camano ridge

I have an order for a holster and the customer wants black Ostrich inlay. Anyone know where I can buy Small pieces. I need about 6" by 6" would buy up to a square foot and willing to pay per sq ft market price just don't want to buy a whole hide for 3-400.00. Need Ostrich skin with folicles not leg skin. Springfield does not cut ostrich they sell only whole skins. They do have an ostrich scrap bag but can't guarantee there is anything big enough.

I agree pretty much with everything that MikeG said. If all you want is acamera case go buy one. If you make it yourself it will cost you two to three times the cost of one in your time tools and materials. On the other hand if you want the satisfaction of making it yourself and cost is secondary then go for it. Do all the things Mike said. You also might want to get some cheap vinyl or vinyl remanents (you may be able to check with an upholstery shop for some remanents) and make your first on out of the vinyl. This will give you a feel for how to do it and not wate leather.

Since it has already been dyed you may not get the results you want from vinegaroon. Oil and finishes may block the vinegaroon. Vinegaroon is not a dye it does a chemical change to the leather. For a ton of information on vinegaroon and other old time dyes check out cascity.co leather shop forum find the how to and locate the old time dye thread.

Cave here are a couple of examples of my mock holsters and the finished product. It helps me especially when I am making my own pattern for a hoster style I have not made before. Almost always the final holster comes out a little diferent then the mock up because I find things to adjust and refine. making a mock up helps me adjust belt slots, fit, overall appearance before I make those mistakes in leather. I keep a pice of belt strap around that I can slide through the belt slots to give me an idea of fit and cant. It only take about a half hour to build a mock up and can save hours on a holster you may end up throwing in the scrap box.

Cave here are a couple of examples of my mock holsters and the finished product. It helps me especially when I am making my own pattern for a hoster style I have not made before. Almost always the final holster comes out a little diferent then the mock up because I find things to adjust and refine. It only take about a half hour to build a mock up and can save hours on a holster you may end up throwing in the scrap box.

Ok, it's unanomous you wasted your time makinng the brown one. Seriously they are both nice and very clever idea.

Cave, I think you are on the right track now. Get some manila file folders many people use them for drawing patterns. I also use them to make file folder versions of my holsters. Instead of stitches I use a stpler on the file folder cutout to seal my seams I then put the gun in the paper holster. You can make a couple of versions with the belt slots in different locations. You will actually get a feel for the balance of the holster and be able to make adjustments. There are peolple that frequent this forum that only do flat back holsters, there is nothing wrong with that. Which ever way you do it the importatnt thing is a tight stitch line. If properly molded (does not have to be extreme detail molding to be properly molded) and a good tight stitch line you should not have a problem with your holster loosening up. I know you said you were working on burnishing the edges. You may have already figured this out after the first one. Burnish the edges of the holster mouth and toe before assembling then once it is stitched burnish the main seams. As to the belt one cheaper and easier way to try out a good belt is Old Faithful Holsters. They have a belt kit double stitched (stitching already done) comes with hardware including a roller belt buckle. You dye it and put on the hardware. cost is about 39.00 for the kit. If you go to Tandy a single layer belt strip without nuckle is almost 20.00.

I used to use the paper plate and it works great. However Joyce at Blackriver laser has the templates for hand stitching and for machine stitching in I thhink three deifferent belt sizes. Lay the template on the belt use a scratch awl to mark the stitch holes for hand sewing and get to stitching.

Cave there is know ignorance you are folowing the path we all folowed trying out holster making and learning from are experience. I was trying to be gentle, Dwight was more to the point. I think Katsass will probably be offering you some sage advice as well. We are not hammering what you did only trying to help you improve it. More leather wrapped around the holster does give a more secure holster. There is nothing wrong with a high ride holster, however there is such thing as too high of a ride. The picture makes it look like the bottom of the belt slot is only about 1/2 to 3/4" higher then the muzzle that puts alot of gun above the belt loop. you said the holster fits tight however you also said you get bounce, that is probably because the gun rides too high. So yes bringing your belt slots up a little and extending the holster as Dwight pointed out should help stabilize the holster considerably and if you have a good foundation ie a good belt then you should end up just about rock solid.

Cave, here is a picture more or less depicting what I ma talking about. It is primarily form and not so much function although I believe it adds a little bit more stability. Again it is just my persaonal preferenc I am sharing with you not telling you it is the way you have to do it.

First off I believe that the foundation for a good carry system is the belt. If you don't have a good belt that fits the holster well you will not have a good carry system. That can lead to some of the problems you described regardless of how good the holster is. The belt should be of heavy leather not belly. I do most of my belts double thickness equaling close to a quarte inch total thickness. I cut my belts from backs. Over all the design of you holster does not look to bad. Personal preference I would have brought the front of the holster up just a little and put a down ward curve or arc toward the trigger guard. The overall appearance of the holster would be greatly improved by burnishing your edges and the belt slots.

TX so you don't go off in a snit I do agree with you. Lightingale if you don't have the equipment for silver soldering use JB weld. You can pick it up in almost any hardware section or auto parts store about $4-5.00. Scratch the metal surface of the chicago screw and the the suface you are gluing to. Mix the JB weld and apply per dirctions. Hold for a few moments scrape away access let cure and you shoould be good to go. JB weld will hold it is used to repair cracks in engine blocks. You may have to heat up the pin with a soldering iron to remove the pin, some times you can take a pair of pliers and give a good twist to break the pin free from the solder.

Yes, I know there can be subtle differences. That's why I was asking. I have been there and done that also. I was trying to find a S&W 1911TA dummy gun, however I have not found one yet so was trying to find a suitable substitution. I htink it was Cjiefjason that just made one for a kimber that would not fit a different 1911.

I have an order for a holster for a S&W 1911TA (Railed) Trying to determine if a 1911 springfield Operator or colt 1911 railed will work as a holster mold. I have both and apear to be pretty much identical and seem to match a picture of the S&W 1911 TA. However I know there can sometimes be quirky little differences in 1911 models. Just wanted to see if anybody knew if the holster molds I have would work.

Michael, those were my exact thoughts when I seen Mikes comments.

Rooster, how long are you leaving the holster in the press? NOt saying that you do it, however I know some people put a holster in the press for just a few minutes and take it out. The problem is that it is usually just as wet as when it went into the press. If it is that wet it usually does not take the detail or hold it that long. Even with kydex when you mold a holster you have to let the kydex cool enough to hold the form and detail. With leather I used to leave it in the press for 20 to 30 minutes minimum. Then take it out and bone it let it dry some more and bone it some more. Now I use vaccumm. Alot of people I know have started out with the press then switched to vacumm. The nice thing about vacumm is that you can do some of the molding right through the bag while it is being vacumm formed.

The sine wave pattern as it is refered to in this thread is commonly refered to as the gunfighter stitch or fish tail stitch. Black River Laser has the template for both hand sewing and machine stitching.

Ok, got it. I did find that purse on my own. So far the only thing close is crossed pistol rhinestone iron on .

Do you have a picture of what you are looking for - a purse with them on it?

Mike, thank you. I appriciate your compliment.

Here is one that does say it is Veg tanned hand oiled. http://www.schottnyc.com/products/length/waist/12.htm?color=2 How ever looking at it if it is I am sure it is more in the 1-2 oz. I have some 3-4 oz and I don't think it could ever be oiled enough to be as supple as that jacket looks.

Roy, I don't think anyone will coomplain. There are people on here with thousands of posts. Everyone has something to contribute and most are more then happy to accept anyone sharing patterns. Thank you again for sharing.

Roy, great pattern, it can easily be redrawn to fit almost any pistol. Thank you for sharing.

Roy, it is nice to see you here. I have run into your patterns from time to time in various places. I have used a few of them. I woulod like to thank you for your work and sharing your patterns.

Here is something a little different. A Customer wanted a Baldric (shoulder belt) and holster for a Traditions Trapper .50 Cal flint lock. It is a big pistol 15.5" weighing about 3pounds. He wanted it to look more Mountain man or Frontiersman like, he did not want it to look like a pirate baldric. and wanted it to have the spirit of late 1700s early 1800's. He wanted it to cover the frizzen and the flint, with a little bit of the barrel sticking out of the toe. He also decided he wanted a retention/safety strap, however it had to be in keeping with the general appearance so no snaps. I had to think of what an enterprisinbg mountainman or frontiersman might have availble to use. Here is what i came up with.