camano ridge

Looks great. Any chance we can see the scabbard and the holster together.

Red are you talking actual tape or hot foil transfer? Or are you referring to this thread using tape and alphabet stamps. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55071&hl=%2Bletters+%2Btape#entry353051

What you are looking for is a clicker service. You would need to purchase a die for what you want unless the company or person had a die that fit your needs. Contact Double C on these forums she might be able to help you out. I believe she has a clicker and is trying to expand into a clicker service. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=27490

Looking interesting so far, can't wait to see the finished product.

Tee nuts can be bought a just about any hardware store, if you want black I get mine from Index fasteners http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/t-nuts. As to the screws you can actually get those from Tandy., as well as Index fasteners and other places. Tandy calls them concho adapters https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/11383-00.aspx

The baking soda bath is a neutralizing agent. The roon is acidic adding the baking soda bath (baking soda is a base or alkaline) adding the soda will bring the Ph closer to neutral. It will assist in reducing the odor. The important thing is that you not overdue the soda as you will move to far up the Ph scale and have the possibility of damaging the leather.

Don't add the baking soda to the roon. It should be a mix of baking soda and water I use about a tablespoon of baking soda to 1 quart of water, dip in roon let sit about 5 minutes then dip in baking soda mix no more then 30 seconds( 30 seconds is what I use, other people have their own time frame) rinse.

It usually takes a minimum of two weeks to mature, I usually like to wait 4 weeks before I disturb it. Most all of the metal should be dissolved. You may have a bit of sludge to be filtered off. The color can range from putrid gray/brown to brown to blackish. The true test is to dip a piece of scrap in the roon (you should see a color change, anywhere from gray/gray blue, to black),pull it out, wait about 5 minutes then do a quick dip in soda bath rinse and let sit. After it has started to dry a bit oil it good. If it has not already turned black the oil should bring up a nice black. Check and see how the odor level is.

If you are talking 1912 style holster this might help. PM me with your email address and I will email it to you so you can have it printed full size.

Vinigeroon is not a dye it is a chemical reaction so there will be no rub off or color transfer. My color with vinigeroon is consistent. Some pieces of leather take vinigeroon differently. If you are determined to use dye then I would go with Feibings oil dye. It will need to be rubbed out to remove loose pigment to help limit color transfer. USMC black you will rub forever and may still get some color transfer.

That's a good looking out fit. Wheres the tactical light?

There are a couple on ebay for sale right now. Do a search for Tiger leather stamp. Here is a link to one made by Buckshot leather. I have bought some of his stamps and they are pretty good. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buckshot-Leather-Work-Arbor-Shop-Press-Tool-Boss-Custom-Tiger-Head-Impression-/181786114028?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a534bf7ec

That rig looks great for a first attempt. Nice job.

Actually Jim has a western holster making tutorial pinned on these forums. The first page shows how he uses the strip. I have used the method and it does work. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19338&page=1

Tandy has a pattern pack for motorcycle accessories that has saddle bag patterns https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/62667-00.aspx

JLS very nice looking set, simple and clean but has eye appeal.

The first thing you need to do is start work on your project make one get it critiqued here make it better get ready to sell it, then sell it. Don't waste your time on trying to make people comfortable with it. If they on comfortable buying Roo you are not going to change them. Just advertise the product as made from Kangaroo and extol the virtues of Kangaroo and leave it at that.

Gary, listen to what is being said there are quite a few of us on here that have been making holsters for a long time and make them with every bit as much detail as the picture you show. There are many ways to get that detail. However the basics are that the holster is wetted a gun or dummy gun is inserted into a tight fitting holster the leather is the pressed either by hand or one o several options. As the leather is pressed against the holster i takes on shapes lines and indentations of the gun. As the process proceeds those lines are more clearly defined on the out side of the holster by boning and other means. To press the leather some people use just there hands it takes time and effort then detail the lines with boning and modeling tools. Some people using vacuum forming. Basically the gun is inserted into a wet holster the gun and holster are into a vacuum bag then the air is sucked out drawing the bag tight around the leather forming it to the gun. Once it has been formed and set a while then the final detailing is done by boning etc. You can also use a hydraulic press, pressing the holster and gun mold between two layers of firm rubber, this will also form the detail then final detailing is done. I do not know anyone that actually has an exterior mold of a gun that is pressed against the out side of the holster to get the detail. There are several youtube videos that show the process of detail molding a holster. You can find many examples on this forum that have every bit as much detail as they show in the picture you posted.

Without seeing pictures and having seen some of the welding aprons at harbor freight I am going to say most likely they are chrome tanned. Is it sueded on both side or is there a smooth side? Take a small pice gett it wet and shape it any way you want. Let it dry and see if it stiffens up and holds it's shape, if it does it is probably veg tanned.

Grizzly, on drum dyed take a coarse rag and rub vigorously along your stitch line. This will remove most of any loose pigment. Then I do like Dwight I use a couple more feet of thread then I will need, knowing that the first couple of feet will be waist.

Matt, got my sample today, just a couple days after I requested it. That was quick. Thread looks great.

You will need an diamond awl for making stitch holes, away to mark your stitch holes such as pricking irons or overstitch wheel. Why a rubber mallet. If you are using it to strike the oblong punch or set rivets, I would recommend a dead blow hammer, Rawhide or poly maul or mallet. Rubber mallet will have to much bounce. Go to the pattern forum and look for the flipflop tutorial, It will give you a good bases for making your sandals. Found the tutorial here it is. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=62573

I like Dwight and others use Weldwood contact cement exclusively. As has been said before once it is no longer tacky stick the two pieces together press. Now walk away and let cure for several hours. Like Dwight said it will pull apart but you are going to have to work at it because will be tearing leather not separating the glue. If you are easily separating the two pieces something is wrong. Are you using the Red Label (flammable) or the water based green label? TheKaptin, Like Halitech said it is generally best practice to glue and stitch, however I have made some things with glue only because of their application, Including a couple of straps. Those straps have never separated. Take a couple pieces of scrap glue them together with the weld wood. Then over a week or so bend flex what ever you want to do to the leather and see if it does what you want it to.

I truly think that the wrinkles are from the leather that was used. You can get that type of wrinkling from belly and neck leather. When I do holster I use shoulder or back. You will get a very stiff holster and less likely hood of wrinkling to the extent you are showing there.

Overall it looks like you did pretty good work. It may be the picture but the are between the grip and top of holster looks a little tight for getting your fingers in for a good grip, again it might just be the angle of the picture. As to the wrinkles, 2 questions. Is it Tandy leather? What part of the side or shoulder did you cut it from? it looks like it may be belly or neck.