness needle on it and "manual" backstitch a couple with a saddle stitch (the holes are already there). NOT to be misquoted (again) or misconstrued - I don't own that model, but I know a number of people who do and they are ALL happy about their choice. Were I in the market for another machine, I would pick one up myself.

DON'T wheel backwards - not the same as "reverse". Use the lever, or if the size of your project allows it and you're more comfortable, TURN THE PIECE AROUND and then stitch "forward" to "backstitch".

Set "D" -- $140 shipped in US

Actually, that's not "flesh side out" -- that's somebody selling you SPLIT leather (the grain is gone). It's cheaper, so their margin is higher. Each person does his / her own thing - no matter to me - but anybody says he can alter 1/4" of leather by flexing his abs (with weight or without) is WAY 'full of it'. I don't know how a belt would "slide" or "move around" either, long as we're on that. A belt - once tightened - could only possibly move to a part of the body which is SMALLER than where it is put on. So the only person who would have a belt MOVING on them, would be the one whose waist is larger than the area above or below it.

I don't know where these people come from. Everywhere, I guess ... Can you make a pattern for a shoulder holster rig? I make holsters for veterans - can I get a discount on buying ALL your patterns? Can you cut me off just the best part of the hide so I don't have to buy a whole piece?

Somebody point out no price Shipped in US price $125 per set.

Flesh to flesh, leave inside smooth. Bridle grain side to the inside, just buff (no finish needed). The belt in teh pic got 3 light coats of neatsfoot, couple days apart, otherwise no "finish". Each his own.

Let's try that again, minus all the droning. Maybe even have the "for sale" section feature...you know .. stuff that's for sale? B - Makes small CURVED BACK holster. Originally designed P938 Sig, can make holsters of similar size by using appropriate stitch lines. PATTERNS for various guns not included -- that would cost more than the steel! C -- Makes back panel and REINF panel for CURVED BACK 1911 5" and 5" Operator. Accomodate Commander easily with bottom trim, and easily adapted to other pistols of similar size. More to come ... PM if interested, maybe the thread stays cleaner that way.

These are generally a single layer of 13/15 oz, or two layers of 8 oz. MORE than enough. BRIDLE works great, since it wont absorb the sweat. If you want to carve / stamp it, I'd go with an inner layer of bridle and outer layer of tooling leather. And I've made them 6" wide for the CONFUSED when they specifically request that, but it's pointless really, 4" is "normal". Unless the guy is quite tall, I stick to 4" wide. (The guys who REALLY work out will tell you that the belt is for your ABDOMEN, not your back. The width is to SPREAD THE PRESSURE out when your AB MUSCLES FLEX, preventing hernia) IF you go with two layers, be sure to put a bit of curve in when you glue the layers - not flat on the table. Looks nicer, more professional, and most say it's more comfortable to use (inside is smooth). And finally, my PERSONAL preference -- much as I like tooled leather, I think it's easy to OVER DO tooling on these. Less is more. Here's one way, if it helps, have atter ... http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/WB4.pdf

sold

SIX stamping / carving tools, good clean impressions. $35 shipped in US

I haven't had that problem, but fair enough if you 'n' sam did. I was talking about this, not the port ... Bolt's looks good, too, though, so apparently works with or without...

There is no HO thread - HO doesn't make thread No to the sd9, sorry. Dummy guns available as I go through verifying my patterns -- make sure I got everything I'm supposed to. But I won't be selling these 1-0f, be more like sets of 4 or 5 guns ... If they don't sell that way, they store pretty well Haven't seen teh front panel as yet - this is the back piece and reinf panel for a 5". The front is not the same - used for curved holsters, right hand. Orig designed for 1911 but can be used for many 5" bbl. $125 shipped. Walleye net not included.

Back on Jan 30, 7 posts ↑

P938 and similar size, right hand, front and back. Set B, cut 7/8 oz

I don't really care for that "line" put in there -- always thought it looked a bit ... idunno... desperate? But I like the general design I like to just shove the pistol a tad deeper, so that the horiz stitch line is well defined, then mold the trigger guard under the reinf panel (only)and the 'bump' in the frame.

Set A is sold

Cleanin' out good round here. I'm gonna have a BUNCH of blue guns at a FAIR price (not BARGAIN BASEMENT) and a fat girl you can have for the takin'

I didn't post any The pics in teh HO thread were already there, a few posts up- no point reposting them. So far, I have a pair of dies that make those "minimal" wallets on my site - that's a set. And I have a pair that makes a small holster, front and back. Think Sig 938 / Colt Mustang type dealio. And I have a pair that is for a 5" 1911 ... back panel and reinforcement panel. MAY find the front before it's over, but who knows ..