camano ridge

Rickybobby is this for duty carry on a duty belt or concealed carry? If he wants it for concealed carry does he want it open topped or just a retention strap instead of a full flap like on a duty version?

Cheryl, thanks for posting that picture. After my original post and Treed had said he thought that it was Robert Beards Ram curl. I tried for quite a while to get a hold of Robert. I finally got a hold of him a couple of weeks ago and ordered the Rams curl and another stamp. However after you posted the picture I called to Robert to verify what I was getting. Found out that the picture you posted is definitely the Rams Curl. The one that I posted is actually what he calls a scrolled 9. So now it looks like I am getting three stamps from Robert Beard.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions. I have both inkscape and GIMP did not realize they will do water marks. However I tried http://freewatermarksoftware.com/ This is great it is free and easy I di 20 pictures in less then 5 minutes. You just select the pictures you want to water mark (you can do them in a batch or select a whole folder. choose image or text water mark, if it is text water mark type in your text select color then click water mark . Select where you want to save the pictures and your done. Thanks for the suggestion gmace99.

Is there a program or something that will aid in putting a water mark on your digital photos? If you use water marks how do you do it?

Great work as usual Josh.

IT's like a copper rivet and burr. There is a stud on the back side a burr is seated down the stud against the leather then the end of the stud is peened. hard wood to hol

Looks like hard water, I have had the same experience. Use distilled water like stated above, it is cheap.

If anyone knows were I can get some T Rex teeth for a knife handle to go with my Dino sheath, let me know. JREESER1, you are using the wrong materials. Stone tools work best on Dino leather.

Very nice looking holsters George.

Go back a page to post 135 the link is there.

A picture would help.

I do the same a Chief and JLS, I have never had one come off. Doing with just the screws you don't have to worry about glue squeeze out onto your belt. Tandy has bags of 10 belt tip screws . I always keep a bag or two around because of my nimble fingers. THe belt tip in the picture is just screwed in place, I do put a little loc-tite on the threads. The tip is solid and is not going to come off.

Nice holsters. Rohn, you r lacing is looking good.

Buckeyeguy. You don't have to put the awl through all three layers at one time. for instance if you are doing a sheath. lay out your stitch line or groove, mark your holes and punchy your holes in the front of the sheath. now glue the welt and back of sheath in place insert the awl in the holes on the front of the sheath and poke through the other two layers. If you int end to use a drill press. I have a bench top drill press I bought at a garage sale for cheap, it is unpluged, I have a awl blade chucked in it and a piece of leather glued on the drill press table to that my project does not lay on the metal when poking holes. I put another loose piece of leather between the the table and the project when I punch my hole the tip of the awl goes into the loose piece of leather. I end up with a clean hole and no pucker around the exit hole.

dacotawolf Index fastners have the screws and finish washers as well as many other things you may find interesting. http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/category/fasteners

I like the look of that one.

Whoops, sorry missed the picture with the welt.

Sven,I make dangler sheaths and have never had the ring wear through the leather. I would be more concerned about the strength of the used. However since you said it is not going to be used much it should be alright. I would just get some heavier rings or D rings for the next one. You did not ask for a critique, however since it sounds like you might try to make more I thought I would offer some advise. It looks like the leather might have been to wet when you stamped it. If you properly case your leather you will get a sharper impression that will not fade on you. There are several threads on here about casing leather. I can nnot see from this picture if there is a welt. On any sheath that is going to see use I would use a welt. Welt is a strip that lay in between the front and the back of the sheath along the main seam. This will give the sheath some added stiffness and protect the stitches. If there is no welt the blade will eventually find it's way to the thread and over time may cut your stitches. On the belt loop it self you might want to round off the end a little bit more, it will give it a more finished look. Overall a pretty nice first attempt.

Here is a variety of tassel caps also found on etsy https://www.etsy.com/market/tassel_cap

I have seen several people in the past looking for Zulu and Nato hardware. I am going to put a plug in here for The Buckle Guy, he now has Zulu hardware and says he will be carrying Nato hardware in the future. http://www.buckleguy.com/zulu-watch-hardware/?utm_source=Email+List&utm_campaign=d350e81f08-Zulu_Strap_Hardware_5_12_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_ea94885249-d350e81f08-330469933&mc_cid=d350e81f08&mc_eid=24624fde2c

Josh, as always very nice work.

Cipher, Tinker did a good job of covering things however I will add my two cents worth, we all have are own set of experiences. I am definitely in agreement with the diamond awl. The scratch awl (round) can come in handy for some jobs, marking lines etc. I have both a set of individual punches and a quality rotary punch. When you are making a lot of holes along the edge of a project you will appreciate the convenience of the rotary punch. When you are punching through some really thick leather a hammer driven punch will work better. Also when you have to punch holes more then about an 1 1/2" from the edge you will need the individual punch as the throat on the rotary punch will not be deep enough. We all have are preferred method of laying out and marking holes for stitching Nigels video primarily shows using pricking irons for marking holes. It works great for those who want to go that way especially if you want the kind of slanted stitch appearance. I have always used a overstitch wheel. I lay out my stitch groove then select the wheel I want to use based on the number of stitches per inch I want. Then I run the wheel in the groove marking my stitches. You will not get the slanted stitch look with this method , the stitch line will be straight. FOr knives there are many options however I think for starting out a good utility knife with replaceable blades is the best way to go. Many experienced people still use a utility knife. Rotary knives work well on long straight cuts not so well on sharper curves.

Check out Buffalo Brothers Cowboy store, i believe they have those or at least ones very similar. http://buffalobrothers.net/epages/6e0660d3-c48c-462c-bcf4-e93d79a29461.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/6e0660d3-c48c-462c-bcf4-e93d79a29461/Categories/On_Line_Store/4

I have occasional poked a hole where it should not be. I use a diamond awl and find after a while a considerable amount of the hole heals up. I take the tip of my awl handle (which is round) and kind of push and rub the hole ares this also helps close the hole. dye it the rub a little bees was into the hole If any hole is still apparent. Doing all of this it should pretty much disappear.

ZIp code shown is for Winona Minnesota