camano ridge

Not sure what you mean by leather proof? It would be permanent. If glued correctly the first time you would have a heck of a time pulling it apart after the repair has cured. I have used shoe goo in the past a long time ago for a repair. It is rubbery and will have more squeeze out to clean up. There is a reason they call it Goo. It may work, However after doing leatherwork for forty years I prefer to use the super glue type adhesives for the type of repair you wish to do. This is the type of application I use the locktite glue for. The chess knight is cut out of leather and painted with acrylic. I did not want any stitching showing so I used the super glue.It will not come off it is on there very permanently and is waterproof.

Any of the CA glues (Cyanoacrylate) will work for that type of repair. I use it quite a bit whan I want to adhere something to leather and want a permanent bond. I prefer the Locktite brand super glue.

Nice find right now apparently it is out of print if you check ebay and Amazon it is going for over a hundred.

There is one in Leather crafters and Saddlers journal Mar/Apr 1996. If you don't have access to it let me know.

Cross draw or strong side or does it matter I will dig through my stuff. I know I have a couple. PM me with you email address if you like. Scott

Mike I quarantee your absence did not go unoticed. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49861

Winter bear is right Leather Machine company is in California, I have been to there facility and met Steve. Matchlock, they are great people to deal with, Steve Tayrien (aka Cobra Steve) will go out of his way to talk you through steps to get your machine operating the way you want it if you are having problems. The Cobra 4 is a great machine.

Try Camplbell Randal Leather machine Company. They have glove snap $3.00 for 10 pack assorted colors, Solid Brass double cap rivets assorted quantities. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=43_47&page=2

You can use a set of wing dividers or even a kids drawing compass. On dapmp leather you will be able to creat a depressinon for the thread to lye in without cutting into the leather, it is also an easy way to lay out your stitching line.

Your competing with Tandy right now they have new for $175.00 if you have an Elite account.

Mike welcome back to the forums. We have missed your witt and wisdom. Hope you are doing well. Scott

You don't say what style you are making. If it is something like the one below simply make your flap that you will use as the belt loop or skirt overly long. Select where you want to make the fold and the angle that you want the fold. Wet the area of the fold bend the flap behind the holster adjust to correct agle now trim the flap and fasten to holster via loop or adjustable strap or however you want. If you need more help or this is not clear PM me. Scott

If you don't have it yet here is a link to the blugun store http://www.bluegunstore.com/

I did a google search for tricorn hat pattern and found several including one titled tricorn hat Jack Sparrow. http://homemadeplayforkids.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-make-jack-sparrows-tricorn.html this one is for a kid however all you need is a bigger bowl to shape the hat and a bigger piece of leather.

Rob at the Blue gun store has gone through this process and sells them for $39.99 (for most of them). The thought is good and more power to you if you can pull it off. However if you plan on charging $35.00 which includes shipping. You may find that by the time you collect the boxes buy the tape and take your time to box and ship 50 - 55 blue guns and flat rate priority mail small box is $5.60. Your 4 guns you want to buy may cost you a lot more then $30.00.

There are many products out there that will work and as many opinions as to what is the best. I personaly like Montana Pitch Blend or Skidmores Cream both are natural products using Bees Wax natuaral oils and Montana Pitch blend uses pitch in it's blend. Both of these will put nutrients back int the leather of your holster. They will both help the leather be water resistant. Skidmores has one blend that is called leather waterproofing and is primarily Beeswax I have not tried it although I regularly use the skidmores cream and found that it defenitaley makes the leather water resistant (I have not tried prelonged imersion).

Staples, Office Depot and yes even Tandy sells transparency film for ink jets. I have used the Tandy film and it works fine. After printing the image give the ink some time to set before tracing.

Joyce seems to know what she is doing, she has made templates for me from penciled drawings that I have scanned and emailed her. They turned out exactly as I wanted them.

I have bought several of their templates and Joyce has made one custom template for me. I have a couple more I am going to see about having her make. The customer service and communications are excellent.

9mm Width - .9" Length - 1.309" Height - (G17 = 4.4") (G19 = 3.9") (G26 = 3") hope this helps

PM sent

I would try deglazing to remove the Wyo sheen then re dye.

I have never found actual copper chicago screws. However knifekits.com has aluminum copper anodised chicago screws http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=3726. and chicagoscrews.com has what they call bronze chicago screws that are close to copper color.

To some extent it is personal preference it also depends on the knife type and the use you are making it for. Do you use a welt? Do you wet mold? What thickness of leather are you using?

They are actually pretty easy to make just takes a little work. You can make them in several ways and for me it just depends on what i am going to do with them. The first step is to collect some spent brass cartridges. Decide if you are going to keep the spent primer in place or remove it. To remove the spent primer (if you have reloading equipment you have what you need) if you don't have reloading equipment use a small pin punch insert through the primer hole on the inside of the case and knock the spent primer out. WARNING DO NOT DO THIS ON A LIVE PRIMER. Next step is to cut the case end off. Decide how long you want the case end then cut it off using a metal cutting band saw or hack saw. The cartridge end in the picture was cut off this morning using a copper tubing cutter it took a couple of minutes but worked pretty well and left a fairly smooth edge.If you use a saw you will have to sand the edges to smooth them out. Once you have cut it you can epoxy a rivet into the inside of the case end or even sand or grind a chicago screw head to a diameter that will fit inside the case end then epoxy it into place. The ones in the knife handle the primer was removed and the primer hole was drilled out to 1/8" a 1/16th" rivet with a 3/16" rivet was inserted through the hole (used 7/16" long brass tubular rivets). You can also drill out the primer hole to accept small machine screws as pictured in the third picture. Hope this helps, if you need more detailed info or have other questions feel free to PM me.