camano ridge

I am with DS, I think it would work better gluing. I use Weldwood. I am not going to discuss which one is better, Barge will work fine to. Basically you need a good contact cement. You would need to scuff the plastic of the tv with some sand paper to get a good surface for the glue to grip. Once you have the pieces cut you would follow the manufactures instructions for the glue, usually applying to both surfaces letting dry then placing the pieces in place and smooth apply pressure with the palm of you hand. Then let cure over night. If you have butted the pieces properly you would take an edge beveler, bevel the edges then burnish using antler or what ever you have for burnishing. I assume you are talking a TV with a screen 40" or larger. The problem you will find is getting exotic pieces long enough. Gator costs about $120.00 per square foot, depending on who you buy from. Full hides will have a lower dollar per square foot price.

The last ones i bought was from River Junction, I would check with them. They need to be covered in leather they don't come that way. Last ones I bought were from River Junction Trade Co. Not cheap http://www.riverjunction.com/search.asp?keyword=spring+clip&Search=Search

With the current coupon it is only $49.99

If you look under the patterns forum you will find a chart made by Jim Simmons I think the title is making belts the easy way. When I do a gun belt for some one out of the area I have them take an existing belt and place it about where they think they would be wearing the gun belt and buckle it till it is comfortable make note of what hole it is buckled into. Then lay the belt flat measure from the end of the buckle to the hole they buckled into. When you make your belt measure from the buckle to the length that they got measuring from the buckle to the hole that was used. This will be placement for your center hole. If you use 7 holes with 1 inch spacing this would give you three inches of adjustment from the center hole up or down. SO 33" would be adjustable from 30" - 36" as an example.

They are plastic snap rivets. Mcmasters and Carr, Fastex and others sell them however your minimum order will be 100. Bluegunstore for 100 at .27 cents per or $27.00 sounds much better then 10 for $10.00

Recieved the storms today, Thank you.

Rohn, you have come a long way. A very nostalgic holster well executed.

As to finnish, I have heard of the Neetsfoot oil rots thread thing. If it is over used with unprotected linen thread it might. However I have used Neetsfoot for over forty years and have never had a problem and there are hundreds of museum specimens made over 100 years ago with good stitching and no doubt have had neetsfoot applied to them. Having said all that neetsfoot oil is not a finish.

For the type of scabbard you are talking about I would go with veg tan leather. Most of mine I do that way. If you line a scabbard with wool or synthetic wool every corner on the gun especially both the front and rear sights are going to grab bits of the materail and you willl have wool lint hanging from the rifle. If you do not use the right suede you may have some problems with the finish on the gun. Any material felt etc is going to wick up moisture. I would reccomend a drain hole in the bottom and use two pieces of veg tanned leather glued together fuzzy side to fuzzy side then treat it as one piece in the construction. THe two scabbards below were built that way and shark trimm added.

Pm sent for both Beretta storms

Katsass, good to hear you are still alive and kicking. It goes without saying you have not lost your touch. Very nice piece of work.

Three ways of doing loops, stitched, woven and semi woven. Woven you punch one slot per cartridge. Rivet one end of the cartridge loop strip in place, bring the strip up through the slot around the cartridge back through the slot pull tight and repeat for the next slot. If I am doing long runs I will put a rivet about every six cartridges. Semi wove is a slot on each each side of the cartridge. You rivet the strip at one end come up the slot over the cartridge down through the next slot pull tight and repeat. What is the problem you are having with the stitching is it spacing or just getting the boss to stitch the loops the way you want? Check with Dwight he uses a Boss and has done cartridge belts. chart or pictorial of the different methods let me know.

I am pretty sure it will work for old or new. I believe on the Super Blackhawk the primary differences are the safety, the old model was recommended to be carried five rounds with hammer over empty cylinder, two screws on the new as opposed to three on the old and some changes around the rear sight.

Bunkhouse Tool Co has a 7.5" Super Blackhawk. I don't remember if it is old or new. I talked to them about it sometime ago. http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/Super-Blackhawk-75-HM940.htm Can't tell from the picture if there are two screws or three screws on the side plate. (3 screws old Mod)

CHris Andres, Slick Bald has a pattern pack that has a pattern and instructions for CFDA compliant rig. He gives instructions for the deflector. He was selling his patterns under makers supply. It seems someone else is now selling his patterns from makers supply web site. http://makersleathersupply.com/product/SBC-MP-WST.html It is part of the Cowboy Master Pack.

I agree with all of the above. The retention comes from friction and I do like to mold in the trigger guard area a little. As to hybrids I make them and you do not want a lot of molding if any in the ejection port area. If you check out the gun molds made by Multimolds (http://multimoldguns.com/) they are made for kydex/hybrid holster makers and the ejection port is filled in as is quite abit of the trigger guard. They don't mold the ejection port.

They work just fine. The primer will not fall out. They are seated (pressed in) during the loading or reloading process of the cartridge. They have to be punched out. I just found a guy on ETSY that sells cut 45 case heads for 40 @ $50.00. I use a decent quality tubing cutter to cut my case heads off.

I have never found .45 conchos. I make my own. I cut the base off the cartridge then epoxy/JB weld the post part of a chicago screw to the inside of the cartridge base.

To add to the above, that is not a setter. It is designed to punch slits into the leather for the prongs of the spot to fit into. You then use a stter or a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the prongs or tines of the spot over.

Looks pretty good, however when I make that pattern I extend the shoulder loop and straps. Stohlman was not a very big person. I find the pattern a little small. I like the holster to be a little further down from my arm pit.

Michael, I believe this is where you want to go. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=subscriptions

There prices seem very cheap. One note their description says oak leather it does not say Herman Oak. Someone could easily be missled.

I am in favor of Chicago screws also. I would recommend that you put a little blue cap Loc tite or clear nail polish on the threads.

Art, was a little direct, however I think the reason is that the OP constantly post tools here asking the same type of questions. Then if you look on his ebay pages at the tools for sale he uses the information that has been given him in the description of the tools and uses the information for pricing. I don't know if that is good or bad as he is simply using us as a reference. We all use the web or books for referencing items we are trying to find information for. In this case he is using us to find the information for him. I guess if that is a problem rather then being surly lets just ignore him and not give him the information he is looking for. However the other edge of that sword is that I thought this was a place we could all come to for information and was not aware that there were rules as to how much information we are allowed to gather. Just food for thought.

Ferg, here is the link that takes you straight to the site without going through pinterest. http://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/how-to-print-pictures-on-woodwaxed-paper-transfer/